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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy Acts the same after HG replacement

Got a 1991 Tbird with erradic temp gauge, you now the head gasket song and dance. Had t-stat replaced twice, cooling system back flushed, then finnally replaced HG's (which were deteriated), new water pump, new t-stat.

Filled and burped cooling system and still have the same problem; erradic temp gauge, the new water pump seems to not circulate the water, t-stat is brand new and in right but acts like it's not opening. Top or bottom radiator hoses does not get hot. No steam or sweet smell coming out of tailpipe. When I run the engine the temp gauge goes up a little and a small amount of heat comes out of the heater core. I can open the radiator cap and coolant surges out even though it seems not to run that long for it to do that.

I guess the biggest puzzle is way it is not circulating the coolant.

Heads were torked properly and everything else went back together smoothly. Can't figure whats wrong. Any ideas.

This is my first post and looks like I have can to the right place...........
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 03:17 AM
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That's pretty odd. Sorry if this is a completely retarded question, but is the t-stat in the right way? I've known a few instances were someone put the t-stat in backwards and it obviously wouldn't circulate the coolant. Another dumb question...was the serpentine belt routed correctly around the water pump? I've also known an instance where someone did this and the coolant would not circulate. I'm assuming you got new head bolts right?

Obviously your problem lies in the coolant circulating. If the radiator hoses never get warm then it's not moving anywhere. So my guess is that the problem lies somewhere between the pump and the t-stat.

-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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Pulled t-stat this morning, it was in right. Checked belt and it is on the proper way and new head bolts were installed.

Refilled cooling system this morning and relaced cap. Took vent plug out and filled there also. Started engine and let run about one minute and fluid started running out of top of the radiator where the cap goes. I know engine was not hot enough to cause this. Radiator was not overfilled to cause this. It seems like the heat in the engine (over this short period on time) may have pushed it out. I know t-stat did not open, it did not run that long.

How do you find a stoppage in these kinds of cooling systems or is that what it might be? I had it back flushed before putting HG's on it. I thought that clear any blockage.

Does the heater control have anything to do with circulation? Could it possibly stop circulating?

I feel like I need to say something here about myself. I have worked on vehicles for the pass 25 years. I have helped build street stock cars from the ground up. Worked on cooling systems more compilcated then this. THIS ONE IS DRIVING ME NUTS. I have never ran into this much problem.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 12:50 PM
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the heater hose wouldn't block anything. this has got me stumped also. Maybe you'll just have to drain the coolant, start the car, stick a water hose into the lower intake where the thermostat goes, and flush that baby out. That's the only thing I can think of right now.
-Thomas

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 09:18 PM
 
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Try pulling the T-stat all together (don't drive the car like this) and reinstall the housing to see if the coolant will flow with it removed. The failure rate of new t-stats is alot higher then most people think. If the coolant circulates without it in place then you know you have a bad t-stat. You can also boil it to see if it will open. If you have a thermometer you can stick it in the pot with the t-stat to see what temp it opens up at if it opens up at all.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 09:33 PM
 
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All my birds would push coolant out of the filler neck just 30 seconds or so after startup, I thought that was normal. I agree to check the Tstat and get a good flush on the motor. Only other thing I can think of is a bad water pump, was it rebuilt or an actual new part? When I worked at Oreilly's I had to exchange several rebuilt ones that were bad out of the box. Good luck.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 10:00 PM
 
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Smile

my moms 90 had this problem and it was the conection on the temp sender make sure it is tight and free of corrosion
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnNaas
Only other thing I can think of is a bad water pump, was it rebuilt or an actual new part?
I don't think Ford even makes new water pumps for the 3.8 anymore.

Yeah try testing the car without the t-stat and do the water boiling thing. Those sounds like great ideas.

-Thomas

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 11:59 PM
 
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very few things are new even from the dealer it is more cost effective to rebuild
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 12:05 AM
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Alright no odor of coolant burning so dont think your car is getting hot! Do you feel a loss in power after driving for awhile this is also a sign that its getting to hot and its normal for coolant to flow out after just staring the car if you start it with the radiator cap off youll see itll start to flow out pretty quick I think your temp sensor is off or crappin out . ANd also if there were a blockage in the system I think it would eventually have to give somewhere like a hose bursting and such . And you said you burped the system what way did you go about doing this?

94 SC with Built 4r70W and 408W
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Got it fixed, thanks to you folks. Never thought it would be the t-stat. Put a new (second) one in and it works great. Got the car "burped" and running fine. I guess you are never to old to learn. Thanks again.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 08:18 PM
 
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Glad you fixed it.

Also, Ford might not be making new water pumps, but there is at least one manufacturer who is:

MASTER PARTS DIVISION
MST New Water Pump
1 per car. CP4050

...and out of the box, they seemed to have less returns than the remans.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 11:23 PM
 
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T-stats are quite fragile rough handling can cause a brand new one to fail right out of the box, I've seen it a few times. I did know the stats on this but really can't remember now. The scarey thing is that it happens enough for somebody to bother keeping stats on it.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 11:55 PM
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I believe it's 1 out of every 5 t-stats are bad.
-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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