Front Cover Gasket Replacement - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-22-2007, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Front Cover Gasket Replacement

My front cover started leaking a stream of coolant from between the cover and the block. I printed off the instructions for R & R from MN12Performance. I know I can handle the job, except I'm not sure about the Synchro Positioning Tool (T96T-12200-A) that is needed to reinstall the cam sensor assembly. Is it really needed? Is there a shadetree method to synchronize the cam sensor? If I need it, where do I get it and what does it cost? I'm already planning on replacing the timing set and water pump just for insurance since it's got 103,000 miles on it and I'm going to be in there anyway.
Everything else I've seen says that the oil pan has to come down to get the front cover off, but mn12's instructions don't mention it and by looking at it, it doesn't look like it's necessary, but just wanted a second opinion. Any other helpful hints and tips would be appreciated before I dive in sometime in the next week or 2. Thanks in advance for any help.
Mike
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-23-2007, 12:09 AM
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No you don't have to remove the oil pan. It's a little easier but can definitely be done without doing so since there is no gasket, only RTV. I think your best bet with the cam synchronizer is to unbolt the sensor from the synchronizer. Then before doing anything make 3 marks with a permanent marker, one on the timing cover right in front of the base of the synchronizer, one on the base of the synchronizer, and one on the spinning magnet in the middle of the sychronizer. Make sure all the marks line up perfectly and then you can remove the assembly. When you put it back together, make sure they line up just like they did when removing them, but don't IN ANY CASE rotate the engine after removing the synchronizer. If you do the marks you made will be useless. The tool can be found here and I would recommend getting it just to alleviate any stress that might result from doing this job. It's not hard but the slightest hiccup can set you back big time.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-23-2007, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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i'm pretty good friends with a shop owner and he's got the tool and will let me borrow it so that will be a big help. i got him to give me a quote just for giggles and book time is 9.7 hrs but he said the computer shows loosening the subframe to take the oil pan down and a lot of other crap that i don't think is necessary, but his quote was $910. i'm glad i can do the work myself and save over $700.
thanks master for the input. it is greatly appreciated.

mike
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2007, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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well with less than 200 miles since i did my repairs the reman napa waterpump i put on started puking coolant. don't know if it's cracked or what but it seems to be coming out at the front bearing but i'm not positive of that. looks like i'll be pulling the water pump back off tomorrow. at least i shouldn't have any of the studs break on me, but with my luck they'll all break this time. i just hope i didn't do any damage to the heads or head gaskets. i didn't know it was leaking and when the low coolant light came on i stopped a couple miles down the road and the resevoir was empty and couldn't see anything in the radiator either. the gauge never showed hot, but i don't know if there was enough water in the system for the gauge to read correctly. guess i'll find out in the next week or 2.
not really any point to my rant, i just needed to vent and where better than here where most of ya understand my pain.

mike
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 05:13 AM
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When you reinstalled everything did you put any sealant on the threads of the studs that go through the waterpump and timing chain cover and eventually into the block? If not then you may be losing coolant through those bolt passageways and the pump is not defective.

Just a thought.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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yes i did put sealant on the threads of the studs that were specified to have sealant. i will double check the location of the leak after i get the belt and pulley off though to make sure. can't really see much of anything with the pulley in the way but it seems to be leaking from the bottom and not from the sides where the studs are, but it would be nice if it is just one of the studs. thanks for the thought scott, i hadn't really considered it being one of the studs, and will save me some work if it is. thanks again
mike
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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nope, definately the water pump. took the belt off and the front shaft has got a lot of play in it. now i gotta run into autozone and get the p/s pulley puller, come back and take the w/p off. then run back into napa and get a new pump, come home and put it back together, then run back to town to take the puller back. that's 90 miles, and 5 gallons of gas at $15.75 all because napa gave me a bad pump. what a p.i.t.a. well better get goin or i won't get it done.
mike
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 12:19 PM
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Why do you have to take the ps pump off?

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 12:23 PM
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You don't have to take the pump off but you have to remove the pulley so that you have access to the power steering brace behind the pulley. The brace needs to come off because it uses 2 studs on the water pump.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 12:33 PM
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I took my whole assembly off my SC. In fact I did it so many times I can do it in my sleep. Kind of swings out of the way.

95 SC 5-speed The Toy in Storage now.
95 SC Auto Newest storage queen.
91 Festiva 1.3L baby 5 speed
03 Crown Vic Sport 4.6... driver
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 01:46 PM
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this is exactly what happened to me last week.... bad cover gasket, get it all off, and back together and a bad w/p holds me over.... not napa though, mine was orielly
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