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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-08-2006, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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1993 Mark VIII rebuild kit

Hi guys, I own a 1995 tbird sc, but have now come to own a 1993 mark VIII. Its engine needs rebuilding and I was wonderding what a good rebuild kit would be? Do the 1993 mustang dohc rebuilds kits work in the lincoln. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks Ross.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-08-2006, 06:08 PM
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What are you rebuilding for? If it's anything other than a full-blown race car - it's a lot cheaper to just exchange the engine for a used lo-mileage unit or rebuilt longblock from someone like Jasper.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-08-2006, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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I can do the rebuild. I just want a good rebuild kit. Its not going to be a race car. Just a daily driver. Im getting it for 250$ so I may just end up selling it after I get it running. So whats a good rebuild kit?
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-08-2006, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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This car is going in the garage and Im gonna work on it in my spare time. So which rebuild kit would be good? A mild performance mustagn 4.6 rebuild kit?
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 12:11 AM
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a cobra kit will work, I'd go with .020" over. Just make sure to get flat-tops. It'll up your CR a bit, and that's far better than the huge drop you'd get from GT pistons.




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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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whic year model cobra's used the DOHC 4.6?
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlBirdSC
whic year model cobra's used the DOHC 4.6?
96-98 is what you'll want.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Can u link me the rebuild kit you used Racecougar?
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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And another question, when did marks start getting the quad cam v8? and which cams would be best for my mild performance build up? Does the 1993 have a 4r70w?
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 12:49 PM
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The 4.6 DOHC is all that the Mark VIIIs got. The year range was from 93-97. The 93-96s had a different intake than the 97-98s but they all had the same 4.6 DOHC. Yes, They use the 4R70W. Make sure to check your spring for the 1-2 shift actuator because they have a tendency to break. Not sure about cams, just be ready to fork out some cash because buying 4 perfectly matched cams is not cheap.

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I was thinking that DOHC was just one cam over each head, but its dual cams on each head.....gotcha.

Whats the best way to yank the motor? Will it come straight out the top with the manifolds, tranny, and steering shaft disconnected?

Is it better to drop the motor and k-member together out the bottom?

Another question is. When one of these motors fail what normally is the problem? From what i've been reading they are pretty stout motors. Seems like the #7 and #8 wrist pins are the only thing I see come up breaking on stock marks?

The guy im picking the car up from said he was driving 65mph and the motor died and made some racket so he pulled it over. Then it would turn over very slowly but not fire. So he quit messing with it. Does that sound like wrist pins breaking causing the pistons to wedge themselves in the bore?
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlBirdSC
Can u link me the rebuild kit you used Racecougar?
I didn't use a rebuild kit. My engine is a new-old stock 94 DOHC 4.6L.

Not to discourage you too much, but you may be in over your head here. Rebuilding these engines takes quite a few specialized tools and knowledge (take cam alignment for instance). It isn't anything like rebuilding a SBC engine.

Good luck.

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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My dads a senior master mechanic for ford, so anything I can't do he can help me with. So a 96-97 cobra rebuild kit should do it for me?
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 08:58 PM
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Yes, a 96-98 Cobra rebuild kit would work.

-Rod

Rod @ AzzKicker Cars
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90 XR7-The Meth Addict-KB SC'd 5.0L DOHC Stroker
2004 Mustang GT-The Driver-Intake/Exhaust/3.73's
1995 F150 4x4-The Mud Toy-5.0L/4R70W/33's/Warn 8274 Winch
94 LX w/Splitport 3.8L from 2000 Mustang - SOLD
2 - 90 35th Anny Ed SC's
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar
Rebuilding these engines takes quite a few specialized tools and knowledge (take cam alignment for instance). It isn't anything like rebuilding a SBC engine.
Ditto, and a mistake can be fatal(to the engine).

I don't mind learning new things, but buying special tools for what is most likely a one-time deal? I think I'll leave it to the experts.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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I think between where I work "autozone" and my dads collection of tools I'll be able to get the job done. I want to do this myself though and prove to my dad that I can do it.

The cams should timing marks on them to help you assemble them no? I'll do alot of research before I tear into it.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 10:00 PM
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The first thing I would do is lay my hands on a factory manual and read through the rebuild procedure. That should orient you enough to make wise decisions.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Whats the easiest way to remove the engine? Up and over the front? or out the bottom?
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-09-2006, 11:47 PM
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From what I recall ford recomends raising the car on a lift and dropping the k-member and dropping the engine out the bottom, it can also be done from the top though, it really is your call, and is only limited to what tools/equipment you have access to.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-10-2006, 07:03 AM
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If you have access to a lift that you can tie up for a while then dropping it with the K is pretty easy. If you have to drop it and put the car back to rolling condition while you work on the engine, then not so much advantage to that way though.
What needs to be fixed on this engine anyway? With all of the torque to yield bolts and the price of gaskets, this venture will get very expensive very quick. I would say to safely plan on at least $1000 if you don't have to get new pistons or have any machine work done. A master rebuild kit will probably run in the neighborhood of $700 with no cams or lifters and you will still have to buy new head bolts, rod bolts and main bolts at the very minimum.
Remember, that is $1000 without replacement cams and lifters, without pistons and not including any machine work.
These things are not cheap to rebuild.

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-10-2006, 09:11 AM
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Hey Ross,you know where I'm at-gimme a call or drop by someday and we can talk about what all you need.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-10-2006, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Johnny. Will do.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-10-2006, 10:18 AM
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Hey Ross,you know where I'm at-gimme a call or drop by someday and we can talk about what all you need.
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Best advice yet!

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-10-2006, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah Johnny knows his stuff. I went over one day to check his car out.

Between me, my dad, and Mr. Langton I'll git r done




Ill get in touch with you this weekend maybe. I have jason's number so I'll get yours from him.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-10-2006, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
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Yeah Johnny knows his stuff. I went over one day to check his car out.

Between me, my dad, and Mr. Langton I'll git r done




Ill get in touch with you this weekend maybe. I have jason's number so I'll get yours from him.
No problem-I should be around somewhere...It's supposed to be raining,so I'll be stuck at home for once.
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-10-2006, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
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it's a lot cheaper to just exchange the engine for a used lo-mileage unit .
Hey I resemble that remark!

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