Need some help interpreting EEC codes - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-02-2005, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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Need some help interpreting EEC codes

Hi guys,

Pulled the codes from my car today and it's looking slightly f****ed

I did this by wiring the STI on the diagnostics connector to ground, and counting the flashes from the MIL. (this is KOEO test). Turned the key and the first batch of codes
was:

21
24
95
21
24
95

Looked those up, but not sure what to do about them:

21 - ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 0.7 volts.

Question here, what's the ECT?

24 - ACT sensor out of self test range 0.3 to 0.7 volts.

Question here, what's the ACT sensor, and where do I find it?

95 - Fuel pump secondary circuit failure battery to EEC (inertia switch)

Well this one I could figure out I think; does this mean the inertia switch needs to be reset (it's in the trunk, ran into it once when I was trying to figure out where my keyless entry module was at.

If it's not that, does it mean it's wise to go and get me another fuel pump?

Okay, after that I got the big 6 second pause, and then the codes from the CM. These codes were, as far as I could tell,

319
195
319
195

319 - I can't find this *anywhere* - I'm sure it was 319, since it got repeated twice, but it appears this isn't anywhere in the EEC-IV code list.

195 - Run cylinder balance diagnostic test

Okay, how do I run one of those? And what does it mean? Does this mean my cylinders are shot? Is it hte compression?

If anyone can help, I'd really appreciate it
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-02-2005, 01:45 PM
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looks like your ect and act sensors could both be bad. When they go bad the voltage of the sending wire will get very low, or very erratic. ACT is Intake Air Charge Temperature sensor or vane air temperature sensor.

The inertia switch is in the trunk on the driver side, it's got a little red button that should be pressed in. If it's not, push it back in. The car will not run with it tripped.

for the 319 and 195, are you sure you didnt mix those two up and they're actually different codes? The computer should read everything off at once, not wait 6 seconds to throw more codes. It usually waits 6 seconds to throw the 15 or 111, which is test failure, or test pass.

-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-02-2005, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas
looks like your ect and act sensors could both be bad. When they go bad the voltage of the sending wire will get very low, or very erratic. ACT is Intake Air Charge Temperature sensor or vane air temperature sensor.

The inertia switch is in the trunk on the driver side, it's got a little red button that should be pressed in. If it's not, push it back in. The car will not run with it tripped.

for the 319 and 195, are you sure you didnt mix those two up and they're actually different codes? The computer should read everything off at once, not wait 6 seconds to throw more codes. It usually waits 6 seconds to throw the 15 or 111, which is test failure, or test pass.

-Thomas
Hi Thomas,

Well, the car does run, only after 20 minutes or so the MIL comes on and stays on. No noticeable loss in performance, no sputter, no nothing.

Anyhow, checked the inertia switch, red button was pushed in, so maybe it's a short there or someting, dunno, gotta bust out the multimeter and go to town on the wiring back there.

As far as the other codes go, it never gave me a 15 or a 111. It started off right from the start with the 21 24 ... series of codes. After that it paused for about 6 seconds, flashed a 1, waited another 6, and started flashing the rest. All my reference material suggests that the first batch of codes is 2 digit codes straight from the EEC as it's doing it's test, then it does the 6 second pause, flash, 6 second pause thing to indicate it'll now be dumping 3 digit codes from continuous memory.

Anyhow, looked at my notes and instead of a 319/195 it could also have been:

31 91 95

Because that sequence repeats twice. It does look like the fuel pump might be busy crapping out, since the 95's stored in CM as well.

31 and 91 respectively boil down to: "Canister or EGR valve control system or EVP circuit below minimum voltage", and "EGO sensor problem due to fuel pressure or injectors out of balance"

(Sorry by the way I'm most likely asking silly questions but english isn't my native language, and I still have some serious problems wrapping my head around any auto-mechanic stuff in English ).

Judging from the above 2, I'd venture a guess that my fuel pump is getting bad, because it fails on a test, and there's other issues that might be due to fuel pressure. Correct? Or am I totally on the wrong track?

Leaves me with a few questions still:

1) That Canister/EGR valve thing? Is it saying the EGR valve isn't doing what it should?

2) EGO sensor, is that the same as an O2 sensor? And if so, where do I find these puppies (I know they're in the exhaust somewhere).

3) The fuel pump. Can I take just any fuel pump out of a car at the junkyard? And um, (I feel silly asking), where does one find the fuel pump? Is it in the gas tank itself? Or outside of it?

Anyhow, thanks Thomas
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-03-2005, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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*bumpity-bump-bump* anyone?
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