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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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just cant figure it out

Well Im lost with this. Sometimes the car fires right up and runs great others it takes four or five tries to start and will run like crap and get terrible mileage, about 11-12 city and not better than 19 on the highway. The temperature makes no difference it will run like crap at 10 below and at 35 it will fire right up and run great. And no codes are being thrown. Ive replaced the FPR, fuel filter and tune up items, the EGR valve and the IAC are the only parts not replaced ( IAC was replaced with a junkyard unit twice).
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 07:33 PM
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could possibly be o2 sensors as well, EGR malfunction wouldnt really affect gas mileage to that extreme. Could be the IAC sticking, but it should still start, just run poorly.

What items were included in your "tune up items"?

-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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The PCV, plugs and wires, cap and rotor, the TFI module was also replaced during the summer.
Wouldnt a bad 02 give a code?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 07:54 PM
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sometimes, sometimes not, its kind of weird, Ive seen them not throw codes before. Dont ask my why.

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 08:01 PM
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could be a partially stuck open egr valve, failing fuel pump or a bad fuel pressure regualtor

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Ive been goin through everything thats been done so far, the fuel pressure regulator was replaced in the fall. Dont know if this makes a difference but sometimes, once or twice a month when the car is hot it will run really rough for a few seconds and sometimes die and be a real PITA to restart.

With the EGR could I just plug it off?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-08-2005, 08:18 PM
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yeah you could, I had it that way for about 1-1/2 years. You'll need to plug off the header side and the side at the EGR valve, leave the sensor alone and leave the vacuum connection on the sensor open to the air, but leave the vacuum hose on the EGR diaphram. I think it was 22mm brass plug for the valve side, I had the header welded shut.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2005, 02:38 PM
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i have the egr tube plugged but the sensor is jus sittin there with the vaccum not plugged in ..cus i dont have the pipe ne more will that make a differance??????????????????
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2005, 03:54 PM
 
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can you say vacuum leak?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2005, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokenmachines_e2
can you say vacuum leak?
No, as long as the vacuum is plugged at the vac tree there will not be a leak. The sensor is just vaccuum actuated. I ran my car like that for 2 years.
-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-12-2005, 01:37 PM
 
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I figured you had done so... I made the assumption that the fellow I was responding to hadnt.

Guess thats what happens when you assume things.
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