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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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D/S Upgrade?

Is there any d/s that i could use w/ the 3.8? i was told the mk8 shaft is too long. I have a pretty decent shake at highway speed. i'm thinking d/s. front suspension is new and aligned, and all mounts are new as well. any ideas?
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:27 PM
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Before shelling out the clams for a driveshaft, start simple. Have you had the tires balanced yet? Did you check the mounts for loose fasteners? There are also rear suspension components that could be causing it.

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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tires balanced, new mounts as of last weekend. have not touched rear suspension. what should i look for back there. thats a whole new world to me.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:34 PM
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Any and all of the rubber bushings supporting the center section, the spindles, the control arms.

If you're convinced its the driveshaft, just take it to a shop and have it balanced. Cheaper than a new one.


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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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i'm really not convinced of anything. i was hoping to diagnose it. i was thinking d/s because i didn't think rear suspension would make the wobble that i was feeling. could be tho, as i said it's still stock (as far as i know) and has at least 200k on it... thanks for your help
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:40 PM
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With 200k a lot can be wrong. It might not be the driveshaft itself but the u-joints. Get the rear up the air and check it out.

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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well, i'll be at the exhaust shop this afternoon fixing my leak and i'll look while it's on the lift. what does a bad u-joint look like. there are 2 right? (front/back of d/s?)
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:48 PM
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I bought a 93 Markviii shaft and had it balanced with new u joints and yoke .
I have receipts for the work totaling over 100.00 plus the 100.00 I spent to
get the shaft .


It still does not work for my car , I will spend the 450-500 for a real shaft this
weekend .

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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i can get a 93 (1-piece) mk8 shaft for $50 that i'd have to pull. thing is someone said it wont work w/ 3.8 so i'm not gonna even try. i'd just like to find the prob i have. sucks you got to take one in the rear... luck with the new shaft
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
well, i'll be at the exhaust shop this afternoon fixing my leak and i'll look while it's on the lift. what does a bad u-joint look like. there are 2 right? (front/back of d/s?)
It may not be a look so much as a feel. Basically if there is any play in the joint by turning the driveshaft side to side or moving it up/down/left/right, the u-joint is bad.

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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ok, thanks. and you said all rubber too, right. should be easy enough to check...
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2007, 09:55 PM
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as long as you have a 4r70w (which you do) it will work. The transmission mounts in the same position as the mark viii's so it will slide in to your transmission and bolt up to your rear differential. I bought a mark viii driveshaft at the junkyard for my 95 and it works flawlessly with the joints that came in it (Of course, I inspected them first). My 93, on the other hand, had an AOD, so that required an aftermarket shaft, which I actually just sold yesterday, brand new, for a great price to someone on these boards.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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so i'm now being told it will work? oh well, too much work involved. i checked the u-joints. def. some play there. also, my new trans mount is no longer new, it's broken. also, i noticed that the inside of my rear tires if wearing faster than the outside. seems i have some work to do back there. damn , i don't have the money for this....
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 12:55 PM
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The mount alone may be the cause of the vibration, though it may have lead to bad u-joints and other problems. Sorry to hear about it.

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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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also, with the car in park, i was able to turn the d/s maybe a 1/4inch. is that normal? or is that the u-joints? also, what do i do for the tire problem? thanks for the advice
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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 01:13 PM
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The output shaft on the transmission and the pinion gear on the differential both have a little bit of play. This is completely normal. What would not be normal is if after reaching the end of one side of the play you can keep going and you see the u-joint flex. Does that make sense?

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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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i think so, you mean turn it as far as the play allows, and then keep trying to turn it and see if the u-joint flexes? and by "flex" do you mean metal flexing or the u-joint kind of turning? i think you meant the latter. and if it is, what's the cause?
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 01:38 PM
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Yeah turn it as much as the play allows and look at the u-joint. See if it looks loose or twists/turns at all. It should be completely tight. If it isn't, it needs to be replaced. The causes of failed u-joints are age, bad driveline mounts, an out of balance driveshaft or abuse.

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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well, i think i've determined that the joints are bad. do i have to pull the shaft to change them. i would believe so. if so, i'll get the d/s re-balanced. also, does anyone know where to get a poly/solid trans mount?

edit: you said if there was any up/down or side/side play it was u-joint right? that play is there
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 01:48 PM
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Yeah there shouldn't be any movement besides the slight movement of turning side to side. Make sure though that it's the joint between the driveshaft and the yoke that's moving and not anything else though. It would suck to pull it out and find out it's not the problem. You do have to pull the driveshaft to get to the joints. There are essentially 2 ways.

1) Drop the gas tank and remove it
2) Remove the differential and pull it out

You should be able to buy a solid trans mount at an auto parts store (just specify you want solid rubber, not hydraulic) or from Bill at SCP (supercoupeperformance.com).

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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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well i only felt play (up/down, side/side) at the front of the shaft. is this what you mean? the whole shaft will turn a little which you said is normal.

option 1 or 2 easiest?

think i can take the broken mount back to o'reilly?(maybe 2 weeks old)
also, i saw something somewhere on here about making a mount from hockey pucks....is that gonna work?
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 01:58 PM
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You can definitely take the mount back if only 2 weeks old. They shouldn't have a problem exchanging it unless they are dicks.

I personally think dropping the tank is really easy but others like doing it the diff. way.

About the hockey pucks...

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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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whats involved w/ dropping the tank? sorry to ask so many q's but i've never done any of this. i've dismantled blackhawk helos but not rear's on a car... imagine that....
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 02:12 PM
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To drop the tank you need a jack (I prefer a trans jack) and a ratchet with some extensions and a socket (13mm I believe, maybe 9/16"). There are two straps holding the tank up and 4 bolts total, 2 for each strap. Place the jack against the tank in the center, undo the straps, and lower the tank. Then using a 12-point 12mm wrench remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the differential, drop the driveshaft and pull it out of the tail of the trans. Have a drain pan under the tailshaft of the trans as it will leak.

I can't tell you the other way cuz I've never done it!

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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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i wouldn't think that the trans would leak. wouldnt that be a bad rear seal? i'll change it anyways while the shafts out. this chassis (and trans) has about 200k like i said so i probably should do it anyways
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 02:20 PM
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No when you pull the driveshaft out of the transmission tailshaft fluid will come out. It's normal. Unless the tailshaft bushing is leaking when the driveshaft is in I wouldn't touch it.

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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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even w/ 200k? i'd think its a good idea to change it, so that it doesnt go later on. it's simple like the front seal right?
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 02:34 PM
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Yes , since I have 4.10's when I get my shaft from SCP I will also get
the extension housing from Alan with the force lube mod already done .

But yes it should be easy .

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mph .... 77.13

mods*
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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extension housing? force lube? wtf is that?
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2007, 03:05 PM
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http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...n/page12.shtml

Read my friend .

1997 Ford Thunderbird 4.6 Sport .

60'...... 2.06
1/8th .. 9.194
mph .... 77.13

mods*
PI heads *PI intake*Mark VIII torque converter*Cobra T-loc w\4.10's * Jmod*tranny fluid cooler*P&P stock T/B & plenum*UD pulleys* Dynotech 4in ds*80mm Lightning maf*Xcal2*02 GT intake tube.
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