Hows this intake setup? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2004, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Question Hows this intake setup?

I have 2 choices to go with here. Please tell me the downfalls of each set up, and the advantages, or if it will even work....

Choice 1: Start out with a TFS upper plenum (Summit # TFS-518B0001. Should i spring for the silver or black for $10 more?). Then add a BBK 70MM (Summit # BBK-1700 or should i go with the 75mm) Throttle body. (Are EGR Plates absolutley neccessary?). Next add a Motorvation Throttle Body Spacer (Summit # MVC 5229). Then i will custom fabricate a "civic tube" look alike, out of 2" stainless steel tubing. I will need a 2-to-a-3.5" pipe adapter so its compatible with that black springy tube that attaches to the MAFS. Speaking of MAFS, i'd also get the Granatelli Motorsports MAFS (Summit # GRN-80004619-00), which will connect to my "Intimidator" Conical filter i already have.

Choice 2: Same as above, but instead of trying to make a civic tube (i already have all the pipes etc) i'll keep the violin case.

I'll also add BBK Fuel pressure regulator (Summit # BBK-1707)

Now some questions
1: If i make the "civic tube," will 2" be too restrictive?
2: All of the above parts were intended for 1996-2001 Mustang's, will they be compatible with the Thunderbird (i've heard that the upper plenum may be too tall?)
3: I dont plan to add forced induction, so are my set ups overkill for N/A?








94 LX V8 & 93 SC gone. Not forgotten.
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Cobra U/L intake, PP 65mm TB, Powerdyne BD-11 8#, Walbro 255, FRPP 30lb Injectors, MSD ignition, 3.8 Taurus E-fan, A9P MAF conversion, Pypes 1&5/8" Shortys, O/R H-Pipe, 4.10 Trac-Lok, T-5 swap, FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch, Steeda Clutch kit
2002 F150 FX4 Lariat 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Stock FX4 wheels, 37x12.50 Nitto Trails, Yukon 4.56s, Detroit TrueTrac, Edge Evo, 8K HIDs, PowerStop truck&tow kit
1996 GMC Suburban SLT 6K HIDs, crystal clear light set, daily beater @ 222k miles

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2004, 10:57 PM
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Okay, here's my best shot:

The TFS or any aftermarket plenum will NOT work on a stock 94/95 engine, assuming you haven't switched to 1) a 96+ NPI/PI intake manifold or 2) a newer 4.6 altogether.

The Throttle Body is a waste of money on these cars. If I remember correctly, 70mm is the size of the stock throttle body on a 94/95, and is more than adequate for the measley ~300cfm the engine flows. In terms of reducing restriction, your intake elbow, intake manifold, and stock heads produce so much turbulence and therefore restriction that any aftermarket upgrade to the intake before these parts is simply a waste of money. Even then, from what I've read here, guys who are high horsepower/torque N/A and even sometimes F/I don't see much of a gain with the aftermarket throttle bodies.

EGR plates are not needed unless you're running most flavors of the 5.0 engine.

It has been posted many times that the throttle body spacer is also a waste of money. Again, upgrades that are upstream of all your stock restrictive components are pretty much worthless.

A two-inch tube would indeed be restrictive. Go for 3" exhaust tubing, bend appropriately, and if needed flatten the bottom where it crosses the RH fuel rail. You can also port out the violin case as per RichardM:

http://home.flash.net/~rfm2/intake.htm

I haven't read much about the GMS MAF on this board. Try over at modular depot. Even then, it's probably for a 'stang, and that wouldn't work for our cars. Either grab a 80mm or 90mm from Dan Newman or Max @ 5 Star, or don't bother. You can't (usually) beat Ford parts. Additionally, you're going to need a re-tune for any aftermarket MAF.

The Fuel Pressure Regulator is advantageous ONLY if you're going to tune the car on a dyno to calibrate it via the A/F ratio readout of the dynamometer. If you want to do this, you could pick up an aftermarket MAF and have the computer re-flashed while the engine is also tuned for the regulator.

Sorry to sound like a tool man but I've looked at all that stuff and cross-referenced it on here. Modding a 94/95 is usually a lose/lose situation unless you have the money for a real investment (i.e. new engine, drivetrain, etc.).

Why not go for stuff that'll make the car a lot more "fun" to drive:

-3.73 (or your preferred flavor) rear gears and aluminum driveshaft
-suspension upgrades (springs, shocks, sway bars, etc.)
-brake upgrades (good rotors, PBR/aftermarket calipers, best pads you can find)
-sound system
-interior goodies
-bodywork

Oh and how could I forget the obvious "jmod" (it's not in your sig so I assume you don't have it). If you don't want to drill, the Performance Automatic valve body can be had at Jeg's for about $250.00.

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Chrome Cobra R's, BFG Rubber, Cobra/KVR Brakes
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 01:04 AM
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Talking

which valve body for our cars? the Ford AODE Street/Strip Valve Body, early 1992-95 i take it is the one?
i was wanting to buy one from performance automatics
but they couldnt ship, im sure jegs will be able to and its cheaper to boot
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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yes, the j-mod and 3.73 gears are on my list of things to do once i get my other crap sorted out.

Oh yeah, any input on Eibach pro kit springs? i've heard mixed reactions about them. Are these just bolt 'in' pieces, or do i need to play with my camber, caster, etc, change the shocks, and replace the swaybars?








94 LX V8 & 93 SC gone. Not forgotten.
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Cobra U/L intake, PP 65mm TB, Powerdyne BD-11 8#, Walbro 255, FRPP 30lb Injectors, MSD ignition, 3.8 Taurus E-fan, A9P MAF conversion, Pypes 1&5/8" Shortys, O/R H-Pipe, 4.10 Trac-Lok, T-5 swap, FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch, Steeda Clutch kit
2002 F150 FX4 Lariat 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Stock FX4 wheels, 37x12.50 Nitto Trails, Yukon 4.56s, Detroit TrueTrac, Edge Evo, 8K HIDs, PowerStop truck&tow kit
1996 GMC Suburban SLT 6K HIDs, crystal clear light set, daily beater @ 222k miles

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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update: I've done some work...eh? I know, i gotta remove the that thing inside there for the full benefit.

Before:


After:








94 LX V8 & 93 SC gone. Not forgotten.
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Cobra U/L intake, PP 65mm TB, Powerdyne BD-11 8#, Walbro 255, FRPP 30lb Injectors, MSD ignition, 3.8 Taurus E-fan, A9P MAF conversion, Pypes 1&5/8" Shortys, O/R H-Pipe, 4.10 Trac-Lok, T-5 swap, FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch, Steeda Clutch kit
2002 F150 FX4 Lariat 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Stock FX4 wheels, 37x12.50 Nitto Trails, Yukon 4.56s, Detroit TrueTrac, Edge Evo, 8K HIDs, PowerStop truck&tow kit
1996 GMC Suburban SLT 6K HIDs, crystal clear light set, daily beater @ 222k miles

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 08:57 PM
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94cougarXR7-

You are correct; the "early 92-95" street/strip valve body is the correct piece for our cars. While you're in there, don't forget to upgrade the pan and accumulator pistons/springs. Here's a list of the Ford Part Numbers you'll need to complete the upgrade:

F8UZ-7A194-AA - oil pan with dimple and drain plug
F6AZ-7A098-A - transmission filter for this pan
F7AZ-7F251-AA - 1-2 accumulator
F4AZ-7F247-A - 1-2 accumulator cover
F7AZ-7H292-AB - 2-3 accumulator

-DG-

'07 Toyota FJ Cruiser

(Sold)1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Black/Black
Chrome Cobra R's, BFG Rubber, Cobra/KVR Brakes
Custom Koni front air struts, Bilstein/Addco in rear
Cobra Intake Manifold, SCT XCal by Lonnie of BOC
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2004, 09:45 PM
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thx DGFourSixLX
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-30-2004, 03:36 PM
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If you are going to go for a fuel pressure reg, buy a Kirban, as BBK makes a pretty , but useless one, as they do not last very long... The cone filters are overkill, a plate filter and stock airbox is actually a good setup as long as you get rid of the restrictor(called a silencer ) in the elbow at the bottom of your air box, and thats approx 56mm in a nominal 65 mm induction system. Just pop the plastic tabs and it will fall down into the front valence... a free mod... the violin case needs to go, and 3 inch tubeing takes its place nicely....good luck
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-30-2004, 06:37 PM
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This is what i did for mine. 3" Civic Intake Tube, 3" Specter Intake Flex, Removes the Air Resonator, and got a Holley Powershot Filter in the Case. I can hear the Intake over my Exhaust, a few people thought i had a supercharger, sounds and flows nice.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-30-2004, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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I already removed the silencer, its long gone. But, when looking for the civic tube, what year civic do i have to look for? Is any cutting required? And the "3" Specter Intake Flex" Is that springy looking think, or the bellow? I plan on getting one so the inside ribbing is smooth. Even with just porting out the end violin case, it made a louder noise when at idle.








94 LX V8 & 93 SC gone. Not forgotten.
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Cobra U/L intake, PP 65mm TB, Powerdyne BD-11 8#, Walbro 255, FRPP 30lb Injectors, MSD ignition, 3.8 Taurus E-fan, A9P MAF conversion, Pypes 1&5/8" Shortys, O/R H-Pipe, 4.10 Trac-Lok, T-5 swap, FRPP flywheel, Ram HDX clutch, Steeda Clutch kit
2002 F150 FX4 Lariat 6" Fabtech, 3" BL, Stock FX4 wheels, 37x12.50 Nitto Trails, Yukon 4.56s, Detroit TrueTrac, Edge Evo, 8K HIDs, PowerStop truck&tow kit
1996 GMC Suburban SLT 6K HIDs, crystal clear light set, daily beater @ 222k miles

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