EGR cleaning w/ Seafoam - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-28-2004, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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EGR cleaning w/ Seafoam

Is it possible to get that little passage in the intake that leads to the EGR to unclog w/ some Seafoam? Like maybe pour some directly in there and just let it sit w/o the car running, but being fully hot? I REALLY don't want to have to yank the EGR off and try to clean it. By the looks of things, it almost looks like taking the upper intake off and cleaning it out that way would be easier than reaching the stupid valve. And, where is the passage that is always carboned up and blocked at exactly? My manual shows no good pics.

Jay

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-28-2004, 11:20 PM
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Here's an idea...

Above the general area where the EGR valve/intake elbow is, and directly below the wiper cowl, there is what's called a "vacuum 'T'" that has two connections and one empty port with a cap on it. The green line connected to it runs to the top of the EGR valve, while what I think is a red line runs (I think) to another "T" which allows for climate control stuff to work. Don't touch either line already connected. Instead, connect a long piece of vacuum tubing to the empty port (remove cap first) and place the other end of the tube in a bottle of Sea Foam. Run the car and allow the product to run through the vacuum tube and into the engine. If it flows the right way through the vacuum "T" some should reach the EGR system. If anything, this will also remove some carbon from your combustion chambers/valves/etc. If there is any type of small valve you can use to regulate how much Sea Foam goes into the engine at once, I'd recommend it. Otherwise, use clear tubing and your fingers to regulate the flow once the engine is on.

-DG-

'07 Toyota FJ Cruiser

(Sold)1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Black/Black
Chrome Cobra R's, BFG Rubber, Cobra/KVR Brakes
Custom Koni front air struts, Bilstein/Addco in rear
Cobra Intake Manifold, SCT XCal by Lonnie of BOC
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-28-2004, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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That's a good idea, thank you. I'll look for that tomorrow. I can use a piece of fish tank air tubing that I have laying around from one of my tanks. That should be clear and small enough to regulate the flow. I hope it works.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 12:17 AM
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I hope it works out...please let me know if you get it to work. I'm not sure fish tank tubing will be big enough...depending on what size you have. If you're referring to the stuff you usually run from the aerator, it might be a bit small to fit over the fitting. The cap on it looked the be about the same size as the outside diameter of fish tank aerator tubing. Either way I'm sure you'll figure something out. I might try this myself...it can't hurt with a ten year/83k mile old engine, especially considering the gas that's been floating around lately.

-DG-

PS- How do you like the car without mufflers? Do you have the stock cats on there still? Highway resonance exterior vs. interior and so on, if you don't mind. I'm seriously considering as a cheap alternative to duals, as my drivetrain needs some work first.

'07 Toyota FJ Cruiser

(Sold)1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Black/Black
Chrome Cobra R's, BFG Rubber, Cobra/KVR Brakes
Custom Koni front air struts, Bilstein/Addco in rear
Cobra Intake Manifold, SCT XCal by Lonnie of BOC
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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I have some larger dia. tubing that I don't use, so I think it'll work. I'll see. I have to get some more seafoam first, I'm out. I just really dont want to tear my hands up trying to fish the EGR valve from the back of the motor.



The exhaust sounds good for what it is. I know some people say it sounds ricey at higher RPM, but I followed it one night and it didn't sound bad to me. I have the 3 stock cats, removed the resonator and put a straight pipe in its place, and then just hacked the mufflers off as close to the bend in the back as possible, then just got some cheapo pipe from vato-zone that is 18" long, and threw some round rolled chrome tips on it that are just a hair longer than the rear bumper profile looking down on it. Interior resonance isn't bad, but around 1800-2000rpm in OD crusing, you hear some. My wife doesn't even notice it now, so thats how much there is. And she is picky on noise. It has a nice burble when you start it up and idle. I spent a whole $20 to fab mine up. Here is a pic from the back of my bird that kinda shows the exhaust tips. Highway cruising is quiet unless you really get on it, then it lets people know you're around



These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 12:51 AM
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Next day off: Wednesday
Project: Remove mufflers

I hear you on the EGR man..
I have a vacuum leak coming from that area and I HOPE to God it's not the EGR stuck open. Of course it would explain the 200 miles to the tank business...

Anyway, let me know how it all turns out. If I try it before you post, I'll post about it.

-DG-

'07 Toyota FJ Cruiser

(Sold)1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Black/Black
Chrome Cobra R's, BFG Rubber, Cobra/KVR Brakes
Custom Koni front air struts, Bilstein/Addco in rear
Cobra Intake Manifold, SCT XCal by Lonnie of BOC
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Lol! Just a word to the wise- When cutting off the mufflers, cut the pipe as close as you can to the front of the muffler, that is, the INLET of the muffler. Once you crawl under there, you will see what I mean. If you cut too far back , you won't have enough pipe to get a straight piece on there securely. Mine had just enough left to hold tightly. That and I tightened the clamps w/ my impact wrench. Remember, measure twice, cut once. I went w/ a 2 1/2 inch tip that has the slits cut in it at the clamp end to allow it to fit on the stock 2" pipe extension I used. If you go to autozone, just look for the 18" section of straight pipe that has a flare on one end and is 2" OD on the other, and then just get yourself some tips. I went w/ round since the car really has no edges, so I think square would look goofy. maybe some nice round slash cut tips would look good too, but I couldn't find any. Good luck.

These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.
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