P0750 P1000, cel wasnt on...help? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-11-2006, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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P0750 P1000, cel wasnt on...help?

Update/edit:
Well i loose and get back 1st/4th gear randomly and both first and last gears fight with 2nd/3rd randomly also. when i do have 1st gear or 4th they seem fine and drive pretty well. no check engine light and no o/d light flashing mad as well

Ive replaced/checked the following:
-New Shift Solenoids
-New MLPS "range sensor"
-Electronic Pressure Control within range
-Different Electronic Control Unit
-New Filter/Fluid Change at correct fluid level
-Computer memory reset

Im running out of options and im starting to think the tranny might need a rebuild with new clutches maybe going bad. Anyone else have any suggestions on what to move onto next?

Still get codes P0750 and P1000. when i swapped in a different ecu i didnt get the P0750 code but i still got the P1000 code.

P0750 - Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P1000 - OBD2 Testing incomplete

All help is appreciated.

Last edited by Porkchop; 10-23-2006 at 04:09 PM.
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-11-2006, 09:08 PM
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That is exactly what happens if SS1 is always off, only 2nd and 3rd gear.

SS1 always off - only 2nd and 3rd gear
SS2 always off - only 1st and second gear
SS1 always on - only 1st and 4th
SS2 always on - only 3rd and 4th

(above all depend on the gear selector to be in D(OD).

SS1 always off will result in second gear only if gear selector is in 1 or 2, there will be no engine braking in 1st or second selected when the car commands 3rd or 4th.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-11-2006, 09:47 PM
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Has your battery been disconnected, or you've turned your check engine light off. Any time you disconnect the battery or clear Check engine light. You will always get a p1000. It just means a drive cycle needs done, most of the time. If after driving for a lengthy period or actually performing a drive cycle, it's still there you could have a PCM problem. First thing is to do some driving and go from there.
Steve

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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-11-2006, 10:12 PM
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Before dropping the pan or the PCM, I would make sure the external harness from the tranny is connected to the harness from the vehicle, if it is, then ohn out the SS1 pin across the PWR, should be.. 20 to 30 ohms I think for a 95... If it is zero, then I would drop the pan and check that it is plugged it, and check the SS directly for 20 to 30 ohms, and continuity on the SS1 line from external plug to internal plug. If it checks out, then I guess it either the PCM or mechanical, but you have the CEL for the SS1 being always open and the indications that it is always open with not having 1st or 4th.

SS1 is the one on the right of http://members.tccoa.com/porkchop2oo2/95vb1.jpg I am pretty sure, the one closest to the bore for the tranny filter.




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97 Cougar 4.6 Sport/White Opalescent Tricoat Metallic /Gray leather down but not out?
89 Cougar LS 3.8/Oxford White/Gray velour/HG need replaced AGAIN
00 Grand Marquis LS/Vibrant White/Gray velour
63 Falcon 302/black and rust/shed isn't moving
82 F-150/Oxford White/dumb VV carb doesn't pass emissions

Last edited by Bangster; 10-11-2006 at 10:20 PM.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-11-2006, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangster
Before dropping the pan or the PCM, I would make sure the external harness from the tranny is connected to the harness from the vehicle, if it is, then ohn out the SS1 pin across the PWR, should be.. 20 to 30 ohms I think for a 95... If it is zero, then I would drop the pan and check that it is plugged it, and check the SS directly for 20 to 30 ohms, and continuity on the SS1 line from external plug to internal plug. If it checks out, then I guess it either the PCM or mechanical, but you have the CEL for the SS1 being always open and the indications that it is always open with not having 1st or 4th.

SS1 is the one on the right of http://members.tccoa.com/porkchop2oo2/95vb1.jpg I am pretty sure, the one closest to the bore for the tranny filter.

http://shutter13.pictures.aol.com/da...qp7PW-0196.jpg

http://shutter13.pictures.aol.com/da...-u39W30159.jpg
first off i didnt have a cel on. the bulb works and it doesnt turn on when the car when was running. today i just did it for the hell of it
where is the external harness for the tranny? i have metal t-pins so i can measure if theres continuity going to the harness or not. if theres no measurement obviously it could be a faulty pcm but if theres a measurement going to the ss then i guess time to swap it.

Next question is the valvebody that is currently on is a 99gt version, now can i use my previous *95vb* ss on that valvebody? if not anyone got a part number or proper label of what it is?
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 07:47 AM
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Yes, but you can get new ones for about $30 off of the net. . . .
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com (http://tinyurl.com/fsnuv for the exact part) or
http://www.bulkpart.com
(http://tinyurl.com/ghk37 for the exact part)

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
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1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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coolness. the reason why i ask is cuz on that site it lists 92-97 and then 98+ solenoids. i guess they are not inter changable? i have the 99 gt mustang valvebody so maybe the 95 tbird valvebody solenoids wouldnt fit.

anyone know where the external harness is si u can check to see if its loose?

-Mike
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 11:38 AM
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The reason for the 98 and newer is for the connector style. If you have not changed the internal wiring on your transmission to the hard board and repinned your car for it then you definitely need the 92-97 solenoid style.
In easier terms, if you have wires on the inside of the pan area then you need the 92-97 style. If you have a black hard plastic connector board then you need the 98+.

Darrin

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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o i used the regular wires that came with the valvevody. they look identical to the 95 harness. so i should use the 92-97 style then darrin?

thanx in advance
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-12-2006, 03:46 PM
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You can buy a new harness for INSIDE the transmission from Transmission Parts USA for $20 if you want a new one. . . . .going away now. . . .

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Installation of Jerry's Shift Improver Kit
NOTE: IF YOU ARE INSTALLING A NEW 1999 MAIN CONTROL UNIT (or any new main control unit for that matter), YOU MUST USE YOUR ORIGINAL SHIFT SOLENOIDS (7G484), TOT SENSOR (7H141) the black plastic tab attached to the main controls cover, TCC SOLENOID (7G136), and the EPC SOLENOID located in the transmission case (7G383)*. Using the incorrect year solenoids will result in pre-mature failure of these electronic devices. If you need to replace any one of these parts, use the one from your year and transmission**.
hmmmm well that kinda makes sense seeing how i used the 99 solenoids and tcc solenoid. hahaha if you use a different year solenoid it will fail pre-maturely.

crap...lol o wells at least its gonna be free seeing how i kept the old parts.

but i did buy this used with low miles off a local member. not sure if he swapped over his solenoids but if he did he had a different year mn12 anyways.

my only question left is a lazy question to ask. when I drop the pan tomorrow how much fluid should i expect to add when im finished? 4,5,6 quarts of mercon v?
thanx for sticking with me guys and explaining which solenoid is which. i really need to find my chiltons book.

-Mike
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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 10:10 AM
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That thing you quoted is incorrect. The only solenoid that you MUST reuse is the TCC and that is only if you have a 94-95 Thunderbird or Cougar. Jerry never said what you have quoted there. Those are the words of someone else and they are not accurate. The person that wrote that must have been using the "better safe than sorry" mentality and obviously meant well, but it is not accurate. I will see if I can talk to someone to get that changed so nobody else gets confused about this again.
The only one that was ever different electronically in these cars is the TCC solenoid. In the 94-95 Thunderbirds and Cougars the resistance across the solenoid should be between 1 and 3 ohms and on the 96-97's it should be between 10 and 16 ohms.

Its important to have good information to help you. Please ask when you need it.
Check the resistance of the TCC to make sure you are using the right one. You need one with 1-3 ohm resistance. The TCC is the one that is there next to the shift solenoid pack. Someone already posted the correct info on the shift solenoids.

Have about 5 quarts ready.

Darrin

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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrin
That thing you quoted is incorrect. The only solenoid that you MUST reuse is the TCC and that is only if you have a 94-95 Thunderbird or Cougar. Jerry never said what you have quoted there. Those are the words of someone else and they are not accurate. The person that wrote that must have been using the "better safe than sorry" mentality and obviously meant well, but it is not accurate. I will see if I can talk to someone to get that changed so nobody else gets confused about this again.
The only one that was ever different electronically in these cars is the TCC solenoid. In the 94-95 Thunderbirds and Cougars the resistance across the solenoid should be between 1 and 3 ohms and on the 96-97's it should be between 10 and 16 ohms.

Its important to have good information to help you. Please ask when you need it.
Check the resistance of the TCC to make sure you are using the right one. You need one with 1-3 ohm resistance. The TCC is the one that is there next to the shift solenoid pack. Someone already posted the correct info on the shift solenoids.

Have about 5 quarts ready.

Darrin
ok well just measured my original tcc and it read 1.5 ohms so ill replace that as well. i got that info from our tech articles, i guess its time for an update lol.

thanx darrin
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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Domesticbird
ok well just measured my original tcc and it read 1.5 ohms so ill replace that as well. i got that info from our tech articles, i guess its time for an update lol.

thanx darrin
I already turned in a correction for that one. I honestly never read it through before.

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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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the shift cable on the side comes off by prying it off with like a flat head?

i had a buddy help me with this more than a year ago and i guess i forgot on how he removed that cable on the side. the car is up on jackstands till she cools down. almost burned myself touching that pan. and i only drove 2 miles round trip to get some mercon.....geeezz

-Mike
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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 12:16 PM
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Might install a tranny cooler if you don't already have one! The shift cable is connected via a 13mm nut on the end of the cable (connected to the MLPS) and a 13 mm nut on the mounting bracket near the end of the pan. If you are talking about the wiring harness then it is attached with one of those lovely Ford electrical pigtails that we all LOVE sooooooooo much. If you can't get to it with your hands then a flat head can be used, but be careful.

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
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1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:
Installed a different shift solenoid and problem is still here! i checked the tcc solenoid and it was a 1.5ohm. put new filter and 5 quarts of mercon v while i was at it btw.

Wires *internal/external* - Check
Solenoids - Check
Check engine Light - None Check
Fluid Level - Check

Still dont have First gear even when manually putting the shifter in "Drive" or "Low" *1st gear*
Still dont have O/D *4th gear* and no crazy blinking od or cel lights

What next? Should i replace the pcm?
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-13-2006, 08:55 PM
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Man, its hard to say. There are a couple of cars having electrical trouble with the transmission right now and its a hard way to go on troubleshooting.

Darrin

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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-14-2006, 01:48 AM Thread Starter
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yea i know, trouble shooting is fun

i do strongly believe that its the ecu seeing how i did more than a drive cycle today and it still gave me that p1000 code. plus the cel doesnt come on even with the bulb not burned out. and the only thread where ive seen someone fix this 1/4 gears not working ending up being a pcm problem. he even put in a new tranny and thought that would of fixed it. ouch

to any of the cali guys out here if you see any 94-95 tbirds w/ v8 with the code h5t0 let me know or grab it for me
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-21-2006, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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well grabbed a different ecu off a 95 v8 tbird. i have 4th gear back but now 1st gear keeps fighting 2nd gear randomly.

example:
Im at a stop sign and when i press on the throttle it starts in 2nd gear, then about 1000rpm later it will jump back to 1st gear.

then 1000rpm before its supposed to shift it goes into 2nd gear.

4th gear has seen to have come back and havent had any issues with it yet.

Ive replaced the shift solenoids/tranny fluid-filter change/different ecu/reset computer memory/all wire-harness looked good

Now what do i do now? someone said something about checking the external wiring to and from the tranny. i checked all the internal wires and they were good. the external wires are the only thing i havent really checked and a loose harness may be the culprit?

This car is really starting to bug me.

Last edited by Porkchop; 10-23-2006 at 05:57 PM.
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-21-2006, 11:26 PM
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This sounds like it is an MLPS. . . .make sure the shift cable is properly adjusted. If not, adjust it and take a test drive. If it is in the proper place without "slack" in the shift cable, then the MLPS probably needs to be replaced.

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-22-2006, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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geeezz other than a mlps what else could it be? if it ends up being the mllps im gonna be bummed seeing how everyone i talked to first said it wouldnt be that lol
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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TTT please
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 04:30 PM
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Porkchop,

What is the latest? Is post #20 still the current state? or is the update on post #1 the current state? I am a bit confused. . . .my previous post was related to post #20, but if the latest update is on post #1 then I am lost. If I answered the correct update then all I can say is that you never know when a bad MLPS will strike and it is usually after something else has been fixed. (at least this is my experience )

Keep me posted. . . .I am still trying to help.

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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sorry for the confusion. post #1 is the latest update
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 08:20 PM
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From the 1994 PC/ED Manual

TC1
DTC 0750 indicates SS1 electrical malfunction.

Possible Causes:

-- Solenoid assembly damaged.

-- PCM damaged.

-- VPWR circuit open or shorted to GND.

-- Solenoid circuit open or, shorted to VPWR or GND.

Key off.

Disconnect transmission connector.

Using a mirror, inspect both ends of the connector for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

Disconnect electrical connector on the speed control servo, if equipped.

Connect DVOM positive test lead to the VPWR circuit and negative test lead to the transmission solenoid circuit at the transmission vehicle harness connector.

Key on, engine off.

Turn on Scan Tool outputs with the trigger button. (Refer to «Section 2», Diagnostic Methods, Output State Diagnostic Test Mode, if using a generic scan tool.)

Observe transmission solenoid voltage reading on the DVOM and record.

Cycle the Scan Tool trigger button on and off several times.

Does the transmission solenoid circuit cycle 0.5 volts or greater on the DVOM?

Yes
REFER to Service Manual, Transmission Diagnosis for internal harness and solenoids.

No
GO to «TC2».


TC2
SOLENOID

Key off.

Disconnect transmission connector.

Using a mirror, inspect both ends of the connector for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

Key on, engine off.

Measure voltage between the VPWR pins at the transmission vehicle harness connector and chassis/battery ground.

Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts?

Yes
GO to «TC3».

No
SERVICE open in VPWR circuit.
RECONNECT all components.
COMPLETE PCM reset to clear DTC.
RERUN «Quick Test».


TC3
OF SOLENOID SIGNAL AND VPWR HARNESS CIRCUIT

Key off.

Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.

Measure resistance between the VPWR pins at the transmission vehicle harness connector and Test Pin 71/97 at the breakout box.

Measure resistance between the suspect solenoid signal pin at the vehicle harness connector and the same suspect solenoid signal pin at the breakout box.

Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?

Yes
GO to «TC4».

No
SERVICE open circuit.
REMOVE breakout box.
RECONNECT all components.
RERUN «Quick Test».


TC4
CIRCUIT FOR SHORT

Key off.

Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.

Transmission connector disconnected.

Refer to «schematic and table» in this Pinpoint Test.

Measure resistance between the suspect solenoid signal pin and Test Pins 71/97 at the breakout box.

Measure resistance between the suspect solenoid signal pin and Test Pins 51/76 and 91 at the breakout box and chassis ground.

Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?

Yes
REPLACE PCM.
REMOVE breakout box.
RECONNECT all components.
COMPLETE PCM reset to clear DTC.
RERUN «Quick Test».

No
SERVICE short circuits.
REMOVE breakout box.
RECONNECT all components.
RERUN «Quick Test».


QC1
TROUBLE CODE P1000: CHECK FOR OTHER DTCS

This pinpoint test should be used only if a DTC P1000 was received in Continuous Memory. Ignore any P1000s in KOEO or KOER.

DTC P1000 indicates that all of the OBD II monitors have not yet been successfully tested.

Were any other DTCs received with the P1000?

Yes
GO to the Powertrain DTC Chart («Section 5») for Pinpoint Test direction and service the DTC.

No
No EEC-V system faults have been detected.
GO to «QC2».


QC2
REQUEST TO REMOVE P1000

A complete OBD II Drive Cycle has not yet been performed to remove the DTC P1000 from the PCM.

Has the customer requested the P1000 be removed from the PCM memory?

Yes
PERFORM the OBD II Drive Cycle. (REFER to «Section 2», Drive Cycles.) If DTC P1000 is still present, GO to «QC3».

No
No faults in the EEC-V system have been detected.
INFORM the customer that if the law in this state requires additional driving in order to remove the DTC P1000 from the PCM memory, it must be performed before an inspection/ maintenance test.
RETURN to «Section 4» if any other symptoms are present.


QC3
CHECK VSS PID

Perform a short road test and look for a change in the VSS PID.

Was the VSS PID greater than zero MPH/KPH?

Yes
GO to «QC4».

No
SERVICE open VSS circuit. PERFORM the OBD II Drive Cycle. RERUN «Quick Test».


QC4
CHECK ECT TEMPERATURE

Drive the vehicle long enough to obtain the highest engine operating temperature and record the ECT temperature PID.

Was the ECT PID reading greater than 180°F/82°C?

Yes
Additional driving is required. PERFORM the OBD II Drive Cycle. RERUN «Quick Test».

No
REPLACE the cooling system thermostat. PERFORM the OBD II Drive Cycle. RERUN «Quick Test».

__________________________________________________ _________________________

Note about "Quick Test":

Quick Test is divided into three specialized tests:

(1) Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test

(2) Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test

(3) Continuous Memory DTC Access

All three are described below.

Quick Test checks the integrity and function of the EEC-V Powertrain Control system and outputs the test results upon demand. Quick Test also provides a quick end check of the powertrain control system and is usually performed at the start of each diagnostic procedure. It is also performed at the end of most pinpoint tests for verification of repair and to make sure no other faults were incurred while servicing a previous fault.

Accessing Continuous Test to retrieve MIL DTCs can easily be performed by any scan tool that meets the OBD II requirements. However, when performing KOEO, KOER Self-Test or retrieving all Continuous DTCs using a generic scan tool, it will take additional manually entered commands. All self-tests are completely menu driven in the New Generation Star (NGS) scan tool.

NOTE:
New for EEC-V, retrieving Continuous DTCs must be performed separately from KOEO Quick Test.


From what I'm reading in the TC test section, you may be fighting a circuit problem (shorted/open circuit or something)...
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alright i guess ill have to get into that tomorrow. where is the transmission vehicle harness connector located?
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-23-2006, 09:30 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Tomball, TX
Age: 42
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The transmission harness is connected to a square pigtail on the Transmission crossmember (driver's side). It includes the connectors for the rear two O2 sensors, TPS, MLPS, OSS and main transmission connector (connected to the TCC, EPC, Shift Solenoid and pressure sensor).

Currently In the Short Bus Garage:
2 - '94 T-bird LX's 4.6L (one with 300,000+ miles and one with 200,000+ miles)
1 - '97 Mark VIII LSC - INTECH V8 (120,000+ miles)
1 - '97 F150 XLT 4x4 Flareside, 4.6L (130,000+ miles) - Currently being dismantled and rebuilt with upgrades!
1 - '00 Mustang GT (likes to accelerate with the brake on!), 4.6L (60,000+ miles - only comes out when I need to get somewhere fast.)

oh yeah, and they all have 4R70W's
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