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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Bullitt intake install pictorial...

For those interested in a installing Bullitt intake swap I am working on a little pictorial on the installation of one in my 5.4L. Different engine and all but, most of the stuff will apply to a 4.6L...

There are lots of pictures so 56K beware... Since there are parts list published all over the place I decided to show how it was done pictorially... Enjoy...

Here is the link...



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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 08:31 PM
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definitely a fun, involved, and intimate process


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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-30-2006, 11:22 PM
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 12:30 AM
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I read you used silicone hose on the EGR...I wouldn't, as silicone is not rated for hydrocarbons, burned or unburned. I found some Aeroquip 666 hose that is a teflon w/ stainless braid. It's rated for 450°, better than the silicone hose I found, and it is rated for hydrocarbons.




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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 07:40 AM
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flexible..high temp hose?..... how much and where?

of course, i still can't get my egr valve off the damn tubing....


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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 11:24 AM
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I got mine from aircraft spruce. Summit has some, but not in 5/8" ID for the EGR tube.




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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenBird
I read you used silicone hose on the EGR...I wouldn't, as silicone is not rated for hydrocarbons, burned or unburned. I found some Aeroquip 666 hose that is a teflon w/ stainless braid. It's rated for 450°, better than the silicone hose I found, and it is rated for hydrocarbons.
OEM hose on the DPFE is Silicone.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 01:41 PM
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 02:46 PM
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 08:11 PM
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So what RPM did you tune the intake for? You did do runner length calculations I hope.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Never get enough of that google ad!

Good questrion! OEM hose is silicon. I am not 100% sure but the temperature rating is somewhere around 300-400 deg F. This was a concern and we discussed the subject...



When cats fail the EGR lines tend to get hot and this hose will melt. Hydrocarbons - did not think about that one... Though braided hose may be stronger we do not have that enough pressure to really need it. But if you ask me the teflon part should give a higher temperature resistance.

The problem would be greater if the EGR tube was shorter. For example in a mustang application the EGR tube is much shorter so the heat will dissipate to the hose faster.

Since my EGR tube is a 1995 tube lengthened by at least 4" for the 5.4L engine I assumed that was risk was low as long as the diameter of the hose was small. Besides, all I had was a bunch of silicone hose... Given enough time copper tube with swagelock fittings can be made to do the job. Now you are talking high temperature!!!! But All I had was two days...

Now the larger diameter EGR tube was more of concern with the silicon. I have seen it used with some intake swaps but, I did not like the idea. So I went shopping...


Now this stuff can handle high temperatures!

Truth be told we spent a few hours playing with hard tubing the first day. There is a chance we could have finished in day one if we did not go brain dead (may have been the beer) and play too much with the copper tubing...

Anyhow I will post the solution this weekend...

Sorry, so many pictures and so little time...

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 10-31-2006, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fusion0507
So what RPM did you tune the intake for? You did do runner length calculations I hope.
This thread is more about the install but i will gladly digress...

I did calculations beforehand but in the end I did not get much choice with the runner length. The runners could only be so short. Not short enough to be ideal for a 5.4L engine. There were many things that I did not get much of a choice in with the intake. When I split the Bullit intake runners the walls were extremely thin...



I burnt out two Deremels with this job!

Fast Freddie cut many of them apart and welded in plates to straighten them. As a result the insides are ruff and have some thin metal near the surface... I thought about extrude hone but they do not recommend the process for welded areas... After 9 months of playing with the intake, I basically decided that I wanted to make Summer Blast so I stopped porting and installed the puppy... Maybe another day I will take it off and port it some more...

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Langton
OEM hose on the DPFE is Silicone.
JL
True, but I couldn't find any of the OEM type hose anyway, plus the DPFE doesn't see flow like the main tube.

To fit an EGR on my bullitt intake I cut the stock tube before it makes the two 90* bends. Was able to rotate the bottom some to gain clearance for the coolant adapter, and the top part I cut before the first bend. I then used a insulated hose clamp on the rear driver bolt of the bullitt elbow. It's close to being too small a radius for the hose, but it's not kinked.




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Last edited by GreenBird; 11-02-2006 at 02:15 AM.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 08:40 AM
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what about running full length from the egr valve direct to the manifold and turn off the dpfe?


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 11:00 AM
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People have done it.




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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-01-2006, 06:21 PM
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we using clamps, fittings, or what? the manifold has an interesting thread


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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2006, 02:14 AM
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I'm using insulated hose clamps so there's no metal on metal.

I have a section of EGR tubing with the DPFE tubes if you want it. Leftover from my failed attempt to make a custom EGR tube (all metal).




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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-02-2006, 09:31 PM
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as do i.... mine is from egr to final curve to the manifold...

failed attempt as well.. bullitt intakes egr port is pretty high up


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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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I left the tube bender at home so we tried to bend the EGR by hand. Bend it a little. Replace the intake and see how it lines up... Bend some and repeat... Just was not working by hand.

The compromise was a combination of hard tube and braided silicone.


Emphasis was placed on limiting the exposure of the silicon to the heat. The tube was end to end in the silicone. Hopefully the limited exposure to heat the distance from the exhaust will prevent melting. Only time will tell..



More update pictures...

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Last edited by J.Miller; 11-05-2006 at 10:36 AM.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 11:32 AM
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John, that high temp hose won't last. Tried it several times before. Had to finally build a completely new tube and weld it all up.

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 04:43 PM
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Lonnie, what do you think of my teflon/stainless hose? It only goes about as far down as the very top of the bellhousing.




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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-04-2006, 07:12 PM
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I have tried to repair EGR tubes like that a few times myself. Once just to fix a cracked one, however it didn't work for me. I would think if you could find a copper pipe that fit well over it you could bend it up and solder it on. I don't expect the silicone hose will last very long, it never has for me. I've never tried to run it on such a long piece. I once tried that on my bronco II which only had about 8-9 inches of tube anyway. Me and a buddy tried it once again on his f-150 knowing it was only a temporary fix and it lasted about a month. Fortunately every vehicle I tried it on before had the option of buying a new OE one.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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What are the symptoms when the silicon fails?

I think this spring I will get the tube bender and bend the 5/8" OD copper tube. Welding should not be needed since 5/8" swagelok fittings fit.

I just may do it in stainless steel tubing... You can get SST fittings rated over 1,000 deg F.

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 11:16 AM
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The silicone hose will melt and blow out over time. You'll know it is failed because it melts like candle wax at the temperatures. I never understood how the stuff worked so well on the airpump connections to the cat converter I guess the air from the air pump keeps it cooled.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Well.. I guess if it fails that bad I will get a code? I drove it a few hundred miles to summer blast and etc. It seems ok. Could be as I suspected the longer tube actually caused the gasses to cool a little... Still I think I will upgrade to SST because eventually I will be driving in high heat... ** EDIT ** Just checked and I have 5,000 miles on the tube. I do not think there is a issue with my car... But I will check... ** EEDIT **

I only wish I could post the pictures here. But there are way too many and my access does not allow me to post a few hundred pictures... So you can find the complete install pictures are here....

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-06-2006, 10:37 PM
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When I first put the Cobra intake in the Mark I ran a short piece just off the egr. the pipe was butted together also. It would last about 4 days, melt down, became crispy critter and blew out. Got tried of it real fast so I welded up a new pipe.

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post #27 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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It could be your hose selection? You have to get high temperature. Or it could be your location? I have many miles on mine and it is fine so far...

Here are some instructions from the Fox lake P51 intake for Mustangs.





I would assume that if the hose is too close to the engine or the exhaust it would have issues. As you see above both Foxlake and myself have elected to allow for several inches of tube before the hose for heat dissipation...

I agree 100% it would is preferred to weld them. But the best way to do that is with the engine removed from the car and assembled on a stand (I have some pictures of examples, if there is interest, I will try to post them later). Not all of us have that option. High temperature compression fittings are a viable substitute....

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post #28 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 09:42 AM
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That's the same type hose that I used and it was closer to the EGR, high temp braided.

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post #29 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 12:22 AM
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The P51 deal is different. They aren't lengthening the tube. The entire hose is still "lined" with the original tube.

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post #30 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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An inner pipe should be mandatory...

Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenBird
...I found some Aeroquip 666 hose that is a teflon w/ stainless braid. It's rated for 450°, better than the silicone hose I found, and it is rated for hydrocarbons.

I do not think 450 will be enough. I found some low pressure metal stainless steel flexible hose that should do the trick. Swagelok FL Series can handle from vacuum to 840 PSI and -325 to 850 deg F. Get the 5/8" hose with 3/4" FNPT ends, add some MNPT to 5/8" compression adaptors and you have one good EGR tube (I still would not use it close to the exhaust though). Cost around $100-$200.

Any more Bullit intake install questions?

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Last edited by J.Miller; 11-09-2006 at 08:09 PM.
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