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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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need help!

I was driving today, and i felt wheel slip like i lost traction not sure what it was i looked i did not see any water on the road.

i noticed my heat gauge spike up to hot and there was steam coming out of my hood. i pulled over i looked the heater core hose was cut by a shady shop.. that had done recent repair on my bird...

calling the ford dealer i found out the part was discontinued so i had to get hoses and male couplers as well as hose clamps. fixed it let the car run and it was ok for a bit, as soon as i started driving it spiked up to hot on the gauge.

so i am stumped any feed back would help me greatly.
thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 06:23 AM
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Double check to make sure you have enough coolant, and you bleed any air out of the system. There's a sticky on the top of this forum page.

Hopefully you didn't warp a head or blow a head gasket when it over heated.

Good luck!

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodeo Joe View Post
Double check to make sure you have enough coolant, and you bleed any air out of the system. There's a sticky on the top of this forum page.

Hopefully you didn't warp a head or blow a head gasket when it over heated.

Good luck!

Joe
i turned the car off and called for a tow. i didn't want to risk ****ing it up. (excuse my words) im just pissed. there is plenty of coolant, i turned the heat on in the car to defrost the front window and it was blowing out cold as ice air... its parked and its going to stay parked till its fixed. not going to risk hurting my car. as much as i didnt like it before i started to fall in love with it...
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 09:27 AM
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Sounds like you cooked the thermostat. Car running hot/heater ice cold= stuck thermostat. It happens sometimes on an overheat.

I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you

Tim

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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well here goes nothing going to try n fix it. thanks guys
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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thank you, replaced the thermo turns out the shop that had last fixed the car put the wrong one on it...
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 09:14 PM
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Hi, Just blew my gasket the same way i think. Over heated on the high way last night. White smoke all over the place. The coolant was filled up. Sprayed steam out of the water pump hose. drove it a couple of miles. when the gas pedal started to give electric click sounds. now itīs all dead. Sounds like a steam engine when i start it up. Only had it since this summer. Itīs a light brown T-bird 90 with the 3.8 N/A
Good runner and clean original. Paid 200 € to get it trailed to my parking. Gonna begin a tear down of the head in the morning. Since the compressions gone, guess itīs a blown head? right? Any advice on a teardown?

Good luck with your car! They are old but a nice ride.

Cheers from Sweden Daniel
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by danielcah View Post
Since the compressions gone, guess itīs a blown head? right? Any advice on a teardown?
Blown head gasket, or warped head. Make sure you have the head machined flat again before you re-install.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 11:43 PM
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Hey thanks for reply.
Will have weeks waiting for a gasket set from US to get here. plenty of time to get the heads straight if needed. Been reading on how fidely the air bubbles/preasure in the cooling system can be. will have to check that to. Since it could blow again after a re build.

Will post the work here for feedback

Cheers
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2012, 09:44 PM
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So began the disassemble process. three days in, the crank turns by hand, a bit rough but still turns. don't know how easy it should be? got all accessories of, a ***** with all corrosion. Intake manifold has a felpro gasket. so guess itīs been worked on before i got the car.

Now i am at the injection rails, gonna have to read bout getting the rails of the plugs. seems to be clips with two taps on each side.

Any tips?
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-21-2012, 10:30 PM
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Remove the injectors attached to the rail, slide the whole thing upward like near the windshield on the cowling out of the way. No need to disconnect the rails unless you want to. Personally the less old brittle crap I remove from cars the less I have to replace during the job.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 12:13 AM
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The bolt on the back of the drivers side head can be a pain to get off due to its location, other than that it should be pretty easy.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 03:04 AM
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That bolt driver side back, came out with a bit of fiddle, with itīs rusted out bracket. Thereīs also another bolt right next to it 13mm, holds a ground wire to the harness. And on the passenger back side head, thereīs a bolt holding a bracket with hoses. Now thatīs a real mess. need to get it out of the way to take the lower intake of.

Pretty straight forward stuff, every process has a few steps before they can be done.
Like the power steering pump needs it pulley of before you can get to the bolt. Got it of by using a bend able ratchet. and if you can't get the pump out of the way. you can't get the wire harness out of the intakes way.

The injectors are held on the rail with small black clips, pulls out fairly easy.

Thanks for your reply, i see why few places would do this job. without some serious robbing your wallet.

Merry xmas
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 08:23 AM
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Thanks for your reply, i see why few places would do this job. without some serious robbing your wallet.

Merry xmas
If you see why, it's not robbing, now is it?

RwP

who has had to answer once again why he charges over minwage for knowing how to do what he does.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 05:19 PM
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All good!
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