rod bearing change with engine on car? - TCCoA Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: OKC
Posts: 20
Post rod bearing change with engine on car?

wel it appears i have a rod that is knocking. from a little research i found that i need to change the rod bearing to fix this. can this be done with the engine in the car? is this covered in the haynes manual? if this can be done with the engine in the car, what would i be required to take off the engine to get to the bearings? how much can i expect the parts to cost if i change one of the rod bearings? any help would be appreciated
TonyZ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 10:36 PM
Seasoned PostWhore

Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Age: 37
Posts: 7,464
Garage
Send a message via AIM to MadMikeyL
In theory, yes it is possible, however it certainly isn't the easiest or the preferred method. Plus you don't know that the rod bearings are all that is wrong, so you could replace the rod bearings and still have a knock from some worn out main bearings or a busted wristpin, or any one of a bunch of other possible noises. Or you could get it apart and find the crank is wiped out or that the block may need some machine work, and then you would have to pull it out anyway. If you are going to do it, do it the right way and pull the motor out of the car and work on it on a stand. If it were my car, I would probably just find a good running 3.8 to swap in, since it would probably cost you less than rebuilding your current motor.

-91 Cougar LS, coming soon, complete overhaul with a 427" Windsor.
-90 XR7 5-speed black on black w/sunroof, MP2, coated rotors, double intercooler, 15%OD, ported heads, comp stage 1 cam, 85mm TB, 90MM LMAF, 80# injectors, and ported big valve heads
-98 Mark VIII LSC, Procharger P600b, TR3650 swap and 3.73s.
-90 SC Automatic rustbucket winter beater
-97 Tbird Sport 4.6 Nice weather daily driver
-"Your buddy Mike is INSANE!" -ClintD's dad
MadMikeyL is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-05-2007, 11:08 PM
The Parts Guy
 
racecougar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Imperial, Missouri (near St. L
Age: 36
Posts: 7,265
I agree with MadMikey. The only way to do it with the engine in the car would be to drop the K-member. While that isn't that big of a deal, unless you're sure the engine will not have to come out due to other undiscovered problems, I wouldn't waste time doing that.

Working with the engine on an engine stand will be much easier than trying to do it lying under the car anyway.

-Rod

Rod @ AzzKicker Cars
[email protected]
90 XR7-The Meth Addict-KB SC'd 5.0L DOHC Stroker
2004 Mustang GT-The Driver-Intake/Exhaust/3.73's
1995 F150 4x4-The Mud Toy-5.0L/4R70W/33's/Warn 8274 Winch
94 LX w/Splitport 3.8L from 2000 Mustang - SOLD
2 - 90 35th Anny Ed SC's
And a TON of parts cars!
racecougar is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 01:17 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5
Make sure the engine is worth the work

TonyZ,

I have to agree with the idea of the other posters to take the engine out and really look into it to have a total picture of the condition. I've had too many experiences where I repaired something in thr bottom end- or top end for that matter and then had to go back and address another failure. When an enigne fails mechanically it's usually a sign of another problem or the end of a gneral wear cycle. I had a Leyland A-series engine that knocked only for a few days and when I pulled off the sump there were pieces of a big end bearing lying in the pan. With an 1/8" gap between rod end, the crackshaft was battered beyond usability. I did have one success though and I replaced rings, rebuilt the head and big ends in a Volvo 122S with the engine in the car and supsension dropped down, but that was an engine with 90,000 miles that didn't need reboring and the crankshaft was in spec.

Good luck on that one!

Cheers,

Bambi B
Bambi B is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the TCCoA Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome