Iowa Chapter Director
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Ames, Iowa
Just on the subject of lowering springs. THEY ARE LIKE HELL to put in on most t-birds. some people get lucky though. the problem is on the front. the lower shock bolt on most t-birds seizes to the bushing inside the control arm making it unable by any means to take out. in some cases it can be hydraulically pressed out, but for around 60 bucks a side. new control arms cost about 100-120 per arm. and while your going through all the trouble to fix that damn bolt you might as well just get new performance shocks too. What I did though was take out the entire control arm shock spring and caliper all in one piece and brought it to a shock where they compressed the springs with the shock still attached. they held up the arm with a barrel and 3 guys while the owner comrpessed the springs. kinda funny. so in that case I didn't even bother trying to take out the bolt. seemed expensive either way I looked at it. the existing bolt works how it's suppose to anyway. you just can't move it is all. but I got it lowered. you have to take it to a shop where they have a wall compressor because those things you can rent won't work. I didn't believe it at first but I found out myself. the rear took about half an hour though. just disconnect the sway bar, shock bolt, and two bolts right behind the brake drum/caliper that hold it to the control arm (nothing was seixed on the back thank God.) Than press down on the control arm with your foot and the spring will come right out. the performance spring are shorter and will go in even easier. I know this is off the subject but I'm just trying to save you time when you do it and don't know what to do. if you don't already know that is. Good luck. I love the handling I got from Eibach Springs.
1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
2003 SVT Focus: - SCT X3 tuner