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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-03-2006, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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starter removal

what's the best way to remove the starter? getting to all three bolts looked very difficult. i searched on the tccoa and one post said to remove the exhaust. another suggested removal of the intake airbox and tube.

what's the best way to do this?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-03-2006, 05:05 PM
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im the same boat as you. http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=88821 ...

it has been raining the past week or so so i havn't had a chance to go at it. but i think if you remove the passenger valve cover/02 sensor and get a long extension and go at it from the front it will be smoth sailing
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-05-2006, 08:09 PM
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You don't have to remove the exhaust.

It's a bear of a job. More proof these are truck engines dropped into a car.

It was 2 years ago when I replaced my starter but I remember some long extensions and Ujoint sockets coming in handy.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-05-2006, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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i will try and i will succeed eventually.

my friend with a civic couldn't understand why i would have problems with removing my starter. his is located on top in his engine bay and has complete access. he likes his car more and more every time he helps me tinker on the cougar.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-06-2006, 10:40 AM
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I used a 3" extension and a u-joint. a wobble joint might be better.




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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-06-2006, 11:07 AM
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and leave the top bolt out




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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-06-2006, 06:32 PM
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i remove 2 bolts from the downtube/manifold and i have LOTS of room when that pipe is outa the way.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-06-2006, 08:12 PM
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no chit.. when that downtube is "relocated" it makes life hella easy


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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-07-2006, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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i already tried taking out the catalytic converter, but the two bolts were rusted way too bad...i'd break them for sure, and i don't want to deal with that right now.


green bird, with the 3" extension and swivel joint, did you go at it from the top or bottom? also, what else did you remove (intake tube, box, valve cover, etc.)?

3" sounds a lot shorter than what other people have used, so you might have the most straight forward method for my situation.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 02:10 AM
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From the bottom. I would stick the socket on the bolt, then get the extension and u-joint on the socket, then put the ratchet on the u-joint. It was hard, going one or two clicks at a time. I don't remember if I had the down tube off or not.




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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 09:00 PM
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I used like 2 or 3, 3" extentions to go past the end of the starter and a large ratchet to get the top bolt that you can barely see. It was about 40* when I did mine so it was a little harder, it seemed like a piece of cake to me. I didn't even use a wobble socket or anything just alot of little extensions that got me just past the starter. And I put all 3 back, mental issues ^_^
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 11:33 PM
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The starters like the oil filter theres a way but its a pain in the ***. Bestway I found was 2 long extentions and a wobble and come in on top of the exhaust and when you put it back in leave that bolt out
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 12:09 AM
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i removed my cat and it is definitly alot easier to get to the bolts. but i have a slight problem... i rounded the **** out of the top pain in the *** bolt. Am i screwed? the bolts are 10 mm right?
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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can someone confirm the following:

'you can get all the starter bolts out with extensions and wobble/U joints... while keeping the stock exhaust in place'
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 09:14 AM
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I replaced mine using some extensions and a universal. I did it from underneath with the car on jackstands. I didn't remove the exhaust when I did it either. I agree with the others though, it's a good idea to leave the top bolt out when putting it back in.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boba
can someone confirm the following:

'you can get all the starter bolts out with extensions and wobble/U joints... while keeping the stock exhaust in place'
I used a 6" extension, but it was easier since I was standing up and had a light because the car was on a lift. Its just rough if you arent used to working blindly(top bolt) having to only feel for the bolts. Thank goodness Im used to workin on navy jets.

"Piss poor planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 08:58 PM
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I didn't even use a wobble extension and just had the car up on ramps.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-16-2006, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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got it off. all three bolts out and all three bolts in. didn't remove any intake or exhaust. i just used a bunch of extensions, wobble joints, and a u-joint. i took one bolt off from underneath the car with minimal extensions. the other two used ~4' of extensions and we went at it from above the engine bay near the front of the car. i had a friend with small hands locate the socket on the bolt heads.

and the problem wasn't the starter. i still have to figure out what's wrong.

also, while under the car, when poking my extremely rusted oil pan...oil permeated out in small dots. i am amazed that the pan hasn't cracked and dumped all my oil, as it seems extremely thin. i cleaned it up and smeared liquid metal all over it. hopefully it can last me another few thousand miles.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-17-2006, 05:24 AM
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Oh, if you can spray lots of PB Blaster or some other kind of penetrant all over the bolts, and let it sit at least an hour before you start turning wrenches.

"Piss poor planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-18-2006, 07:40 AM
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Do you hear the starter engage when the ignition is turned to the crank position? Do you just hear a POP type sound and then all of the electrical (clock, dome light, etc.) die when in the crank position? I am posting the diagnosis routine(s) from the manual. . . .They can be downloaded/viewed at http://www.guardcows.com/ford

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1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-18-2006, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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the main problem is that when i turn the key, the starter does nothing and is silent. then i turn again and get a rev. then i turn again and i get a few revs. i hold the starter revving until the engine fires and then i'm on my way with no problems. something is making my battery bad. it could be a bad battery and it could be something else.

i assumed a bad starter and replaced it. the car was having the same crappy startup issues, so i measured some voltages and found that the battery was down to ~10.5 volts (a relatively new red top optima battery). the battery needed a charge.

jumped the car (battery was removed) and tested the alternator, and it was putting out over 14 volts. the car had driven a few hundred miles with this crappy startup problem, so it could be something slowly leaching the battery. i'm doubting it's the battery since it can be charged and it turns the starter even at a low voltage of ~10 volts.

since i have a new starter, i'm thinking about replacing the part attached to it... the car.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 02:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boba
the main problem is that when i turn the key, the starter does nothing and is silent. then i turn again and get a rev. then i turn again and i get a few revs. i hold the starter revving until the engine fires and then i'm on my way with no problems. something is making my battery bad. it could be a bad battery and it could be something else.

i assumed a bad starter and replaced it. the car was having the same crappy startup issues, so i measured some voltages and found that the battery was down to ~10.5 volts (a relatively new red top optima battery). the battery needed a charge.

jumped the car (battery was removed) and tested the alternator, and it was putting out over 14 volts. the car had driven a few hundred miles with this crappy startup problem, so it could be something slowly leaching the battery. i'm doubting it's the battery since it can be charged and it turns the starter even at a low voltage of ~10 volts.

since i have a new starter, i'm thinking about replacing the part attached to it... the car.
Thats the exact problem mine had. A Ford tech explained it to me, but it was so long ago I cant remember the details. Short story, just replace the starter.

"Piss poor planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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i did replace the starter. any other guesses?
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 10:52 AM
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Check the ignition switch in the column?
It's a sliding switch with a rod. Sometimes when they get worn the switch will not push the rod down all the way.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 10:57 AM
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Well since you replaced the starter already, I would venture to say it must be the battery terminals, the cables/grounds, or as Beast of Bird'n said the ignition switch.

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 11:45 AM
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The symptoms described are covered in "Pinpoint Test A" on the link that I posted earlier.

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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