Pressure in radiator (need help fast)
OK, it seems I have another big problem. I start my car and the top radiator hose gets hot pretty fast. The metal portion is too hot to hold onto for too long. Not sure if that is normal or not, but it just seems hotter than what it should be. I wouldn't worry about it if there wasn't other problems too.
After a quick run, say 5 minutes or so, or around the block. I can shut the car off wait 3 hours and come back to find that when I open the radiator cap, there is still pressure in the system and coolant squirts out. Again, this doesn't seem normal. There is no flowing of coolant into the reservoir, so I thought maybe my cap is sticking. I tested the cap only to find that it releases pressure at about 12 pds instead of the normal 16. So it would seem that the overflow should be filling up instead of staying on the cool level line.
The engine also seems to be running hotter than it should. My temp guage didn't register at all today eventhough it was working yesterday. I checked the connection and it looked ok. I have two temp sending units near the coolant air release valve. One has a single wire running to it (located on same pipe as purge valve) and the other (located to left of purge valve) has two wires. I am not sure which is the main sender for the gauge. Is there a way to check and see if these sensors are good? I read a post before where someone said ground out the sensor ro something like that.
I just replaced the thermostat and water pump today, but the problem still persists. I don't seem to be leaking coolant since it is still full (except what squirts out). I did a compresison check before I put the engine in (from a Junkyard) and the numbers all turned out excellent. The compression built up something like 30, 90, 150 on all cylinders. I plan on doing another compresion check tomorrow. The oil looked good and black. It still looks clean.
Can an improperly tightened upper intake manifold be the cause? Will this cause the engine to run hot? I don't see how it would since there are no water ports between UIM and LIM. All that runs through this is air and fuel misture. Am I wrong here? The reason I asked is that I removed the UIM and guestimated when tightening it. Tomorrow I will retighten in sequence and torque specs.
Is there anyway to test the radiator to see if exhaust gasses / oils are leaking into the system?
If I open the radiator and start the car will I be able to see coolant flow through the system through the cap hole?
Last edited by CincyT-Bird; 10-16-2005 at 01:53 AM.