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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2005, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Torque Specifications

Help please. I have looked in search and have not found the numbers. My Chilton manual say to torque lower intake in sequence in two steps. Step 1, 8 foot/lbs. Step 2, 11 foot/lbs. I did this and drove approximately 1000 miles and water is leaking from the water passage in the lower intake into #1 cyl. Are these torque values right?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2005, 02:21 PM
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The tightening of the lower shows it should be 2 steps:
1. 11 N-m (8 lb-ft)
2. 15 N-m (11 lb-ft)

And the upper is 3 steps:
1. 10 N-m (8 lb-ft)
2. 20 N-m (15 lb-ft)
3. 32 N-m (24 lb-ft)

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Last edited by tbirdbrain; 08-24-2005 at 02:26 PM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2005, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Torque Specs

tbirdbrain thnks for the reply. That is the procedure I followed. However 11 lb/feet of torque is almost nothing. They call for more to secure the upper intake to the lower intake than to secure the lower intake to the heads. I was wondering if this is the same torque specs that Ford recommends. I appreciate the help I am receiving on this problem.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-25-2005, 12:48 PM
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Those specs came right from the ford service manual. I agree that the lower bolt torque seems
to be very low in terms of bolt tightness but when warm, some engines do shift
shapes more than others.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-26-2005, 03:54 AM
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Ive had mine at 11ft/lbs for just less than a year now and have had no problems. I always go over the final torque sequence 3 times to make sure they're all tight. You'd be surprised, I've always found loose ones when tripple checking the sequence. Did you clean the head and intake surface completely? Any gasket material left over will cause a leak, guaranteed.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-26-2005, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Torque Spec.

Thomas, thanks for the reply. I did the torque sequence twice. The heads were milled 12 thousands and looked brand new. I cleaned the lower intake surfaces with a commercial aluminun cleaner and finished the process with acetone. I feel certain the surfaces were prepared properly. When I pulled the lower intake, I could see where water was going into Number 1 cylinder. I was just wanting to be sure the specs in the Chiltons was not a misprint.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-28-2005, 11:37 AM
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You have .012 off the heads... but did you have your block decked as well?

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2005, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Josh, I did not have the block decked, but the leak is between the lower intake and the head. It shows no sign of leakage on the head gasket
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-29-2005, 01:56 PM
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The reason I ask that, is because if you take too much material off of the block and/or the head, you change the way the intake sits on the heads and that'll cause a leak. It's actually a pretty common occurrence.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 06:55 PM
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The book says final torque specs are around 54 so should I be safe with 50?
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-20-2005, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Rice
The book says final torque specs are around 54 so should I be safe with 50?
noooooooooooo do the correct torqueing

1988 Notch Mustang: - 438W, direct port n2o, t56
2003 SVT Focus: - SCT X3 tuner
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-21-2005, 10:10 PM
 
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I was told by my shop that 12 thous is too much too have shaved for this heads.

shaving too much will change compression. remember you are making the heads slightly shorter so this will change the distance between each head (going across the span where the intake sits). This will change the way the intake sits on the head and may be the cause of your problem.

If you are sure that is where it is leaking I would pull the intake off and try to pinpoint the problem to a specific area. Maybe you tore the intake gasket or got some debris between gasket and intake. Maybe you missed a crack.


Good luck though.

Last edited by CincyT-Bird; 10-21-2005 at 10:17 PM.
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