Checking Codes - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2003, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Checking Codes

First time poster here.

Last week i bought a 94 Cougar with the 4.6 V8 in it. Runs really strong except for that tonight the Check Engine light came on. I consulted my Haynes manual on how to read it but it really wasnt much of a help. It said something about a connector in front of the left strut tower but i couldnt find anything there. Spent about an hour looking.

Can you guys help me out any? Sorry this has probably been asked about a 1000 times, but i couldnt find any of those threads.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-30-2003, 10:30 PM
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Passenger side of the car, under the dash is the port to read the codes.

Need a code scanner to read it. Autozone scans free, but their advice from what I understand isnt always 100% accurate.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2003, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Thanks,
I have a mechanic buddy he might let me borrow his.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2003, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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I read the codes on my car. Got a p1124, p1780, and a p1101. I looked in the tech article section but i could only find the codes for the EEC IV and the OBD II cars. What about us guys with the EEC V and no OBD II? I think the only code that really matters is the one abot the MAF, so how hard is it to replace those and how expensive are they?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2003, 12:50 PM
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if there's something coming up with the MAF then clean it.
do a search and you'll find this several times
If you do need a new maf they are bolted to the airbox cover and have 3 bolts , a wire connector and a hose clamp holding them in.
MAF's could be cheap because if you want a stock one, im sure plenty people have them lying around.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-02-2003, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice man. I searched around and found an article. As soon as i get some of the proper tools to remove that piece i will clean it. Why did they use the tamper proof torques anyway?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2003, 11:18 AM
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To make sure you dont tamper with it :P
But some people just drill the tamper-proof part out and use a standard torx too, so whatever.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2003, 02:57 PM
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P1101 - Mass Air Flow Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1124 - TPS Out Of Self Test Range
P1780 - Transmission Control Switch circuit is out of Self-Test Range.
http://redpulsar.us/~coldfusion/eecv.html

as far as what the mean, sorry, I dont want to start telling people what I dont know. I would say to maybe clean the MAF since you did get a MAF code.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2003, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah i finally got the bit that i needed. Removed the MAF sensor, it was pretty crusty so i hosed it off with some electrical parts cleaner. After that i cleaned up the electrical connectors and applyed some dielectric grease. The codes were cleared and then we ran the self test, and got the same three codes back. So maybe the MAF has just gone bad. Anyone have one that they know for sure that is good and would want to get rid of it?

My other question is on the TPS. What should i set the voltage at on this thing? Are there any articles on this out there on the net?

One last question. Where can you get replacement door hinges at? My drivers side door hinge is all but shot so i really need another one, and my local PepBoys doesnt carry them. Could i get this from a Ford dealer?

Finally thanks for all the help guys.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-03-2003, 06:40 PM
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Um, lets see
I believe tps is .95 V and the hinges are available lots of places
get the ones for an F-150, they're the right ones. 2 parts stores here have them and they say Help! on the package, red package.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-05-2003, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks i will have to check in on that. Hopefully Napa will carry them.
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