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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-16-2004, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Underdrive Pulleys

Will these work on my car? Whats the difference between aluminum ones and steel ones.. which is better?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-16-2004, 08:09 AM
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http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/underdrive46.htm

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You want these. Your link was for 5.0L pullies.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-16-2004, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, thanks.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-16-2004, 09:37 AM
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I will probably have a set of those available, too...

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-16-2004, 12:21 PM
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What is the differences between GT & bullet pulleys?

J-Mod, MMC D/S, 24k gvw Tranny Cooler, Mark VIII TC,13” KVR Frt brakes, FRPP 3.73 rear, PI cams & Intake plus P&P NPI heads with the cooling mod, 1 3/8" Rr swaybar.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-16-2004, 06:43 PM
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Check ebay!

I sniped my MARCH pullies for less than $50 shiped.

K&N FIPK73mm C&L MAF*22C plugs*FRPP 9mm wires*MARCH Performance Pullies*Sprint springs*Cat-back Flowmaster exhaust
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by T-bird_fan
What is the differences between GT & bullet pulleys?
I found some specific information for you off the Bullitt owners website...

Bullitt water pulley 5.5 GT 5.0
Bullitt alternator pulley 2.50 GT 2.25
Bullitt crank pulley 6.75 GT 6.75

http://www.imboc.com/phpBB/viewtopic...ic=508&forum=2

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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One more thing.. do they come with the belt? If not, where do I get it?

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 09:02 PM
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Underdrive pullies do not require a different belt. You just use the stock belt, it'll be fine...

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 09:32 PM
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When you do the job check the belt for cracks. If they exist replace it.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 09:47 PM
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There will be cracks in the belt as all of them are designed to crack some sooner rather than later, except the "Gatorback' which has those diagonal sipes to relieve some stress when the belt gets bent backward on some pulleys... I am trying one on my blower drive and it does seem superior.....
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 09:53 PM
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Ah, excessive cracks.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 09:53 PM
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I should have said "a" stock belt, rather than "your" stock belt, since I don't know the present condition of your belt. What I meant is the stock belt is the right size...

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
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post #14 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by J.Miller
Ah, excessive cracks.
I suppose now we have to define "excessive?" Would that be 12, or 17, or 32, or 47 cracks???

If your belt hasn't been slipping or does not appear to be particularly decrepit, chances are it will last a bit longer with the new pullies.. it is not likely that they will speed up the demise of your belt.

On the other hand, they are not particularly expensive (especially through Dan Newman), so replacing your belt as a matter of course would satisfy everyone so concerned.

96 GoldBird

'96 T-Bird LX 4.6L Alive & well & living in S. Florida

N/A:
Renegade NPI heads/Comp Cams; OEM intake manifold; Bolt-ons
245 rwhp; 13.713 @ 99.35 (Commerce, GA - November 2003)


BLOWN: Renegade NPI heads; Renegade shortblock; Intercooled T-Trim; some other stuff
Pump Gas Numbers - 547 rwhp / 525 ft.lbs; Best Time - 11.388 @ 118.68 (Commerce, GA - November 2007)
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post #15 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 06:40 AM
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For stock belts:
Minor cracks in the V-ground portion of the belt is considered acceptable. If the belt has chunks missing from the ribs, the belt should be replaced.

Conditions requiring belt replacement:

* rib chunk-gut
* excessive wear
* severe grazing
* frayed cords or similar conditions

Replace any belt exhibiting one of the above conditions.

The above is the standard line. I always replaced my belt when the cracks were numerous and close to the backing. This generally occurs when there are many cracks over every inch of the belt. If the belt goes when you are driving you can not go that far.

Can't a guy get lazy every now and then. Happy???

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Last edited by J.Miller; 01-19-2004 at 06:47 AM.
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post #16 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 07:45 AM
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Another thought, I always change early, carry a 1/2" ratchet and a cheater bar with me and save the old belt as an emergency spare....Learned this after driving 180 mi in the Fla heat on a weekend with no A/C, P/S, and a draining battery on a Sunday afternoon..... LOL
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