if you cut your egr tube near the top you might be able to get away with a silicone hose they make for exhaust...if it close to the header its gonna melt...you will need the egr tube from a 96-97 cougar/tbird 3.8 or a mustang...you could also delete the egr...since your vehicle is eec iv controlled it wont effect your air/fuel table...you will get a check engine light...now might be the time to get a chip which will disable the egr system check...but you can drive as long as you block off the egr on the header and the intake...also cap up vacuum line on intake...check engine light will be on until you get the chip...
did you delete your egr and how do you do it any performance differences and im gonna go get some compression fittings see if i cacn get this puppy to work oh and about buying one forget that ford said 100 buck plus for metel tubing i can make my own for that much
i didnt delete mine...but i may in the future...you just need to ditch the egr valve, the evr which is right next to the valve on the left and the little gray box right behind the the valve...three things total...you then need to cap up the hole on the header and block the hole where the egr valve screws to the upper intake...you need to make a block off plate...as far as i know and what i have heard, eec iv vehicles will not be effected...many fox body 5.0 stangs delete the egr and use some kind of a plate to trick the computer to think its there but they never really change the eec egr function...with eec-v vehicles: 96-97 3.8's, 95+ 4.6's, and all SN95 stangs and up will notice poor performance with a defective egr...
and 100 bucks for the egr tube? i got mine for 45 from the dealer...
ok i put on some mustang headers so will the egr tube off the 96-9 bird work for it i tried making my own with compression fittings but its turning to be a big pain in the butt and what dealer did you get the tube from i was just at zimmerman ford in cedar rapids iowa they said 101.16 for the tube i thought that was way to much
yeah your are going to have to make your own egr tube i would try some heater or silicon hose and put it towards the the top of the engine, that is what i will be doing for mine, the mustang headers are different then the 96/97 tbird headers is tube design and everything
ok but where did you use it at the top or bottom and the top closer to the egr valve i assume well anyway i bout a new egr from ford its off a mustang and then ill probaly cut it at the top and use that silicone hose if it dosent fit
I deleted the EGR from my brother's 89 and my 90 T-Bird. No CEL. Just leave it bolted to the upper intake and thread a plug into the whole. Cap the EGR outlet on the header. Leave the electrical and vaccum lines hooked up to the EGR. The EEC4 only checks if the valve opens and closes under the correct vaccum conditions. The EEC5 checks for EGR flow as well and that is why it has to be deleted from the chip.
If you wish to run EGR, get the tube that goes with your headers. Midwest Mustangs could hook you up with that for a few bucks.
The reason you are having trouble finding a fitiing is that it is an 18 mm metric thread.
Im looking to delete my EGR as well....Im getting some mustang JBA headers for 277.00 and they want to know if Im deleting EGR. Ive got a 95 LX 3.8, do I have the EEC4? So all I have to do is take off the EGR tube and cap the intake and make sure the headers (im buying) dont have the EGR fitting?
Any known problems out there for clearnace issues with the JBA mustang headers?
I have 2 sets, one for each car. Their only downside is possible interference with the steering shaft.
I have not put them on my car yet and my brothers had many other mods all at once. If you wish to scrounge up a set of your own, look for 96-96 T-Bird headers.
If you look at the tubes alone, you can see they are a giant improvement over the cast junk.
No not even close dude. My brother's had a "plastic" like cover on the split shaft that melted a little. One time I pinned it in a corner and felt a little bit of bind in the wheel for a fraction of a second. If you were to use a tie strap on the motor, you could even eliminate that. I thought about trying to move the shaft outwards a hair but I have not gotten to it yet.
how hard are they to put on? some guy posted that you have to rearrange the rest of the exhuast or get a mustang set-up, and said something about having to pound it close to the block as possible? this true? or can i just bolt on and go?
The headers will just bolt on, but the exhaust from your old manifolds would need to be altered. The flange is too small to mate to the header ball and curved in.
The shape of the factory cats suck as well. If you look at them, the driver side I believe has a 90 degree inlet. How good is that for flow?
Get some high flow cats like Catco from Summit, I think they are $80 and get an exhaust shop to relocate them in a straight section a little before the resonator. There is about 3-4 feet from the manifolds to the resonator on my brother's car with about 2 feet of straight pipe that could easily mount a straight universal cat.