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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2004, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Aha!

I think I've figured it out after trouble shooting with my dad and arguing over some other stuff.

He told me about the valve stem leaking oil, this got me to thinking, couldn’t it technically drip to the spark plug and the spark plug would have to burn off the oil before running well?

It all makes sense too! I've heard that Luca's Oil Additive could fix this problem; I'm not too keen on pouring stuff into my engine though.

How much would it cost at a shop to get my Valve Stems replaced? (If that's even correct, maybe a valve stem?) I’m pretty sure this isn’t a do-it-your self project.

Thanks,
Eric M. Pelezo

1994 Ford Thunderbird Supercoupe - 3.8L V6 - 15.125 @ 90.76

”Sticks impress high-school kids, autos win races” – Unknown
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2004, 06:12 PM
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The valve stem is part of the valve - you probably just need to replace the valve stem seals, and not the valves themselves.

John

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2004, 06:15 PM
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yep, valve stem seals are the issue on these cars with burning the little bit of oil

happens all the time

cost at a shop? a lot of money heh... the head(s) needs to be disassembled, and by the time you spend money for that, just put a damn low mileage PI motor in and call it a day
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2004, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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hehe, maybe I'll save up for a new used long block.

I'm looking for power. I'm not too sure on some of the stuff too, such as, overbored.

I think I know why forged pistons and what not are more powerfull.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 12:50 AM
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The valve stem seal is a seal that goes onto the valve stem, it slides down the valve and seats on the guide. Keeping oil from getting between the valve stem, and the guide. In airplanes... sometimes you want to have a little oil get past there... helps lubrication. of course only some continental motors have them on there, and it's only the exhaust valve. 4.6L has 16 of em. They are cheap too... a shop WILL be expensive, only because of labor. Parts for the job will be seals, and some misc gaskets and a spring compressor, etc etc.

1997 Mark VIII LSC - Toreador Red
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 12:52 AM
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dude go on green leaf and get an 02 explorer motor, around 1000 and it is lighter a good upgrade over our engines
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by AnthraxBird
The valve stem seal is a seal that goes onto the valve stem, it slides down the valve and seats on the guide. Keeping oil from getting between the valve stem, and the guide. In airplanes... sometimes you want to have a little oil get past there... helps lubrication. of course only some continental motors have them on there, and it's only the exhaust valve. 4.6L has 16 of em. They are cheap too... a shop WILL be expensive, only because of labor. Parts for the job will be seals, and some misc gaskets and a spring compressor, etc etc.
My stepdad owns a shop He's currently in the run of putting his 900hp/w/nos engine on his drag boat.

We get to take it out this weekend, I'm hope he has seat belts for that thing hehe.

I figured out what was causing it, after spending dollar after dolar only to find out it was a vacum leak on a little cord that went from the top of the head covers to under the intake box, it's got a little spot that plugs in that goes to the EGR too I think, maybe PCV not sure.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Warlockguitarman
dude go on green leaf and get an 02 explorer motor, around 1000 and it is lighter a good upgrade over our engines
Seems like an extreme fix for bad valve seals. If you're looking to upgrade, then this is good advise. If you just want to fix your car, look into doing it yourself. You would have just as much work trying to replace the engine.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 10:38 AM
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Since we're talking about replacing the valve stem seals on a 95...

How difficult is it to pull the valve covers? The driver side looks fairly easy, but on the passenger side it looks like the fuel and A/C lines are really in the way.

I have some "oozing" around the bolts holes and I want to replace the seals (which I think can be replaced without pulling the valve covers). But if figured if I was going to tear that far into the top end of the motor, I might as well do the valve stem seals while I'm there. (I have the OEM spring compressors, and an air compressor).

But has anyone actually done this repair? Tips/hints, etc…

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 94 Daily Driven 4.6L
Since we're talking about replacing the valve stem seals on a 95...

How difficult is it to pull the valve covers? The driver side looks fairly easy, but on the passenger side it looks like the fuel and A/C lines are really in the way.

I have some "oozing" around the bolts holes and I want to replace the seals (which I think can be replaced without pulling the valve covers). But if figured if I was going to tear that far into the top end of the motor, I might as well do the valve stem seals while I'm there. (I have the OEM spring compressors, and an air compressor).

But has anyone actually done this repair? Tips/hints, etc…
Covers are easy to get off. Get a 8 mm swivel socket, 1/4" drive and you shoud be set. Pull the 11 bolts/studs out bring the cover off, throw a new gasket on, RTV it and put everything back together.

In order to pull the heads, the covers have to come off, so they are doable. Couple of the valve cover bolts are a little tricky though.

Joe

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PnP'd NPIs, PI Cams, PI intake, 80mm GT MAF, 24# Injectors, Shorty Headers, SCT Tuned, Jmod, Trans Cooler, 3.73's, Underdrives, Zex Dry kit 75 shot, Dirtydog TC, Trans built by Darrin, 97 Cupholders

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 01:35 PM
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8mm or 5/16" 1/4" drive universal socket should be THE most important tool if you ever pull the valve covers off.. especially when putting them back on...
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 01:37 PM
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Cool. Thanks for the replies. I just was worried about the A/C and fuel lines making the removal very difficult.

Guess it's time to order the seals.

97 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (Chip'd, 3.73 T/L... so far... )
97 Ford Aspire (Slow, but getting 36 mpg (f'n Ethenol!! )
84 F250 Dually w/6.9L Diesel (7.3L IDI pending)
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2004, 02:58 PM
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Make sure you have a pretty lengthy extension as well. Some of the AC lines do get in the way, so the extension makes it pretty handy. I was stuck using a 8mm socket and a swivel, and there were a few bolts that were very tight t get on. I had to loosen them then use my hands to get them the rest of the way out. I think a swivel socket would be able to get them all the way out.

Joe

1994 Mercury Cougar XR7 4.6L Special Edition

PnP'd NPIs, PI Cams, PI intake, 80mm GT MAF, 24# Injectors, Shorty Headers, SCT Tuned, Jmod, Trans Cooler, 3.73's, Underdrives, Zex Dry kit 75 shot, Dirtydog TC, Trans built by Darrin, 97 Cupholders

219 RWHP/256 RWTQ NA
280 RWHP/343 RWTQ Bottle Fed (75 shot)
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