plugs in wires, much work? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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plugs in wires, much work?

well found out whats wrong with my car, i need new plugs and wires, i just got stock ford parts, i can save 80 bucks doing it myself so im just curious, it sounds easy enough but not every doing anything before is it that big of a deal?
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 02:47 PM
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its easy , do one plug and wire at a time .Gap the sparkplugs to .054 I think .

Just watch your fingers , the gas rails cut .

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 02:53 PM
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make sure you put some anti-seize on the plug threads, and some dielectric grease on the plug boots.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 03:26 PM
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Also, use some compressed air and blow out the plug holes before you take out the plugs to keep sand and crud from getting into the cylinders.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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ok, thanks guys
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 04:19 PM
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What these guys said, it's easy Good Luck

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 04:19 PM
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Yea, definatly make sure you clean around the plugs, even before u take the wires off. Dirt just loves to fall in there.

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-15-2006, 05:41 PM
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Watch the bottom of the fuel rails as you pop the plug boots off.

Talk about sharp !

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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do they need to be gapped?
is it best to take off the alternator? how do you remove this?
do you need to take off the big black violin thing that says 4.6 on it?

also whats the dielectric grease and the antiseize for? (im sure antiseize or to stop a seize)

the old plug wires are numbered, the new ones are not so do i just take off any one of them lets say 4 its the one in the back left and then match it up to a wire of the same lengh?

the black protectors on the plugs behind the alternator does them just come off and go back on the new ones?

thanks

Last edited by Fordraceing; 09-19-2006 at 06:41 PM.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordraceing
do they need to be gapped?
Yes, the gap range is on a sticker on the support in the front of the engine bay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordraceing
is it best to take off the alternator? how do you remove this?
You can if you want, two bolts below it one behind it. You don't have to fish the new ones behind the alternator, you can have them come across the top, just don't let them touch the alternator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordraceing
do you need to take off the big black violin thing that says 4.6 on it?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordraceing
also whats the dielectric grease and the antiseize for? (im sure antiseize or to stop a seize)
Dielectric grease protects the electrical connections from moisture, you are correct on the antiseize, so they don't sieze in the heads.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordraceing
the old plug wires are numbered, the new ones are not so do i just take off any one of them lets say 4 its the one in the back left and then match it up to a wire of the same lengh?
Yes, probably won't be exact, but you'll get the hang of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordraceing
the black protectors on the plugs behind the alternator does them just come off and go back on the new ones?

thanks
If they aren't split down one side, then no you can't pull them off. You can try slicing them down one side and pulling them off then ziptieing them on if you really want them, I didn't bother with them.

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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so most of you just put the plugs back in front of the alternator?

whats the violin thing called and what does it do?

whats the best way to remove that?
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-19-2006, 10:18 PM
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The "violin thing" is your air intake, just pull the bolts.
once you get in there it will be easy.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 09:31 AM
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I ran mine over the alt. It looks just as good if you care about that, and on every other car that got the 4.6 they are ran on top. I went to Advance and bought new clips and that is what keeps them from touching the alt. This is one of the easiest cars to do a tune up on, don't pay someone to do it. Oh yeah ONE WIRE AT A TIME!

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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well got it done, only broke one thing and have 4 cuts on my knuckles

the broken part first, its a wire on the alternator, there is a plug that goes in right next to this one single plastic piece i coudn't get it off so i set it on the air intake to get a screw driver and the alt rolled a bit and snaped it. anyways i was able to put it back on at the end (half azz) but i will get it looked at tomarrow.
(what is this piece?)

it decded to take the alt off and run the wires behind it and take the air intake off just to help me learn the way that stuff work and comes together and its really pretty simple whats you do it once.

now i know this is dumb lol but it actually felt really good once i put everything back together and trued the key and it started right up..

anyways thanks guy.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-20-2006, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjchevez

Just watch your fingers , the gas rails cut .

Lol we all have to learn the hard way .

1997 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 Sport .

60'...... 2.06
1/8th .. 9.194
mph .... 77.13

mods*
PI heads *PI intake*Mark VIII torque converter*Cobra T-loc w\4.10's * Jmod*tranny fluid cooler*P&P stock T/B & plenum*UD pulleys* Dynotech 4in ds*80mm Lightning maf*Xcal2*02 GT intake tube.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 02:27 PM
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Question How about "Indexing"?

I think I saw something here on the board about "indexing" the plugs. Is this necessary?

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 02:33 PM
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on a street car, you can forget you ever heard it :P I think it's one of those debates too.. whether indexing will actually help any or not, but I think that's more in the hardcore racing circuit than anything. It just aligns the open side of the spark with the combustion chamber to supposedly help with initial fire and flame propagation. It may be possible finding best fit to index.. but typically, you need to buy a specific washer to get the plug to turn to the proper location to be "indexed"

Also, a tip since when changing wires, you don't intend on reusing them... I always use a pair of pliers to pull the boots up.. saves my knuckles much pain.

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 03:23 PM
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^ i always twist the boot ends a bit and then pull while twisting, works pretty well
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 03:30 PM
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 11:18 PM
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Please dont run the wires in FRONT of the alternator...

That would be...bad. (lol)

Saw that above, was sure that wasn't what you meant...

I don't recommend running them in the factory location under the alternator, because of the heat on the wires. Over time, the wires go bad in that spot first.

Also, avoid running them across any sharp metal edges; they will arc there first, as they age. We have very high voltage ignition systems, and they kill wires.

Don't ever use the old tech 'run your hand down the wire while the engine is running' way of finding bad wires; 'real man' jokes aside, these can kill you. This is not a '75 chevy ignition system.

Spend the extra money to get good wires. Use the plastic 'trees' to seperate them, and keep them away from the engine. Never let them run across the metal of the engine, or brackets, etc. Airspace is a good thing. Cooler is better.

You will notice that one set of cylinders of the engine eats the center of the plugs, the other side eats the piece that sticks out fron the side; this is normal, and due to the polarity of the spark. (we fire two plugs at the same time, one positive, one negative)

Bad O2 sensors apparently make the engine eat plugs faster; not sure why. (lean conditions?)

Just what I've seen.., had my black Cougar since '99 at 30k mi, and when I replaced the plugs, they were as described above...the o2 sensors on my red one took a dump, and ate the plugs within 20k mi...

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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 07:18 PM
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I concur with Grog6 on the wire placement. I bought a new set of 'trees', 'separators', 'wire guides'(they have many names) for race engines which had more space beween wires. I ran them above and behind the alternator where they will be cooler and won't be touching the alternator itself in any way. I recommend Borg Warner Select wires-- I worked with a few guys that performed an autopsy on all the different wires we sold and these had the most insulation and had well sealed boots. Stay away from the Autolite wires--- they tend to separate at the boot over time. Money talks though, so if you want to spend some money for the very best, go with a good brand of racing wires like Ford Racing, Magnecor, or Taylor brands.

As for Indexing, it is a pain in the rear to get the spacers to get a plug sitting just right, so I just go for the easy way and give myself an easier option: I used Bosch Platinum +2 plugs in my car which has 2 ground electrodes and don't require gapping. They are gapped for an average that works in most vehicles, but optimized for the typical modern ignition systems. I have also used the Platinum +4 which don't seem to be much different in performance, but what the hell, it can't hurt.

Oh, btw-- it ain't bad when you can stand back and have a cold one while your buddy busts up his hands for you..... .......hey, he got a beer in the end too! Good Luck.

Last edited by 95Tbirder; 09-26-2006 at 07:27 PM.
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 08:25 PM
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I stuck with and recommend motorcraft wires.

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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-26-2006, 09:45 PM
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Good call

-Lightevergreen----Hey, you can rarely go wrong with OEM. What do Ford sets go for in your neck of the woods? My Borg-Warners were about $75 w/tax and my Bosch plugs were $6 each here in the Seattle area.
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 09:32 AM
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If I remember right they were $85 here, and I got them at an Advance Auto. I don't know why they sell Motorcraft, but it was a good deal for OE wires. As for the plugs they went $2-4-6 for Bosch. I gotta go by Advance today I'll check and see if they still sell them and let you know how much they cost now if it has changed. BTW, they were a heck of a lot easier to install than the cheaper ones.


ps. Im pretty sure they don't have Advance Auto in your area, but on that side of the country it is either Westen Auto or Parts America. They are all owned by the same parent company and should all be able to get the wires.

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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 11:05 AM
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OEM wires are usually the only way to go, that way you get factory performance and the wires are the right length.

I've also heard a rumor that Motorcraft wires have some of the lowest resistance values around.
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