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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-25-2007, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Angry coolant help

Alright, anyone who has been around for a while knows I have been having a nightmare of a time fixing my bird and now the latest problem. I finally got the coolant pressure problem fixed (someone didnt fully torque the heads down ). Now I am trying to fill the coolant system and am running into a problem. I have removed the vent plug filled the radiator, reinstalled the plug, put the cap on and start the car. I have been trying to get it up to operating temp, but I get worried because the upper hose feels like it is full of air and not fluid. The hose also gets very hard and when I shut the car off I can bleed a little air out of the plug the fluid comes out and the rad. is full. Am I just being overly paranoid due to past problems and should just let it run till she gets up to temp. or is there something else wrong?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-25-2007, 11:30 PM
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Alright, anyone who has been around for a while knows I have been having a nightmare of a time fixing my bird and now the latest problem. I finally got the coolant pressure problem fixed (someone didnt fully torque the heads down ). Now I am trying to fill the coolant system and am running into a problem. I have removed the vent plug filled the radiator, reinstalled the plug, put the cap on and start the car. I have been trying to get it up to operating temp, but I get worried because the upper hose feels like it is full of air and not fluid. The hose also gets very hard and when I shut the car off I can bleed a little air out of the plug the fluid comes out and the rad. is full. Am I just being overly paranoid due to past problems and should just let it run till she gets up to temp. or is there something else wrong?
Yes, you are being paranoid. Burp your car so you feel good. Raise the front end, radiator cap off, start the motor and let it come up to tempreature. Walk away while it is doing this as most of us will keep looking to see if the radiator is flowing, air trapped in the motor "will" give you a facefull. Have your ac running on max. If you have raised kids think about it, why is it by the 2nd baby you kept them verticle enough to burp on themselves.

Now if the problem persists, that is headgasket.

Brad

93 5.0 Thunderbird LX - Suspension rebuilt - poly , Solid rubber mm's, Tokico Blues, SCPP 3.5" CAI, True Duals (Pypes Bullits MVR200RA, Magnaflow Resonators 14416), FRPP case & 3.73 gears, Dynatech MMC driveshaft, Walbro 255lph, 3G 130 amp Alt, MAC 1 5/8" Long Tubes, Tru Cool (28k), Cervini hood, LC-1, QH, '95 Cobra J4J1 PCM, 88mm VMP Slot Blade MAF, '97 TBird Electric Fan, PBR calipers, 24lb EV6 Bosch 4 Jet Injectors

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-26-2007, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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thanks for the help, feel a lot better now. I guess I am just going to have to deal with the coolant spilling on the ground. I tried taking the cap and putting it all the way on then back on "click" (to where it is fastened on but can still vent) but it started spilling coolant on the ground so I stopped. Once again TCCoA to the rescue.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 10:21 AM
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2007, 11:27 AM
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Didn't the 95's come with a vent plug?
Yes it did.

--Chris

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2007, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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now that write up makes no sense, first it says the vent plug must be installed before starting, then later after it says to start it, it states "on the 3.8 install the vent plug. I think I am going to go with what bradone said and lift the front end and leave the plug in and cap off and let her run like that and hope for the best.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2007, 09:00 PM
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now that write up makes no sense, first it says the vent plug must be installed before starting, then later after it says to start it, it states "on the 3.8 install the vent plug. I think I am going to go with what bradone said and lift the front end and leave the plug in and cap off and let her run like that and hope for the best.
The method I gave you was learned working in a radiator shop 30+years ago. We used to get $45 for trouble shooting cooling problems but they had to leave the car. As soon as they left I was sent out to "Troubleshoot" with a pressure tester, two jackstands and a floorjack. Get the cap off while still hot. Put on the pressure tester and pumpup to 16lbs. Jack the front up and get it on stands. If it was still holding pressure when done I would leave it for 30 minutes and then go back out with a drain pan (1/3 of 55 gal barrel) and put it under the cap area, confirm the system was still holding pressure, release and remove the tester, start the car, turn on the ac if it had it, and walk away. As an apprentice I always had the dirty end of jobs lined up and learned to listen for the "burping" while doing other tasks. The car would start to "burp", I'd look at my watch and time 5mins, and then go back over, jack the car backup while running, remove the jackstands, confirm burping had stopped, pull out the drain pan, and lower while still running. If no more sounds, top off the radiator and shutoff, re-apply the pressure tester, and walk away for another 30 minutes, then re-confirm no leaks, wipe any excess, and I was done. Total labor time, maybe 15mins. I got 15% ($6.75) for my time. Damn good in 1973 in Florida. Most of our customers were local service stations who couldn't figure out what was wrong. I loved it. They made me business cards and I spread them out all over the county. System works. Shop made a killing, I made good money.

I have never had this fail as long as you confirm no other problems. Use a pressure tester, and not just for 5 minutes.

Brad

93 5.0 Thunderbird LX - Suspension rebuilt - poly , Solid rubber mm's, Tokico Blues, SCPP 3.5" CAI, True Duals (Pypes Bullits MVR200RA, Magnaflow Resonators 14416), FRPP case & 3.73 gears, Dynatech MMC driveshaft, Walbro 255lph, 3G 130 amp Alt, MAC 1 5/8" Long Tubes, Tru Cool (28k), Cervini hood, LC-1, QH, '95 Cobra J4J1 PCM, 88mm VMP Slot Blade MAF, '97 TBird Electric Fan, PBR calipers, 24lb EV6 Bosch 4 Jet Injectors

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2007, 10:43 PM
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Brad, you may be correct on this because it is not that easy to get the air out according the OEM method. I will give that a try someday and see what happens.

May I ask if these are the correct steps mentioned or are thier some little steps that my be needed that are not mentioned?

Thanks a million for your advice.

Brad
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2007, 11:41 PM
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Brad, you may be correct on this because it is not that easy to get the air out according the OEM method. I will give that a try someday and see what happens.

May I ask if these are the correct steps mentioned or are thier some little steps that my be needed that are not mentioned?

Thanks a million for your advice.
I have helped alot friends through the years with this. When I learned this it was commonly told to people their motors were wearing out and developing hot spots on the cylinder walls. I have seen that old [email protected]#$% on the Mustang forums also. Plain simple fact is motors do build sediment over time, especially if people use non-distilled water. Flushing never gets it all. This simple "burping" gets around it. I haven't found a hotspot in a cylinder wall yet on a teardown. I have never varied except on the pressure test. I don't use it when I am just servicing anti-freeze on my own vehicles. When I help freinds I do the whole process. Real time consuming. You can drink 3 or 4 beers while waiting.

Brad

ps. Hey, friends pay in beer, right?

93 5.0 Thunderbird LX - Suspension rebuilt - poly , Solid rubber mm's, Tokico Blues, SCPP 3.5" CAI, True Duals (Pypes Bullits MVR200RA, Magnaflow Resonators 14416), FRPP case & 3.73 gears, Dynatech MMC driveshaft, Walbro 255lph, 3G 130 amp Alt, MAC 1 5/8" Long Tubes, Tru Cool (28k), Cervini hood, LC-1, QH, '95 Cobra J4J1 PCM, 88mm VMP Slot Blade MAF, '97 TBird Electric Fan, PBR calipers, 24lb EV6 Bosch 4 Jet Injectors

[email protected] (engine/trans is stock)

To Be Installed: WRGearset (FRPP) AOD w/Art Carr VB (transbrake/electric OD_non-lockup), Ultimate Converter Concepts 9.5" 4100, Hurst V-Matic 2, Camshaft Innovations "Custom" cam & "TEA" prepped TW 190 FAC by Jay Allen, Holley Systemax II, 75mm TB, 275/50/15 MT D/R's,
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2007, 03:02 PM
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Cool I Have Never Used It

And I Have Never Had A Problem Always Top Off Rad When Cool And Overflow To The Line:d
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