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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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Cold Air Intake

Does anyone know where to buy a cold air intake for a 89 base model T-bird
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 04:54 PM
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You've already got a cold air intake from the factory.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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How can I get a better one to get more than 140HP
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 05:30 PM
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Changing the air intake won't help any...

Check the stickies at the top of this forum for ideas.

-Brandon
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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How can i get cold air induction
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 05:58 PM
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 11:38 PM
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So you want to change your airbox that takes air from inside the fender and put a conical filter into the hot engine bay and call it a cold air intake? And the intake tube is not your restriction on an 89 base, the stock intake tube can handle it.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEVIN8989 View Post
How can I get a better one to get more than 140HP
Sell your TBird and buy a car with more HP.

Oh - wait - not what you want?

Removing the current CAI and putting on a HAI mis-labeled a CAI will cut HP. OTOH, if you plumb it to where it IS a CAI, not only do you risk inducing more throttle lag, it turns out that a chassis dyno says you'll gain ... about 2 HP. Oooooohhhhh ....

Of course, if your old filter is dirty enough, putting a new one on can increase your HP by at least 20 to 30 ... but strangely, putting a Wix or other low-differential stock filter in does the same!

My routine list:

1) Suspension.

2) Tires.

3) Suspension.

4) Suspension.

5) Did I mention, fix that 20 year old rubber that makes that car less safe than it could be, and while you're at it, fix the motor mounts and tranny mount?

6) Mercon V in the transmission after a full drain and during a filter swap.

7) New wires (Autolite or Motorcraft), new plugs (see others here - do remember, the 3.8NA uses a distributor for some years - if you have a dizzy, you can use plain platinum plugs, since you won't have that waste spark. If no dizzy, then I'd suggest copper for better life.)

8) All vacuum hoses.

9) Engine cleaning on the inside - Seafoam, Berryman B12 Chemtool, or Techron.

10) NOW we're getting to where we want to look at the motor for goat-juice. Oh, wait, not yet - BRAKES!

11) Brakes. A Mustang PBR upgrade on the front, discs on the back if you're currently drum.

12) NOW - we do the splitport upgrade.

The OTHER choices before we actually beef up the motor? Are to keep you ALIVE. 1,000 HP is scary enough without the car coming apart on you in a turn. Plus, getting the power you HAVE down to the ground makes more sense than wasting MORE power due to slop in the suspension, while you try to wrap the car around a phone pole because it doesn't go the way you point it.

RwP
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 11:47 PM
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Can we put RalphP's response on the home page?
No offense intended at the OP, but your car is what it is right now. Do the proper maintenance that is so often neglected and your car will be fun, even with 140hp. After that if you want more power, swap in a 4.2, splitport it, or swap in a 5.0. Just a few options. Just keep in mind you should probably back that up with a better exhaust, upgrade the trans, torque converter, differential, half shafts...

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 11:56 PM
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The intake is not the bottle neck in your engine



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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 06:29 AM
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^ LOL



Here ya go man

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...-Cold-Air-Kits

1995 Tbird ~ 02 explorer SVO 4.6 Sold
1986 built/restored notch body mustang ~ appears as a 91+ built 5.0 gt40p, Ud pullies, ss headers, msd everything, arp head bolts, 1.7 crane roller rockers, B303 cam, Holley carb, high rise intake,5 speed, steeda everything. Sold
2001 GT BULLITT #00762 stock
2000 GT ~ 310 rwhp on mustang dyno. 08 2v, super low miles, comp 262 cams, bbk ud pullies, ported bullitt intake/accufab TB, 24# injectors, dyno tuned, 3inch pypes catless x pipe system, cobra brakes, coated cross & drilled rotors, Cobra r hood, 99-01 cobra front bumper, & 01-04 side scoops, dropped
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 08:59 AM
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I know you're taking a lot of flak, OP, but this subject has been beaten around more times than we all care to count. The best set up for you will be your stock air induction system with the air silencer below the air box removed.

Michael M. ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist.

1996 Thunderbird LX. Gone, but not forgotten Oct 1995-March 24 2016 Trick Flow headded, E85 guzzling beast.

1985 Mustang GT. modified stock Holley 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 5 speed, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

1998 Mustang GT premium. Trans Go shift kit, Bassani catted x-pipe, PI heads, cams, intake swap, Accufab elbow, SCT Xcal 4 tune, Eibach Pro-kit, Maximum Motorsports Caster/camber plates, fat tires. Banging audio system.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
Sell your TBird and buy a car with more HP.

Oh - wait - not what you want?

Removing the current CAI and putting on a HAI mis-labeled a CAI will cut HP. OTOH, if you plumb it to where it IS a CAI, not only do you risk inducing more throttle lag, it turns out that a chassis dyno says you'll gain ... about 2 HP. Oooooohhhhh ....

Of course, if your old filter is dirty enough, putting a new one on can increase your HP by at least 20 to 30 ... but strangely, putting a Wix or other low-differential stock filter in does the same!

My routine list:

1) Suspension.

2) Tires.

3) Suspension.

4) Suspension.

5) Did I mention, fix that 20 year old rubber that makes that car less safe than it could be, and while you're at it, fix the motor mounts and tranny mount?

6) Mercon V in the transmission after a full drain and during a filter swap.

7) New wires (Autolite or Motorcraft), new plugs (see others here - do remember, the 3.8NA uses a distributor for some years - if you have a dizzy, you can use plain platinum plugs, since you won't have that waste spark. If no dizzy, then I'd suggest copper for better life.)

8) All vacuum hoses.

9) Engine cleaning on the inside - Seafoam, Berryman B12 Chemtool, or Techron.

10) NOW we're getting to where we want to look at the motor for goat-juice. Oh, wait, not yet - BRAKES!

11) Brakes. A Mustang PBR upgrade on the front, discs on the back if you're currently drum.

12) NOW - we do the splitport upgrade.

The OTHER choices before we actually beef up the motor? Are to keep you ALIVE. 1,000 HP is scary enough without the car coming apart on you in a turn. Plus, getting the power you HAVE down to the ground makes more sense than wasting MORE power due to slop in the suspension, while you try to wrap the car around a phone pole because it doesn't go the way you point it.

RwP
I'd put brakes BEFORE suspension. They are easier to upgrade as a starting DIY and if you want to drive fast (even on a track), having a firm suspension will give you (false confidence) that you can go faster whereas properly upgraded brakes might actually save you from dying.

As far as the splitport ugprade is concerned, I am eyeing a 4.2L block but note: 4.2L F150 engines were already splitported.

The only upgrade to the F150 engine block is the 96-98 Windstar upper intake. You won't get any more power but a) it's lighter since it's composite plastic vs aluminum and b) its slightly shorter so you won't have to raise the hood as much.

-g

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
I'd put brakes BEFORE suspension. They are easier to upgrade as a starting DIY and if you want to drive fast (even on a track), having a firm suspension will give you (false confidence) that you can go faster whereas properly upgraded brakes might actually save you from dying.
Actually, due to the tear-down, I'd do both at the same time.

It's just that the PBRs can be seen through the wheels, so a lot of folks will do those ... and wonder why the car goes 25 different directions on every bump due to missing 1/2 the rubber in the bushings (not all in any one bushing, mind you!)

RwP
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 03:29 AM Thread Starter
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Yea I guess I do need to get my motor mounts fixed and new struts and springs. I just thought that buying some kind of cold air intake would give a boost in power. Now I just need to make the car run better. Im still learning and working on cars takes alot of time, money and effort. Hopefully someday I will get this car in good condition.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 05:49 AM
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It took me 2 years to get the T-bird running and driving right. But the experience and knowledge gained along the way was invaluable.

BTW I don't believe PBRs will work on anything with pre-93 spindles.

-Brandon
97 Laser Red Thunderbird LX 162k, Stage 2 4.6L 2v N/A | 300 BHP (255 RWHP, 290 RWTQ) | 13.95 @ 97.58 | Build details | Pics at the Lorain Assembly plant
98 Black Mark VIII 160k, stock daily driver
07 Redfire Fusion V6 SEL 178k, for the wife
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 09:06 AM
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It took me 2 years to get the T-bird running and driving right. But the experience and knowledge gained along the way was invaluable.

BTW I don't believe PBRs will work on anything with pre-93 spindles.
It does require 93+ spindles - again, a reason to do the suspension and the brakes at the same time for the 89-92 chassis.

And why I usually start "Suspension/brakes/suspension"

RwP
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by KEVIN8989 View Post
Yea I guess I do need to get my motor mounts fixed and new struts and springs. I just thought that buying some kind of cold air intake would give a boost in power. Now I just need to make the car run better. Im still learning and working on cars takes alot of time, money and effort. Hopefully someday I will get this car in good condition.
Well, see, you HAVE a cold air intake. Open the hood, open the air box, remove the filter, look into the airbox. Exactly WHERE is that air coming from for the filter?

BIG hint - it ain't the hot engine bay air!

And again, until you can dependably STOP the car and get the power from the motor TO the ground, it doesn't do much good to upgrade the power.

RwP
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEVIN8989 View Post
Yea I guess I do need to get my motor mounts fixed and new struts and springs. I just thought that buying some kind of cold air intake would give a boost in power. Now I just need to make the car run better. Im still learning and working on cars takes alot of time, money and effort. Hopefully someday I will get this car in good condition.
Time.. yes, if you don't want to pay someone else to do this work
Money... it's all a relative thing. Cars aren't as cheap an entertainment per hour as say, sitting on your butt and playing BF3 on the Xbox, but the skills you learn ARE valuable to more than just another 12 yr old.
* Car parts do cost money and premium tbird aftermarket parts (aka trick stuff) is pricey as well BUT new, stock tbird parts (or other bits from the stock bin of other fords which will be an upgrade for you) are CHEAP. That's the beauty of having a mid 90s domestic that a TON of people still have on the road.

* New motorcraft shocks were a piddly $10.77 from rockauto.com
* Even from the local Oreilly, the engine mounts are only $7 and change. They have a $40 one but from what i could tell, there was no difference.
* BREMBO rotors = $20 and change? Deals can be found.
* Mustang GT calipers (the best upgrade for brakes) = <$200 all in.
* Also, as people upgrade their cars here, you can find deals on used aftermarket bits on this forum. I think I paid $50 for some rear eibach springs.

Before i bought my tbird, I had only done straightforward maintenance on cars (oil, coolant, brakes, and stereo wiring). Through buying my tbird I've learned all about wiring, engine coolant flow, transmissions, engine internals, fueling systems, and suspension).

Save your pennies and put the sweat equity into it and you'll have a pretty entertaining car to drive.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Yea thanks man. Right now I need to buy struts and springs, shocks for the back, and a rack and pinion. And that just what I know of for now. Eventually I need to but new seats and carpet.

If I cant get PBRs for front brakes what ones should I get?

Last edited by Rodeo Joe; 12-23-2012 at 03:54 AM. Reason: Merged posts
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 08:21 AM
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Yea thanks man. Right now I need to buy struts and springs, shocks for the back, and a rack and pinion. And that just what I know of for now. Eventually I need to but new seats and carpet.

If I cant get PBRs for front brakes what ones should I get?
Most folks just replace the bushings on the struts, not sure you can buy new struts.

Unless you're meaning "front shocks" when you say "struts".

As to which ones - you don't have much if any choice as to caliper on the original spindles. I'd opt for something like a Brembo rotor (good quality, fairly decent price) and good pads (I rather like Wagner's ThermoQuiet pads on my cars, but that's not a 'There can be only one!' type item, thankfully!). Don't fall into the "Slots help braking!!" nonsense (for a street car), since if anything, slots eat away the pad quicker (hey, that's what they're SUPPOSED to do, to keep non-glazed pad material exposed!) and holes reduce the actual thermal mass of the rotor a small bit (making them a bit more prone to overheat). If you're braking hard enough you need the outgas holes provide, you NEED to swap to 13" Cobra brakes on the front. Period. Don't EVEN think about anything less. And if you don't need 13" Cobra brakes on the front, you don't need slotted/drilled rotors. May get them for looks, but be honest about it - it's because the look cool, and you've got enough reserve braking to take the minor loss they give you.

Unless you're doing autocross, drag racing, canyon carving, or drifting, you may want to use a one-piece assembly for the front springs and shocks (which will be erroneously listed as a "strut assembly") to make it easier. If you don't, find a local shop that'll swap the springs for you - unless you're certain you're getting new springs. Then just find one that'll assemble the set for you. Those front springs are NOT to be trifled with! And, since they're NOT struts, and don't rotate, you do have to get them aligned properly on assembly. There's tricks you can use, but it's much easier to get a pro to do it - locally, it's about $20 per assembly to do it.

I'd STILL grab a set of 93+ spindles and a set of 2003-2004 Mustang GT/V6 PBRs for the front, and while you're in doing the springs and struts, swap out the spindles and brakes, so that you can stop this car easier.

While doing the rack, I found it was a LOT easier to do the front motor mounts with the rack out. The rack was enough to get me cussing in a few more languages (picked up M'Bari while I was working on it ... even Klingon didn't have enough fire to suit me! ) so I'd highly recommend you do that also.

Go ahead and do the outer tie rod ends while doing the rack - unless they're new, then leave them and just swap them onto the new rack.

Be a good idea to get DLF's Flaming River U-Joint kit to replace the rag joint. It's On My List, but I just didn't have the extra dosh at the time I did my rack.

Be CERTAIN to flush your lines out, too! Don't want old crap eating up the new rack, after all.

RwP
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 10:26 PM
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I've used Wagner Severe Duty pads and they lasted quite well for track days.... not as good as the Porterfield R4-e pads but at $20, they are literally 1/10th the price.

The catch is that they aren't available for the stock Tbird calipers -- only the size required for Mustang BASE/GT brakes (aka PBR calipers).

I bought most of my new parts from rockauto.com. It's a great site esp when compared to the local autozone/oreilly/checker/etc pricing.


-g

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