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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-28-2006, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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rebuild kit recommendations

well it was a cold day and when i fired up my bird i notice the condensation coming from my passenger side pipe had a lil oil in it so its time to start planning on building my mark vIII motor. my two big questions are what kit do you recommend for a 5.0/5.2 build and where would you get it from. and also does anybody have any recommendations for somebody to do the shortblock work. i'm located smack dab in the middle of iowa so i'd like to keep the drive time reasonable. thanks, Dave
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-28-2006, 09:15 PM
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a shop like arnolds motor supply may be able to do it but im not for sure, i have two in my area but i live a little ways from you.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 01:15 AM
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www.modularperformance.com have someone who knows 4V motors do it. OR you can send it off to south florida and have Al Papitto do the work, but tht will cost more in shipping.




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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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we've got an arnolds in ames but i'm kinda wiery to send it there just cause i'm sure they don't get a lot of performance motor rebuilds there.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 02:52 PM
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Finding a shop that can do a mod engine is hard to do. Al is the man with them if I were going to pay someone to completely build my engine for me it would be Al.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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what about if all i wanted was to get the short block prepped? by that i mean remove the sleeves, bore and install the new sleeves. any recomendations?
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 03:55 PM
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Make sure the shop has a torque plate to sleeve one of these motors. If you are going that far I suggest going big bore.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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yup i planned on big boring it then doing the assembly myself
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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for the big bore do they remove the sleeves and actually bore it or is it just as simple as using a new sleeve with a larger inner diameter?
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 07:59 PM
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I don't build engines so I can't be exact I believe they remove the sleeves bore the block then install an oversized sleeve.
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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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k, do you guys feel its necessary to upgrade crankshafts for my purpose? i'm definitely planning on going with a big bore set up and most likely super charged. i'm currently working on acquiring a set of cobra connecting rods.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 01:55 PM
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no, cast crank is fine.




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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Great Obucina
no, cast crank is fine.
Agreed. The parts you need to worry about are the rods and pistons.

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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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k, sweet. thanks again
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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say rod is there anyone in the great state of mizzou (preferably the northern half) that you would recommend for the job? it would just be another excuse for me to drive to missouri and see my high school buddy.
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 08:10 PM
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Nobody that I know of. If I ever blow mine up, I'll probably either go with ModularPerformance or Al.

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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k, thanks
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 08:57 AM
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hey let me now i'l hook u up my dad and i have a machine shop. thats where i built my motor at its a 4.6 sohc bore .020 over forged manley platinum series pistons , frrp i beam racing rods polished heads. it's located in south west iowa, atlantic , ia . its called the engine shops he's been in the business for 30 years very good work i've been helping him out for about 5 years, we build stock car motors , high performance, pretty much anything. we have every machine to do the work. let me know he's very reasonable, and builds them to the specs u want but yea let me know i could probably knock the price down some to for u.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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sweet thanks alot fastbird, i've been through atlantic a few times so it shouldn't be too tough to find. i'm hoping to do the shortblock this coming summer (prolly late) then continue with the rest from there. i noticed on the heads that there are a couple of chips out of the cam journals from shipping issues. would you guys be able to weld in a little material and smooth them out? they aren't serious by any means and i could get you pics if you like. thanks, Dave
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 10:31 AM
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yea should be able to weld them up. yea if u want send some pics to me. that'll work out yea i notice a big power increace after i did my motor, it's has a lot more low end torque than it used to milling the heads down was my biggest increase and balancing the motor to compinsate for the new rods and pistons i can run 7 grand all day long. 5 grand is where u motors inbalance is at if u balance it to those specs u will gain more horsepower in those rpm ranges. hot tanking the block, boring it and honing it is all $120 for all 3 very cheap , most guys charge like $ 300 to do that.
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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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wow that's not bad at all. do u see any problem using the cobra rod's i got bought? they are supposed to be reman's so i guess we'd have to check the clearances and see if anything has been changed. i'm defintely doing the big bore kit and i was looking into a set of flattop pistons that supposedly will raise the compression of a dohc to 11 to 1. i figure if i do that with the right cam's and shouldn't have any reason to spend the money on a supercharger. i'm also considering building my own long tube headers since i will be putting a full frame under the car with a mustang II front end.
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 11:11 AM
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no i didn't have any problems with mine and there cobra rods the only differents on them in there made out of thicker steel they are alittle thicker but had no clearance issues or anything. i disided to go with them because when i took my motor apart i relized how thin the stock rods are and plus i had to bent rods to i spent 250 bucks and got a new set of i beam racing rods balanced it, then total wieght between both stock and aftermarket when balancing was only 20 grams difference. aand what we do far a checking clearance on cams put playdough in and put together check it and then we now if vavles need shimmed up or not. most of the time not depending on how big of cams.
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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k, that's good to hear. am i right in assuming the cost will go up since we will have to pull the old sleeves, bore the block, then resleeve it for the big bore? this is a teksid (mark vIII) aluminum block in case u didn't catch that before
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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oh i forgot to mention there's a good chance i'll have an internship at the biodiesel plant in ralston this summer which if i get it i'll have full time employment there when i graduate next december. that'll put be me prolly what half the distance closer to you from ames?
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 09:20 PM
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well depending on how big the sleeve is u as in thickness u can just bore the sleeve instead of getting new ones most sleeves are about a 1/8 inch thick. the most i have seen ppl boreing these blocks out 4.6 , and 5.4 is .040 over i personally think .060 is to much , yes u'll gain alot of power, but also going to heat the motor up more cause ur getting really close to the water gallies, i'm going to college at iowa western in council bluffs all year round so it would make it easier on u too drop off stuff there and i'll take it to atlantic. but thats all on depending what u want to do. and if u want the shop number it's 712-243-1037 the engine shop, rick is my dad hes the only one that runs it i help him out when i can get time off of school. and i'm bryce and if u would like my number its 712-621-4360. later
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