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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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Steeda Underdrives

Woohoo! Finally got a set of Steeda's for da bird. No piggyback here, and for $70 shipped! I have searched, and just wanted to be clear on this, so don't hang a guy for asking.

I know that I need to put silicone sealer on the keyway for the crank or it will leak.

The question I have is I was talking w/ a local performance shop that I freqently use, and the guy also happened to own a nice semi-built 95 a while back. He said that he recommneds getting an aluminum/steel sleeve that fits over the crank pulley where it slides into the front seal. Mentioned that after he installed his, that the U/D slowly cut into/wore out the front seal and it developed an oil leak. Is this true, or did he just mess up on the install?

Also, can you use the stock crank bolt for the u/d pulley? I'm not sure if I have the long one to set it into the crank with or anything like that, so I was just going to use the orig. crank bolt to pull the pulley back onto the crank and torque to spec. Good? Bad?

Thanks in advance- Jay

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 12:43 PM
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Personally, I like to use a new timing cover seal as well as a new crank bolt with the install of underdrive pullies. You need the longer crank bolt that comes with the Steeda kit to 'start' the pulley on it's way home and then remove it and use the Ford bolt. I have never had a problem them leaking without adding a sleeve.

-Scott
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 12:59 PM
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good info......
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I didn't think I needed the sleeve. Sounds kinda b.s. to me. And as far as the long bolt is concerned, if I don't have it, would it be possible to just get one from a hardware store that would have the correct threads for that?

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 01:25 PM
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Yes, Just make sure the thread pitch is 1.50 and don't forget to use the big fat washer when you start to seat the pulley with the big bolt.

Good luck,
-Scott
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 03:39 PM
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I had those on my car. Be sure you put silicone all the way around the washer as well!!!!! Not just the keyway. Or IT WILL LEAK. I had to do mine 2 times before I figured out i better put it all the way around the washer head. Chris

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CobraRThunder
I had those on my car. Be sure you put silicone all the way around the washer as well!!!!! Not just the keyway. Or IT WILL LEAK. I had to do mine 2 times before I figured out i better put it all the way around the washer head. Chris
Weird.. i've installed my steeda harmonic dampener twice, and only put the silicone on the keyway both times without any problems...

Might depend on the silicone as well....

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 04:53 PM
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So where is the best place to get these?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-12-2003, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 96Sprintz
So where is the best place to get these?

Search around...somtimes ebay is a good place to get a deal... if you do ebay, make sure you can verify them as actual Steeda's...

NSN Motorsports
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"Fordless" - But I do have alot of Mercon V laying around...
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Parts ---> Dan Newman - Town & Country Ford - 800-847-2047
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-13-2003, 10:38 AM
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i got set for my car off ebay. i believe the place i go thtem from was mustang depot. im pretty sure they have an ebay store so that would save you from any chance of getting ripped off.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-13-2003, 10:48 AM
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me and my friend got a pulley off his engine hes rebulding....the crank pulley.......it was crazy hard to get off....i pried it off with a thick crowbar witch i ended up bending.....there is an easy way but we never found out......whats the way to take off the crank pulley?

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-13-2003, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by JoeyICU
me and my friend got a pulley off his engine hes rebulding....the crank pulley.......it was crazy hard to get off....i pried it off with a thick crowbar witch i ended up bending.....there is an easy way but we never found out......whats the way to take off the crank pulley?
the easy way is to use a crank puley (harmonic balancer) puller.

Frank

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-13-2003, 11:30 AM
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thats what i thought......but it didnt seem like it would work....i looked at the tool and ye.....but i guess it would work......but we didnt have one so i did it the hard way....those things take alot of force to get off

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-13-2003, 11:49 AM
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One more thing to think about. On the DOHC motors, the crank bolt is torque-to-yield, meaning it's a one use bolt. If you remove it, you replace it. Not sure if the SOHC engines are the same. Just check to be sure.

Brian B.
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