Need a fan code de-coded please. - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Talking Need a fan code de-coded please.

Hi guys. I have a Mustang fan I wish to use for aftermarket purposes. I don't know what it came from, and that's what I want to know.

I want to know the year and model Mustang it's from, and if someone knows, it's rated power and CFM. I would like to know how many amps it draws on startup, and continuos.

Is it a variable speed? Reversable? All I have is the fan, and it's model #: XR3H-8146-AA

Thanks guys.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 11:25 PM
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the search box is your friend

i copied and pasted that model in that box and i immediately got this:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...t=XR3H-8146-AA

it has everything you need to know about that fan .....enjoy
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by guitar maestro
the search box is your friend

i copied and pasted that model in that box and i immediately got this:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.p...t=XR3H-8146-AA

it has everything you need to know about that fan .....enjoy

Thanks for the link. I had ALREADY searched that part number, and found the exact same thread. I read it twice before ever posting my first thread. After you replied, I read it AGAIN, and I still have no more knowledge than I did before.

I want several simple things.

I want to know what they came stock in.
I want to know if the part number has changed, because the frame has.
I want to know if it's variable speed or reversable.
I want to know it's startup draw, and continueous draw.


That's it. That's all I need. I can re-read that thead again if you say everything I need is in there...but frankly I don't want to wast that much of my life again reading about radiators and trans coolers. I need info on the fan.

Thanks so much for the help on this guys. This site is a wealth of knowledge, and I only need a small helping. Thanks again.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 01:40 PM
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my mistake, i could have sworn that it had at least some of the info you were looking for.......as far as i know:

it is a dual-speed fan, but i dont think it is reversable......continuous amp draw should be in the mid-20A range, and about 30A-ish on high speed......on low-speed start-up should be just a bit higher than that.....sorry i dont have exact numbers, as i've never tested them.....i'll see if I can borrow an ammeter to get some concrete numbers for ya

as for as part # changes and vehicle applications, you can give Jason @ Harrelson Ford a call or a PM and im sure he can get you that info....i really dont think he'll mind getting you that info......if you cant get that info we can try to get it for ya somewhere else i suppose

hopefully this was of some help
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by guitar maestro
my mistake, i could have sworn that it had at least some of the info you were looking for.......as far as i know:

it is a dual-speed fan, but i dont think it is reversable......continuous amp draw should be in the mid-20A range, and about 30A-ish on high speed......on low-speed start-up should be just a bit higher than that.....sorry i dont have exact numbers, as i've never tested them.....i'll see if I can borrow an ammeter to get some concrete numbers for ya

as for as part # changes and vehicle applications, you can give Jason @ Harrelson Ford a call or a PM and im sure he can get you that info....i really dont think he'll mind getting you that info......if you cant get that info we can try to get it for ya somewhere else i suppose

hopefully this was of some help

guitar maestro -Thanks for the info. I will PM Jim if you can help me look up his forum name, or just paste a PM form link to him. I just tried looking up that member name but couldn't find anythign close to Jim Harrelson. I appreciate the help on this everyone.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-22-2006, 10:32 PM
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High power dc motors are never really reversable...

They will run backwards, but the brushes will wear out much faster, unless they are of brushless design... which these are not. (mine have brushes, YMMV)

The graphite brushes are set at an angle to the commutator, the copper plates that they rub against, and that angle has a lot to do with the rotation speed, and direction of rotation.

Reversible motors are a compromise, and these fan motors have blades designed to move air a certain direction, so reversability shouldn't be a design concern.

If there is a choice between reversible, and not, use the NOT reversible if you care how long it lasts.

Cordless drills are reversible, but the strongest direction (design direction) is tighten, clockwise, as that is where it will see the highest loading. Take one apart, and you will see what I mean about the offset. (you may be able to see the brushes thru the vent holes.)

AC motors are totally different.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that great info. I think the fan has been run a lot reversed because when I spin the blades in their correct rotation it's easy and smooth. If I spint hem the other direction, there is a distinct clicking, I'm assuming the brushes on the copper plates. I don't mind replacing this fan, $110 is worth it if this thing moves air like should. I just like it's fan span...19" kills almost all other fan diameteres.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-23-2006, 09:42 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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If you can take it apart...

There might be a way to replace the brushes, and 'dress' the commutator plates back to useable... some motors even have places in the casting to move the brushes to the right spot for the other rotation... but a chineese motor is not going to have these features...It is worth looking at...

The clicking is likely wear in the commutator; you can dress it with sandpaper/emery cloth if the copper plates are thick enough. You have to get it flat and smooth, with no lines in the copper at all, and the ends of the brushes should be sanded flat. (if the are long enough; if not, I'd replace them)

You also have to clean out the copper dust from the gaps between plates when you get done, or the poles will short together. I've done this to a ton of starters over the years...

Most electric motors these days are not designed to be rebuilt easily; but it can be done.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
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Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2006, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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The reason I am wondering about draw, is because I've had this fan installed and it killed three 30AMP relays and burned up aan alternator. I know it draws more than 20 or even 30AMPs.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2006, 12:01 PM
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call your local ford dealer, ask for the parts dept. and give em the part number, and they should be able to give you what model of car its from. I know GM can do it, ford should be able to also.

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-24-2006, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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call your local ford dealer, ask for the parts dept. and give em the part number, and they should be able to give you what model of car its from. I know GM can do it, ford should be able to also.

I did try. They couldn't give me ANY technical advice. I'm pretty sure it's a Cobra fan, pre to 2000 model. Maybe a '99 if I remember the auction, but that was four years ago. I think it's a '99 Cobra fan.

I'm mostly interested in learning it's draw on the electrical system.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 08:39 PM
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If its drawing more than 30 A, it may be bad...

find someone with a DC clamp on ammeter, and wire it straight to to battery; see how much it draws.

An AC clutch only draws ~20A, I think thats the heaviest load on these cars. there is no way I could run that and my amp...

You could get a DPDT relay like they use on door locks, and wire two sets of 30A contacts in parallel; but that still seems like too much current.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-27-2006, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for getting back with me on this, and helping a Vette owner put a real fan in his project.

I was reading through some other searches on other forums, and found a little helpful info, but it was in regard to the MarkVIII fan. Hooked to a running alt, on startup it pulled 107 amps. During normal operation, it drew 60+ amps. Now, this was not regulated, and came directly from an alternator power post.

I don't think the fan is bad, but I will do some testing. I think the motor in this Cobra fan is similar enough to the MarkVIII fan that the tests would be the same. This fan is 19" instead of 18", but the blades are what varies.

I am planning, to have a speed control unit so it comes on at a certain temp, and speeds up at a higher temp. The power will be routed via it's own relay, maybe a 75 amp relay. So long as I run it dual speed, and have it start slow, I think I can get around the 100 amp spike and get it directly to the 60 amp draw.

Any thougts?
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 01:09 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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I see why it killed a 30A relay...



I'd use a relay rated for at least 90A; the heat in the engine compartment, plus the startup current might make a smaller relay unreliable.

Get one rated for motor starting (not engine starting!); they are designed to handle the inrush current as it starts up, and will be more reliable as well.

A good second choice is a lighting relay, but tungsten loads don't surge such a long time as a motor start load. A lighting relay I would size at 120A.

This will be expensive, so a little more money now will save you having to replace it several times.

Make sure the terminals' current rating is DC 12V as well. 120V ac contacts won't last in that application; the most positive terminal will burn off eventually...has to do with the way it sparks on open and close.

Good luck!

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


"War Is Peace. Freedom Is Slavery. Ignorance Is Strength." - George Orwell.
Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
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