Temp Gauge won't go above the middle inbetween "N" and C -Cold? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-24-2015, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Temp Gauge won't go above the middle inbetween "N" and C -Cold?

I'm not sure what happened but my temp gauge refuses to go above the middle point between cold and N in NORMAL? It was typically always between N & O in Normal or R if it was really hot (middle of the gauge). It does move but it no longer goes to where it normally should be.

The car runs fine, has about 3,000 miles since the headgasket replacement (rebuilt cylinder heads (originals were trashed), new felpro gaskets, arp head studs, etc) and ran completely fine for a 800 mile road trip in 90 degree heat with the AC running constantly. T-Stat was replaced when the headgasket was done and then re-done again (it was leaking from the housing) by a professional mechanic, no problems with it at all.

I also check the coolant levels, they are fine and there is no air in the cooling system. Both the heat and AC work perfectly as well. The only issue I noticed is if it sits a few days, it idles very rough and stumbles for 5 minutes then runs completely fine?

I did notice a faint winding squeak in the cluster earlier this month but it has yet to return? I'm not sure if the actual cluster is going bad (the odometer/trip minder still works) or if this is a bad coolant temp sensor. I'm leaning towards the CTS myself because of the odd running when cold but it seems very odd that gauge would work at all if it's bad.

Thanks for your time and your help.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Fixed, it was the temp gauge sending unit, $11 and it's good as new!
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-26-2015, 09:10 PM
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Ayep. The temp gauge sending unit has a TSB because of a bad crimp and they started failing when about eight to ten years old.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-27-2015, 04:50 PM
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Mine has always been wonky, works like half the time. Ive put in new sending units, its the wiring connection.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Raptor22 View Post
Mine has always been wonky, works like half the time. Ive put in new sending units, its the wiring connection.
Yep, I'm having this same problem again (won't even make it to the N on Normal) likely the wiring. Has anyone tried splicing in a new connection? I noticed Rock Auto sells the pigtail that the sender connects to but didn't know if anyone has had any luck with it?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-12-2015, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Well I fixed the wiring for the temp gauge sending unit, didn't fix the problem? The sending unit and wiring are new too. The gauge simply will never reach the N in normal, it's always reading right below it which is too cool for this weather (80s and running the A/C).

Also, it keeps having a rough/high idle, hesitation, and stuttering issue on the first start of the day but it subsides after a few minutes? I cleaned the MAF sensor, didn't help, plugs and wires are new, everything else looks good too. Is the coolant temperature sensor causing these issues? I'm not sure if that impacts the temp gauge reading too.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2015, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06jeep View Post
Well I fixed the wiring for the temp gauge sending unit, didn't fix the problem? The sending unit and wiring are new too. The gauge simply will never reach the N in normal, it's always reading right below it which is too cool for this weather (80s and running the A/C).

Also, it keeps having a rough/high idle, hesitation, and stuttering issue on the first start of the day but it subsides after a few minutes? I cleaned the MAF sensor, didn't help, plugs and wires are new, everything else looks good too. Is the coolant temperature sensor causing these issues? I'm not sure if that impacts the temp gauge reading too.
I've honestly gave up a long time ago. I just watch it really closely and make sure my coolant level is good. It hasn't worked right for me in 6 years...

[-----[ Conner ]-----] ASE P2 Automobile Parts Specialist - P4 General Motors Parts Consultant
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2015, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Raptor22 View Post
I've honestly gave up a long time ago. I just watch it really closely and make sure my coolant level is good. It hasn't worked right for me in 6 years...
I think I might have fixed mine, hoping it lasts but this is what I did:

I pulled apart the factory tape/wire shielding for the temp gauge sender. I discovered that instead of using solder, ford simply twisted the two wires together to join them into the plug for the gauge sender. So I soldered the wires together before the boot.

Then I replaced the coolant temperature sensor. I was having a weird hesitation/rough idle/miss on the first start of the day and sometimes the idle would be high for a second then almost stall? Replacing the CTS seemed to fix that and may have contributed to the temp gauge sender working again as well.

After that, I bled the cooling system, installed a billet vent cap (found a link on here), and also installed a chassis grounding cable to the left shock tower from the negative battery connection (probably didn't help but it seemed like the accessories worked better after I did, the factory chassis ground looks weak).

I drove it 200 miles the past two days and the temp gauge works excellent now! Hoping it lasts but I won't be surprised if it doesn't. Thanks for the help in this thread as well.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06jeep View Post
I think I might have fixed mine, hoping it lasts but this is what I did:

I pulled apart the factory tape/wire shielding for the temp gauge sender. I discovered that instead of using solder, ford simply twisted the two wires together to join them into the plug for the gauge sender. So I soldered the wires together before the boot.

Then I replaced the coolant temperature sensor. I was having a weird hesitation/rough idle/miss on the first start of the day and sometimes the idle would be high for a second then almost stall? Replacing the CTS seemed to fix that and may have contributed to the temp gauge sender working again as well.

After that, I bled the cooling system, installed a billet vent cap (found a link on here), and also installed a chassis grounding cable to the left shock tower from the negative battery connection (probably didn't help but it seemed like the accessories worked better after I did, the factory chassis ground looks weak).

I drove it 200 miles the past two days and the temp gauge works excellent now! Hoping it lasts but I won't be surprised if it doesn't. Thanks for the help in this thread as well.
Awesome, I'll seriously consider doing that.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2015, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Raptor22 View Post
Awesome, I'll seriously consider doing that.
Just to update this, it's been over a month and the temp gauge is still working ok! Seems like a solid fix for the erradic temp gauge issue.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-17-2015, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 06jeep View Post
Just to update this, it's been over a month and the temp gauge is still working ok! Seems like a solid fix for the erradic temp gauge issue.
Good to hear. Honestly its hard to work up the ambition when the thing has never worked right. I just make sure I have good coolant. Anything else is going to happen anyways and most of my driving (5 mile trips) isn't long enough to cause serious damage if it was overheating.

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Thunderbird SC Suspension Swap - Eibach Pro-Kit
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