Help! Can A/C pulley bearing be replaced? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-09-2004, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Help! Can A/C pulley bearing be replaced?

Hey guys I did a search and could not find details on the ac pulley bearing. Mine is toast. Do I need to replace the whole compressor or can I just replace the pulley bearing?

Either case how difficult are these two jobs?

I need to get the car repaired tomorrow. So I am trying to figure out what I need to do.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-09-2004, 11:49 PM
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You can replace just the clutch by itself. They aren't very expensive
(50-75 bucks as I recall) and less the 1 hour to do.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2004, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you. Do I need any special tools, pullers, etc?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2004, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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I looked into the part. The parts store sells the pully with the clutch and electro-magnet $169.00. My compressor is toast. Does anyone sell just the pulley?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2004, 07:53 PM
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Click here and see if that's what you're looking for. It's a part listing from Advance Auto Parts. According to Yahoo Yellow Pages, there's one in Sterling, VA.

Edit added store name.

Last edited by IronChopz; 01-11-2004 at 12:00 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2004, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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That's it exactly. Thank you!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-02-2004, 06:07 PM
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I know it's been a while since this has been active, but can this bearing be put in without a press, I'm debating weather or not to buy the bearing by itself (and install it by myself), or to buy the pulley, and bearing assembly,
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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The bearing needs to be pressed in. I would not attempt it unless I had the correct press, etc. Otherwise, you run the risk of warping the pulley. Do yourself a favor and get a clip removal tool. There is not much room to work down there.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 01:23 PM
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I hate to hijack a thread, but could you tell me how tough it is to self-install a new compressor, accumulator/drier and liquid line? (all from ackits.com of course)
I am sick of forking over money to shops for things I may be able to do myself. They say my liquid line is restricted and my compressor is on its way out. I have no cold a/c after charging with r134a. Thanks in advance for your expertise, and I apologize again for hijacking.....

Later,

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 02:26 PM
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Man, I'm just following you all around today.

You will need the line separator tools like the ones used for the fuel filter. The zone has a plastic set for less than $10. The compressor itself is held on with 4 bolts. They are fairly easy to get at. You can do all the replacements. Then pull a vacuum on it to rid the system of moisture. Then recharge.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 02:34 PM
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Thanks a lot, girdnerg. What about the process? Simple disconnect, swap and re-bolt of all mentioned new parts? (Accumulator/drier, liquid line and compressor) What are the line separators for? Forgive my lack of knowledge. I am a bit green when it comes to HVAC. Thanks a lot for your help.....

Later,

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Removed Resonator & Air Silencer
K&N Cone (RAM setup)
Tint 15% rear & corners, 35% sides
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 03:08 PM
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The tool is to separate the lines at each connection. Just the way Ford made them I guess. An easy example is to look where your fuel lines meet the fuel rail. The connector is round and may even have a safety clip over it also. Ford didn't want this stuff coming apart accidentally.

Process is staight-forward like you said.

Make sure to relieve the system pressure first.
Remove and replace parts.
Have a vacuum pulled on the system to remove moisture and check for leaks.
Recharge with 134.

I would get a second opinion on the AC problem before you go replacing hundreds of dollars worth of parts. Might be something simple.

Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-18-2004, 03:20 PM
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Rob, your advice is invaluable. One other question: How hard is it to remove then replace the belt from the compressor/clutch? I am assuming that it needs to come off and then put back on?

Later,

Joshua

1994 3.8 na
Flowmaster 50's- True Dual
Removed Resonator & Air Silencer
K&N Cone (RAM setup)
Tint 15% rear & corners, 35% sides
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