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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Water pump removal

I have all the bolts off (4) but it won’t move. I smacked it a few times with a plastic mallet and it is still frozen on. Any ideas of how to break the water pump loose or did I miss a bolt?
Thanks,
Jim

Last edited by DirtyBird46; 05-20-2004 at 04:23 PM.
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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 04:53 PM
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Just keep tapping it up and down and left to right. It will eventually come out.
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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 04:55 PM
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It's probably just the sealant and possibly a bit of corrosion that's keeping it on. Just keep tapping it.
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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 05:17 PM
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I did mine about a year ago, and my word of advise is:

Get a Bigger Hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

They can be a real PITA to get out, and it shouldn't have sealer on it, it has an O-ring that swells over time, and makes it a pretty tight fit, just keep on working at it, and eventually it'll come out.
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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 05:43 PM
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Had the same thin when I did my Mark VIII. I mistook one of the bolts... I think the upper left, there are two within about 1" of each other. Check and make sure you got all water pump bolts and not one or front cover bolts instead.
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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 06:09 PM
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Might be my bad memory, but aren't there 5 bolts?




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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-20-2004, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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No, just 4 bolts. I just got my pump loose. Took about 45min. Thanks for the help!
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post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-25-2009, 10:17 AM
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Waterpump Removal

Hey All,

I was trying to remove my waterpump and I can't seem to get it off. I removed the four bolts from the pully but it still won't budge
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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-25-2009, 11:12 AM
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If you're getting rid of that water pump, then it needs a little persuasion. Between the outside elements and the inner o-ring, it can give some resistance. I gave mine a few raps with a hammer from varying angles on the pulley mount. Nothing too nasty, but it took a bit of time to work loose. A pry bar might also work.

If you're keeping the pump, however, you'll have to be less aggressive. You definitely would NOT want to impact the pulley mount in any way.

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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 11:25 AM
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I still can't get it off, covered it in every single lubricant I have! Getting very frustrated!
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post #11 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 12:17 PM
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If you're going to be replacing the pump with a new unit (no idea why else you'd be removing it, but that's besides the point...), just smash it around with the biggest hammer or mallet you can wield under your hood - you're not going to damage the block. Lubricants are not likely to help a lot.

Get yourself some Hulk Hand gloves and go to town.
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post #12 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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get a 2x4, place it on the top of the pump or on the mounting surface for the pulley and whack it with a big hammer. It wil break the seal and it then should come out. That is how I got mine off.
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post #13 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DirtyBird46 View Post
get a 2x4, place it on the top of the pump or on the mounting surface for the pulley and whack it with a big hammer. It wil break the seal and it then should come out. That is how I got mine off.

Same here 2 big pops and off she went

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post #14 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 07:59 PM
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The water pump is the only engine part I have ever removed with a hammer.

Be careful; some of the stuff you will hit if you miss with the hammer is hard to replace, lol.

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post #15 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 12:06 PM
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I GOT IT! GEEZ! 2 Cans of PB Blaster later but I got it!

Last edited by KINgGh0sT; 04-29-2009 at 12:30 PM.
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post #16 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 12:42 PM
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Great! And I was just about to look through my service manual for any tips or info that could've helped you out.

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post #17 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 02:18 PM
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Cool deal Dudeeee

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post #18 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 09:25 PM
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Now, tomorrow I gotta tackle the nipple and the tube in the valley... that's gonna be fun!
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post #19 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 09:29 PM
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Great! And I was just about to look through my service manual for any tips or info that could've helped you out.
The service manual says "pull the bolts, pull it off" pretty much, I have one.

It does point out the 'tabs' for prying; they're pretty obvious if you look at it. I broke those off in about 10 seconds...

The problem is the aluminum waterpump in an iron block, and at least one long interval between coolant changes... Mine was pretty much corroded in place; bet the OP's was too. Can't really complain, my water pump had 200k on it when it went bad. That's a lot better than any other car I've ever owned.

Getting it out is hard also because it has to come straight out; if you get it cocked to the side, it will never come out. Too bad no one makes a puller, lol.

In most cars, changing the coolant every other year will keep any corrosion problems at bay; unfortunately, most of us didn't own the cars new, and the damage is done.

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post #20 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-12-2009, 02:34 PM
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In most cars, changing the coolant every other year will keep any corrosion problems at bay; unfortunately, most of us didn't own the cars new, and the damage is done.
exactly... the sludge i got out of my radiator and bubble could have been mud... or brown cake frosting... and not 20000 miles after flushing it, just about every seal you could think of on the cooling system failed. plus that pump was so full of corrosion i had to take a wire wheel to the block befor i could even get the new pump to fit in there. -_-
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post #21 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 02:01 PM
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4.6L Water pump Removal?

How the hell do you get it off of a '96 Cougar? I removed all the bolts: (4 of them, or is there another one I am missing?) but it is secured like it is still bolted down!! WHAT gives?

Any help would be appericiated....

I have the motor all ripped down and almost ready to swap the PI intake on, I just need to get the waterpump off so I can swap out the nipple in the block for the PI heater tube and start putting it back together...

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post #22 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 02:06 PM
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you dont remove the water pump for the swap , just leave it alone . You do need to change the
heater core tube that runs through the valley of the engine under the intake and also need to make a T for the temp gauge .
FYI I used the old heater core tube for the T, I just cut it to length and used the climate control bung to attache the temp sensor .

Here is a picture of the T fitting , kind of hard to see but its there .

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post #23 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 02:29 PM
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take a hammer to the neck to break the capillary seal.




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post #24 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 03:01 PM
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figures, I should have waited for your response. Oh well I already had the new parts on order so I cant return them anyways. The new intake has the two ports already drilled and tapped for both sensors.

Got the pump off and the nipple knocked out of the block, now I am just waiting on my parts to show up tomorrow, so I can start reassembly.

Thanks guys.

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post #25 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 03:04 PM
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now I am just waiting on my parts to show up tomorrow, so I can start reassembly.

Thanks guys.
x2! I'm all set for reassembly when the new parts arrive tomorrow. Got the RTV where it needs to be and is curing up so I can fire her up right away!

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post #26 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 03:13 PM
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figures, I should have waited for your response. Oh well I already had the new parts on order so I cant return them anyways. The new intake has the two ports already drilled and tapped for both sensors.

Thanks guys.
I did not know they started making the PI intakes with the correct NPI gaskets and sensor ports .

When did this happen ?

Man this is easier than When I did my pi head and intake swap .

Good luck !

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post #27 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 03:37 PM
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I think he has the Dorman intake which has o-rings and such integrated into it.

-Brandon
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post #28 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 03:47 PM
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yes I have the dorman, I just gotta put the silicone on tonight and it will be good to go

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post #29 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 03:49 PM
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I don't want to insult your intelligence, but make sure you wait at least 24 hours for the silicone to cure before you add coolant and such.

-Brandon
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post #30 of 53 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
x2! I'm all set for reassembly when the new parts arrive tomorrow. Got the RTV where it needs to be and is curing up so I can fire her up right away!
GOOD Idea man, I just ran out and did the same! now I will be ready to install tomorrow.

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