Cam Recommendation - TCCoA Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Cam Recommendation

This is for the 5.0 I just threw into my 90SC.

Decided to start looking at cams, since the explorer cam is trash and causes the car to fall on its face around 4500.

Was looking at what others have used in their cobras, and it all comes back to a Steeda #19, Crane 2031, or the E cam. But at the same time I see people talk shit about those "old" cams. I spoke with a tech at comp, and he recommended the xe270hr (#35-324-8), which has .544 lift both intake and exhaust. I think that may cause piston to valve issues, but Idk for sure. So, what would be a good cam for a stock motor? What parts besides rockers, springs, and retainers would you recommend?

Info on the motor:
motor is complete from a 96 explorer, not even a valve cover removed. GT40 non "p" heads with explorer GT40 intake. Only mod are some BBK long tubes, so bascially nothing.
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First: Stacie, 1996 Tbird LX, mild build NPI engine, PI cams and intake, Long tube headers, Jmod.

Second: Ellie, 1989 Tbird SC, r̶e̶s̶t̶o̶r̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶d̶a̶i̶l̶y̶. off the deep end

Third: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500, thirsty daily.

Fourth: 1990 Tbird SC, GT40 5.0 mated to m5r2, BBK long tubes, motor out the hood, drift car.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 06:31 PM
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Not to steal your thread - but what did you do if anything to make it fit and work?

Any details would be appreciated.

RwP

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 07:38 PM
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I always liked the "B" cam with the GT40 heads. Not as much lift as the "E", but more duration, which made for a nice sound at idle, and plenty of power from 2500-6000. Looking up the specs on that Steeda cam, it seems to be pretty close to the "B". The crane looks to be too tame and not worth the effort of the swap, and the comp XE270hr is going to be way too much cam for the rest of that motor. My advice would be B303 cam, upgraded valve springs, and leave the rockers alone.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
Not to steal your thread - but what did you do if anything to make it fit and work?

Any details would be appreciated.

RwP
I did the bare minimum to be honest. From starting work on the car to being able to drive it around, it was three weeks. The motor mounts are a combination of the stock SC lowers and drilled-to-fit explorer uppers.

I used an M5R2 cause I had the one from my white 89 laying around. Had to get a 95 F150 starter, flywheel, and clutch kit. Then it just bolted up.

I used the stock explorer intake, un touched. Needed to use the explorer throttle cable, then cobbled an intake tube out of my 89s CAI tube and my 96s OEM rubber that was cut up. Then used a mustang filter box so the explorer maf would bolt up.

Electronics wise, I ran the explorer stuff as a stand alone. Theres a write up on classicbroncos.com by a Garry, also known as the EFIguy, on how to strip out the harness, re pin a couple connectors, what wires to connect to the relay panel, how to wire the fuse panel, what wires to bring in the cab for the OBD and gauges, what imputs to keep and for what reasons, ect. Dudes a genius, and you can email him. He also has 3 videos on youtube thatll walk you through the process. I didnt find this stuff until AFTER I ran through some issues on my gauges.

Now, somethings I did were a hack job because, well, this car isnt gonna be winning best in show trophies. Rad fan is controlled by a relay thats controlled by a switch in the cab.
I bypassed the inertia switch for the fuel pump because it was causing the car to not start.
And then I ran into my gauge issue, which I still havent figured out but for now I have my phone telling me what the computer sees through a bluetooth OBD scanner.

And I tricked the explorer EEC into thinking its always in nuetral, so it doesnt try to shift itself, prepare for TC lockup, or anyother weird things it might have wanted to try. As far as the computers concerned, Im revving it in the driveway.

Also with the wiring I had to add, I am using a gatorade bottle as a coolant overflow.

First: Stacie, 1996 Tbird LX, mild build NPI engine, PI cams and intake, Long tube headers, Jmod.

Second: Ellie, 1989 Tbird SC, r̶e̶s̶t̶o̶r̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶d̶a̶i̶l̶y̶. off the deep end

Third: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500, thirsty daily.

Fourth: 1990 Tbird SC, GT40 5.0 mated to m5r2, BBK long tubes, motor out the hood, drift car.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 08:25 PM
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I'd go with comp just because it's their thing, right. I'd switch to the XE270HR-14, SK35-351-8, which is .512 lift on both sides with similar duration, 270/276. You may have to verify clearance, but I don't think it'll be an issue. Plus you keep the operating range under 6000 RPM, which is plenty safe and useful street and strip.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 08:38 PM
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Oh and I'd replace the lifters, springs as well as the timing chain. Also, can I ask which BBK longtubes? I've got a 91 Cougar 5.0, and planning a build (347)
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Oh and I'd replace the lifters, springs as well as the timing chain. Also, can I ask which BBK longtubes? I've got a 91 Cougar 5.0, and planning a build (347)
I got them used, but the guy did have them listed for foxbodies. Ill see if I can find a part number on them.

First: Stacie, 1996 Tbird LX, mild build NPI engine, PI cams and intake, Long tube headers, Jmod.

Second: Ellie, 1989 Tbird SC, r̶e̶s̶t̶o̶r̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶d̶a̶i̶l̶y̶. off the deep end

Third: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500, thirsty daily.

Fourth: 1990 Tbird SC, GT40 5.0 mated to m5r2, BBK long tubes, motor out the hood, drift car.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zep5.0 View Post
Oh and I'd replace the lifters, springs as well as the timing chain. Also, can I ask which BBK longtubes? I've got a 91 Cougar 5.0, and planning a build (347)
I got them used, but the guy did have them listed for foxbodies. Ill see if I can find a part number on them.
No worries, did some checking and they don't offer 1 3/4 primaries that fit around an automatic. Back to the drawing board.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 09:39 PM
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If you go with the .544 lift cam, you have to machine something; if you send it to the shop you buy it from, they'll do it all for you.

You will need to insure no PTV contact in those kind of cases, IMHO.

I'm not knowledgeable about 5.0 engines, but I was talking to a buddy earlier that is.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 05:06 PM
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The last 5.0 I built, I used a Trick Flow stage one cam with ported E7s. It ran really well. Whatever cam you buy, make sure you change those weak valve springs. I'd also consider roller rockers at some point.
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