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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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Header pic request...

Could someone please post some pics of 96-97 headers, i have a mystery set of headers, they dont look like V6 stang ones, but i dont know if theyre from an MN12, or just a different year V6 stang.

Could ya hook a brotha up please?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 10:49 AM
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I've got some pictures at home. I'm at school now. Here's a pic from my cardomain site. Best I can do for now. Best way you can tell the difference is if the driver side header bends in quite a bit toward the block to clear the steering shaft. the stang headers go pretty much straight down.

These are wrapped in heat tape so it might not be that helpful but it's the best I can do until 5pm or so tonight.



-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
2003 SVT Focus: - SCT X3 tuner
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 06:25 PM
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Hmmm. Looks like the ones tbird gave me. Do they have O2 bung in them? Mine do not. How did your 3.8 react when you ditched the EGR? I was thinking of doing the same. Tbird232ci's father has an '90 MN12 (tbird), and his EGR is acting up, causing spark knock. Just do not want any issues if i remove mine.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 07:04 PM
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I'm pretty sure you need a chip if you want to ditch the EGR.
apten-us.com

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by T-bird4vr
I'm pretty sure you need a chip if you want to ditch the EGR.
apten-us.com
Not on the eec-iv's. I have mine deleted. The only thing you'll get is an engine light. Nothing goes wrong, no bad idle, no loss in mpg. It's all good. What you do is get a 20mm or 22mm (can't remember which sorry) brass pipe plug from a hardware store and screw it in as tight as you can into the EGR valve up top where the tube used to go. take off the vacuum hose that comes from the EGR sensor (square little gray box beside EGR valve) and leave it open, do not plug it. then have someone weld the EGR bung shut on the header part and that's it. EGR is deleted but the computer will still turn it on and think it's running. If you get a chip you can delete the EGR completely but this is the way to do it without a chip.

Roy, if you look at the picture you will see that my o2's were welded into the downtubes. the 96-97's do not have o2' bungs in them.

Here's a pic from the top.



-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
2003 SVT Focus: - SCT X3 tuner
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
The only thing you'll get is an engine light.
we also did an "engine light delete" mod when he was his cluster out a while back

i had a feeling they wernt V6 stang headers, they didnt match up anywhere near to the 5.0 headers i got, and didnt match pics of any V6 headers ive seen

Roy: dont you love how i save you money?
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-13-2004, 08:46 PM
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Dang, Thomas got me on one. Uggh.

Julian

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2004, 10:40 AM
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Sweet. So I do have the correct headers! Where did you get downtubes from? I was going to order some piping from Summitt, and have them bent. How did you go about porting them?

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2004, 12:19 PM
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Any exhaust shop will be able to make the downtube for you. you don't need to order anything the exhaust shop already has stock piles of piping.

I got an angle grinder and put it flat against the header flange and ground it down evenly until there was about 1/2" of flange left, which is needed to seal the flange correctly. I also took a dye grinder with a rough grinding bit and ported out the primary inlets (part that bolts to the heads) some because it had rough spots in there. And then if you look inside the flange you'll see where the primaries meet together, that part can be smoothed out some with a dye grinder also.

-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
2003 SVT Focus: - SCT X3 tuner
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-14-2004, 04:50 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'll get started!

Everyday of my life is a constant fight, between wrong and right.

When there is no grass on the field, go around back and play in the mud.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-16-2004, 09:51 AM
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Roy,
Don't open yours up too much unless you already have major breathing mods. Thomas has a lot of mods for flow so he can benefit from a more open exhaust.

Mustang headers work on a Bird, the steering shaft just rubs sometimes.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-16-2004, 11:37 AM
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Thanks for the warning Flex. Tbird232ci made me aware that nothing more than 2 1/2 is needed. I plan to run maybe 2 1/4 in downpipes to new OEM cats. Then bolt them to a High-flow muffler, where the resonator is. I'll then run a single 2 1/2 in pipe out the back.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 11:59 AM
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Roy,
The shape of the OEM cats suck. They exhaust takes a 90 degreee turn which is bad for flow. The 2 1/4 is a good idea, that is what I did with mine as well as having them coated.

Go with after market cats. They are not that much and will outflow/outlast factory cats. Better materials are used and a straight through design. Look at the ones Thomas has in his pic.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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he doesnt mean factory ones, but more like "replacement" or "standard flow" since he isnt going to be running a resignator, but only a muffler
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Roy Batty
Thanks for the warning Flex. Tbird232ci made me aware that nothing more than 2 1/2 is needed. I plan to run maybe 2 1/4 in downpipes to new OEM cats. Then bolt them to a High-flow muffler, where the resonator is. I'll then run a single 2 1/2 in pipe out the back.
No he said new OEM. not universal.

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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-17-2004, 07:21 PM
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Good point to make though, about the cats. The goal basically is to get decent flow through my exhaust system, without the cost of low end. With running a high flow muffler and hi flow cats; my low end may suffer. Some standard replacements should do well. Or (just thought of this) some high flowing cats, and a restricitive muffler. I am not doing this tomorrow, but I life to plan ahead. Thanks for the input everyone.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Roy Batty
Good point to make though, about the cats. The goal basically is to get decent flow through my exhaust system, without the cost of low end. With running a high flow muffler and hi flow cats; my low end may suffer. Some standard replacements should do well. Or (just thought of this) some high flowing cats, and a restricitive muffler. I am not doing this tomorrow, but I life to plan ahead. Thanks for the input everyone.
How about hi flow cats, and a flowmaster or some other type of aftermarket baffle style muffler. That should keep the backpressure nice but get rid of that crappy downtube.
-Thomas

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 07:16 AM
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What kind of pipe is recommended from the headers to the new cats? I can only find places that will work with mild steel.

Roy, if you are patient, you can get 2 new high flow universal cats off of eBay for about $75 delivered to your door. I did!

My problem is finding a shop to make the proper downtubes for my car. I'd actually liek Stainless Steel or Aluminized. I'm going from stock 97 headers to 2 1/2" cats. If someone would post the magic formula for the downtubes so I can get them made, I'd appreciate it.

My problem is that if I want the job done now, I have to go to a shop. It's too damn cold in my driveway right now. No shop wants to touch replacing the OEM cats for the universal high flows. So I am stuck because I don't know how to make the downtubes myself, and can't have the car on jackstands for anylength of time while I take out the existing set up to a shop to get the tubes made.

The Parts Bin Special is DEAD! It is being parted out.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 12:47 PM
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The flowmaster muffler muffles sound, but still flows better than stock. That may reduce back pressure too much, causing loss of low end torque. remember Thomas, not all of us have an insanely modded 3.8L

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-18-2004, 08:10 PM
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Make the cat your "bottleneck" so to speak. Keep the down tubes 2.5" until they hit the cats. Then use 2.25 or 2" cats to keep back pressure up. The mufflers size will not matter after that.
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