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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2002, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question exhaust ideas

hey everyone...my first post here, although i have been reading the boards for quite some time...I have a question about my exhaust.

I am installing a H & R lowering kit on Wednesday, and my current exhaust will be way too low to the ground. It scrapes as it is now, and in fact, i have bent the left pipe up a little bit from it scraping.

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...39_59_full.jpg

I will have it re-done as soon as possible, but i do not want anything showing in the rear. I was thinking about a flowmaster turned down right before the rear axle, so nothing even goes to the rear, but i am not sure if there is enough room to do so. Anyone have ideas on what I could do? I dont want it too loud, but it doesnt have to be quiet...

oh..btw, the third cat and resonator has been removed and y'd together.

Thanks for any help.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2002, 02:15 PM
 
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hey. i have a 96 LX 3.8 with H&R Lowering springs and flowmasters. I have just a flowmaster muffler. I cut the tib, so theres nothing coming out the back, i have a pic i can send you thru AIM if u need one.

AIM: XxHurley500

-andrew
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-12-2002, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Arrow

hey TBird 38 LX, i havent been able to catch you online this evening...could u email me that pic please?

[email protected]

thanks
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2002, 12:14 PM
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Just on the subject of lowering springs. THEY ARE LIKE HELL to put in on most t-birds. some people get lucky though. the problem is on the front. the lower shock bolt on most t-birds seizes to the bushing inside the control arm making it unable by any means to take out. in some cases it can be hydraulically pressed out, but for around 60 bucks a side. new control arms cost about 100-120 per arm. and while your going through all the trouble to fix that damn bolt you might as well just get new performance shocks too. What I did though was take out the entire control arm shock spring and caliper all in one piece and brought it to a shock where they compressed the springs with the shock still attached. they held up the arm with a barrel and 3 guys while the owner comrpessed the springs. kinda funny. so in that case I didn't even bother trying to take out the bolt. seemed expensive either way I looked at it. the existing bolt works how it's suppose to anyway. you just can't move it is all. but I got it lowered. you have to take it to a shop where they have a wall compressor because those things you can rent won't work. I didn't believe it at first but I found out myself. the rear took about half an hour though. just disconnect the sway bar, shock bolt, and two bolts right behind the brake drum/caliper that hold it to the control arm (nothing was seixed on the back thank God.) Than press down on the control arm with your foot and the spring will come right out. the performance spring are shorter and will go in even easier. I know this is off the subject but I'm just trying to save you time when you do it and don't know what to do. if you don't already know that is. Good luck. I love the handling I got from Eibach Springs.
-Thomas

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-13-2002, 12:17 PM
 
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yikes

those muffs are pretty low to the ground, im not sure how much H & R's lower the car but i cut my springs and dropped it about 3-3 1/2" all around with the flowmaster kit that summit sells, i dont scrape them but every once in a while but my pipes only sit 2" off the ground, NEED TO GET THAT FIXED. when i find my thread showing pics ill show you how low it is to the ground


Edit:

Kinda hard to see but you get the point

Last edited by MO_XR7; 10-13-2002 at 12:23 PM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-16-2002, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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i'm having it done tomorrow or friday.....anyone have another idea?
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-19-2002, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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i got it done yesterday...flowmaster 40 series delta flow - 2.25" offset inlet, center outlet. The muffler hooks up at the Y where the third cat used to be. it runs back to the rear axle then is turned down. I really like the way it looks, not having anything showing in the rear.



Its not the greatest pic, but its wet out......I'll take better ones once it dries up a bit.
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