battery reads 13 V, but wont crank/start? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-21-2014, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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battery reads 13 V, but wont crank/start?

Put a charger on it and charger says its charged, volt meter reds 13 or so, but car wont even crank over.

The negative battery cable has a crack in it, im wondering if that is the cause battery is good but car isn't getting power cuz cracked cable?

BUT if i jump it with another car its good to drive, but if i stop and turn car off it's immediately dead and wont start again. Even after driving around for 15 min with no radio on no nothing.

Problem is due to recent crash i can't take battery out to get it properly tested/charged as things are mashed in and id have to pry it out and hope things dont break.

95 v6 T bird
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-21-2014, 07:33 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Try reading the voltage when you turn the key to start.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-21-2014, 09:42 PM
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yeah, you may still have a bad battery, even if it shows 12v. you really need a cranking amp rating.

you can have the local parts store test it in the car... but if its indeed bad, your still going to have to figure out how to get it out...

can you at least hook a chain to the radiator support then too a tree and try to slowly pull out the damage a bit in reverse.

sounds a bit hillbilly i know, but its worked for me in the past on an old cavalier. just don't go whole hog on the throttle, you can and will tear the whole front end off that car

also, don't be driving her around too much with a bad battery. the alternator is for maintaining the change, not running the whole car. you can easily toast the alternator with regular jumpstarts + driving long distances.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 06:13 AM
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Are you checking power on the battery or the Cables. Yes it matters I had a bad cable and car would die if it dropped below 2500RPM (running straight off the alternator). Crazy thing it would Ohm good but no power would get through.

If all else fails get a bigger hammer!

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blinky99 View Post

The negative battery cable has a crack in it, im wondering if that is the cause battery is good but car isn't getting power cuz cracked cable?


95 v6 T bird
use your jumper cable and just bridge from the negative terminal to the engine block.
See what happens. If it works, don't forget to ground your chassis as well.
gl

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 12:39 PM
No, Mr. Lemmywinks, No!!!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowez View Post
Are you checking power on the battery or the Cables. Yes it matters I had a bad cable and car would die if it dropped below 2500RPM (running straight off the alternator). Crazy thing it would Ohm good but no power would get through.
A ohmmeter only uses a trickle of juice to check ohms; a wire can flow that, but open when the starter hits.

Green rot does this; you can beat on the wire, and it will work a few times, lol.


Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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Truth Isn't Truth. - Rudy Giuliani, 2018 Award winner, “Most Outrageous Diversion” by MSNBC for this quote
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-22-2014, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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battery was dead, got a new one still have the rough idle problem in my other thread could really use some help on

Last edited by blinky99; 06-28-2014 at 02:46 PM.
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