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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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Cleaning the MAF

It looks like I need a Tamper Proof torx bit to get it out. Has anyone just drilled out the little nub in the middle of the bolt? I can’t find a tamper proof torx bit anywhere locally.

1995 T-bird 4.6l - Eibach lowering springs, Cobra R hood, One 12" sub woofer, Alpine type-R front speakers. 16.249 @85.11mph 1/4 mile
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 01:18 AM
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i think many people have done it. it doesn't hurt anything. they use tamper proof bolt to prevent people do their own maintenace i guess so more $$$ for the dealer.

needle nose plier works best for these kind of situation.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 01:28 AM
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 01:28 AM
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You could use mine but you're clear across the continent.

Seriously, you should be able to locate one. I think it's the tamper-proof 20. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm getting on in age and it's been a while. Try electrical contact cleaner on the wires.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soop
You could use mine but you're clear across the continent.

Seriously, you should be able to locate one. I think it's the tamper-proof 20. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm getting on in age and it's been a while. Try electrical contact cleaner on the wires.

you're right.

i got mine at autozone.

My daily job is to fry rice for my customers....

My Bird is the nicest looking in Midland, Michigan

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 10:34 AM
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Thumbs up Wait, Wait, Wait...Just use a screwdriver.

I just did mine last week without that bit...unplug the MAF sensor, and the air box temp. sensor,,,, then....just take off the upper part of your airbox, undo the hose clamps(2 flat head screws) and just pull the whole plastic and metal section that holds the sensor out of the car. You will be able to see the actual sensor wires through the center of the tube once you separate the metal tube(3 philips scews) from the plastic section. EASY! It took me 3 minutes to do this part. Make sure the metal is cool to the touch and spray it with MAF sensor cleaner(do this in the morning or after the car has been sitting cold for a few hours)---$5 at the parts store. After you spray it down, let it dry and put it back on. VUALA ! Good Luck
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 10:42 AM
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I know some people also take a dremel of something like that and just cut slots in the screws so you could use a slotted screwdriver.

Kind of surprising you can't find a T-20 tamperproof bit around there.

"Won't work, can't be done"
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Yea checked home depot, sears, some other auto store and nothing. If I have to, I can get to an AutoZone but its 45min one way to get there. I think ill ether drill out the center or bring out the dremel tool and make a slot like couger_guy04 mentioned. Thanks guys.

-Dave

1995 T-bird 4.6l - Eibach lowering springs, Cobra R hood, One 12" sub woofer, Alpine type-R front speakers. 16.249 @85.11mph 1/4 mile
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Tbirder
I just did mine last week without that bit...unplug the MAF sensor, and the air box temp. sensor,,,, then....just take off the upper part of your airbox, undo the hose clamps(2 flat head screws) and just pull the whole plastic and metal section that holds the sensor out of the car. You will be able to see the actual sensor wires through the center of the tube once you separate the metal tube(3 philips scews) from the plastic section. EASY! It took me 3 minutes to do this part. Make sure the metal is cool to the touch and spray it with MAF sensor cleaner(do this in the morning or after the car has been sitting cold for a few hours)---$5 at the parts store. After you spray it down, let it dry and put it back on. VUALA ! Good Luck

I just did my cold air intake a la Home depot and I saw the wires in the tube .


Looked easy to do .

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 04:15 PM
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my $.02

It is very easy- most of us own a screw driver right? Even though a complete set of tamper proof torx screw drivers is $25 at my local tool store(you would need the T-20), I still can't justify buying them because this is the only time I have ever needed one. And I guess I found out that I didn't really need them anyways. Another thought is if you do remove the screws, why not find a coupld of slotted or philips screws to permanently fix this? -just a helpful thought
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 05:33 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/ They have a screwdriver bit set that includes a bit for almost every security screw made for 5-10 bucks. I have a set I use at work. We have security screws all over the place.

I did use a dremel with a small ball file and ground the pin out of the screws on my maf long before I purchased that bit set though.

good luck
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 06:06 PM
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Best buy---Craftsman

I gotta help you out on the right parts.......this is stocked in most Sears--go to www.Sears.com
I don't know how to post pics or I would.
Sears item #00947486000 Mfr. model #47486

$24.95 for a complete Tamper-Proof(safety) Torx set

Im sorry, but anything I have bought from Harbor Freight has always broken.....you get what you pay for.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I broke down and drove to VIP (basically an AutoZone) to get the right bit which was a little out of the way but o well. I figured that I am going to have many fords throughout my life and I don’t want to be dremeling every MAF screw just to clean them. I bought a 9 piece tamper proof bit set for $6, can’t beat that lol. There no-names but honestly I don’t think that any tamperproof screw is going to be on that tight.

I cleaned the MAF up and reset the computer and so far it’s running pretty good. I never had a problem with the car running before cleaning the MAF so it’s hard to tell the difference. Just figured its good maintenance. The computer is probably still learning too, I didnt drive it that much after I reset it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Tbirder
I gotta help you out on the right parts.......this is stocked in most Sears--go to www.Sears.com
I don't know how to post pics or I would.
Sears item #00947486000 Mfr. model #47486

$24.95 for a complete Tamper-Proof(safety) Torx set

Im sorry, but anything I have bought from Harbor Freight has always broken.....you get what you pay for.
Yea, I guess I shouldn’t have said that Sears didn’t have them because I did see that exact set. I ruled them out though because of the price, I cant justify buying a whole set for that much when I will probably only use the T-20 size bit maybe once every couple years.

Thanks guys - Dave

1995 T-bird 4.6l - Eibach lowering springs, Cobra R hood, One 12" sub woofer, Alpine type-R front speakers. 16.249 @85.11mph 1/4 mile
2001 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - Cam, headers, HPtuned by me.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-30-2006, 10:19 PM
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Thumbs up Hey, you got the job done

Im glad you got it done. My car really needed this done and I DEFINITELY noticed a difference.... here is where I posted my results:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=88833
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-01-2006, 02:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_viny
The computer is probably still learning too,

to realize the most benefit, if any, is to reset the EEC to clear the adaptive fuel strategy memory....these are fuel corrections that the EEC has learned over time, and might not need them with a nice clean maf

Last edited by guitar maestro; 10-01-2006 at 09:46 PM.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-01-2006, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_viny
I cleaned the MAF up and reset the computer and so far it’s running pretty good.
Yea, I reset the computer.

1995 T-bird 4.6l - Eibach lowering springs, Cobra R hood, One 12" sub woofer, Alpine type-R front speakers. 16.249 @85.11mph 1/4 mile
2001 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - Cam, headers, HPtuned by me.
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