help removing my oil pan? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-04-2006, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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help removing my oil pan?

as some of you know, something came through my oil pan. im guessing its a connecting rod bolt just by the size of it and location.

before i jump and buy a new motor i'd like to take the pan off and see what happened, because before this incident the motor still had loads of power left. could anyone tell me the best way to go about taking the pan off? it looks like i might have to take the sway bar off to, but im not sure. i've never taken an oil pan off before so this is a first for me

my car is a 96 t-bird with the 4.6L engine, so you know what kind of "setup" it has under there

thanks for any help!

1996 Thunderbird LX 4.6
Alpine Green
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-04-2006, 02:51 PM
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From what I've read, it involves raising the engine up or lowering the front subframe/K-member.

Have you considered buying a chilton manual or downloading the manual from fordcds.com?

"Won't work, can't be done"
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-04-2006, 03:07 PM
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You'll have to raise the engine about 4 inches to clear the subframe. Doing so might require you to disconnect the exhaust since it might hit the frame as you are raising the engine. The A/C lines might also not have enough slack to go up that much either.

The service manual says to disconnect the fuel lines, take off the EGR valve, discharge A/C take out the bolt connecting the A/C line to the ignition coil bracket, remove engine grounds, exhaust, and then lift the engine up. You don't always have to do everything it says though, so you might want to just put a block of wood under the oil pan, get the motor mount bolts undone, and slowly have someone raise the engine as you carefully inspect everything. Then once you get it high enough you can put some blocks of wood between the engine and subframe on each side to hold it up.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 08:33 AM
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Oil Pan??

~~Hello

Sound like everyone wants to do it the hard way.

Support the engine from the top. Remove the Engine mount bolts, Lower the Front K, Six bolts. All kinds of room. Just about nothing to remove from the engine.
Don't forget to remove the upper shock (3 small) bolts & watch your brake lines.

This will work with any size engine.

You will just need a 3/4in pin the realigned the front K, remount motor mounts done.

GOOD LUCK, HAVE FUN

PAUL

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirdtess
~~Hello

Sound like everyone wants to do it the hard way.

Support the engine from the top. Remove the Engine mount bolts, Lower the Front K, Six bolts. All kinds of room. Just about nothing to remove from the engine.
Don't forget to remove the upper shock (3 small) bolts & watch your brake lines.

This will work with any size engine.

You will just need a 3/4in pin the realigned the front K, remount motor mounts done.

GOOD LUCK, HAVE FUN

PAUL
do you have to disconnect p/s lines? lca's?

Drive it like you stole it!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-08-2006, 05:25 PM
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Don't forget to disconnet the steering shaft.

-Rod

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 09:33 AM
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Speaking of doing it the hard way. If something came through your pan from the inside it is nothing more than wishful thinking of you expect you won't be replacing that motor.

Save yourself the extra labor and just pull that one out through the top. You can inspect what grenaded after it's out

Birdless

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-09-2006, 06:51 PM
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or a PI 4.6 with a t 56, yeah this would be the better route. do it do it

Jim

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-10-2006, 07:15 PM
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Put a 460 in that beyotch!

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-11-2006, 10:03 AM
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Damn.. The T56 alone is over 2k... That's alot of money for a tranny... and then add all of the rest of the crap that you need to swap it?! I was thinking on putting a stick in my 95 with the exploder, but I do not want to dump over 3k in just the tranny


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 05:31 AM
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if you don't care about the engiene diegrinder the oil pan off and it might save you some trouble your old oil pan is shot anyway.

1996 sport 4.6 130k and still strong.
1991 SC 3.8 project and toy.
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