96 timing chain cover removal help - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2005, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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96 timing chain cover removal help

Working on a 96 3.8L Cougar for a friend and can't find what I need with a search.

While changing the water pump, one of the main studs broke off in the block. Started to take the timing chain cover off and ran into a problem.

What's giving me trouble is the camshaft sychronizer (sp) (the part that replaced the distributor). I only have the 95 service CD and my chilton manual doesn't even address a 96 non SC with DIS.

So could someone please tell me how to put it at TDC or whatever it takes to get the camshaft sychronizer out.

Thanks in advance,
Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2005, 11:21 PM
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good question man! i'll be interested to know. but one sure fire way would be to take the intakes off and look at the cam lobes. but thats kind of a pain in the ***.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-01-2005, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by girdnerg
So could someone please tell me how to put it at TDC or whatever it takes to get the camshaft sychronizer out...
Just pull the spark plug out of cylinder #1 and put a screwdriver in there. Turn the crank (by hand) until it reaches the top of the compression stroke.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-01-2005, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Did more searching without help.

The 96 3.8L has DIS instead of a distributor. So there is a sycronizer from the cam to the sensor (pic looks like a distibutor with the top portion removed and replaced with a sensor. This has to be aligned like the distributor before removal. That's my problem. I don't know how to set it to (the posts say 17* after TDC) and that an alignment tool may be needed.

Also found the SC's and 94+ Cali cars got this setup, so I pulled out the 95 service CD I have, found the reference to putting it back in. However the link takes me to the distributor cars not the DIS cars. So I'm still in the dark of what position (and how to get it there) to put the engine at to pull this thing.

Any 96/97, 94+ Cali, or SC guys/gals know how to do this.

PLEASE help, this is my buds only car and we are hoping to get this done this weekend.

Sorry, but I need specifics, tips, tools, procedures, etc.

Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-01-2005, 02:27 PM
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I just bought a bunch of the Rotunda tool sets, and I see the sync positioning tool, and it is a plastic cap with an arrow on it that you point at 54 degrees off centerline with the no 1 piston at TDC and the gear fully engaged and fully seated.

I can't help you out with anything, the 97 Service Manual just says to make sure you put it at TDC, not how to do it, and I have never done that on a 3.8 or on anything that I couldn't use the marks on the timing set or had the head off.

--
97 Mark VIII LSC/Silver/Gray leather
97 Cougar 4.6 Sport/White Opalescent Tricoat Metallic /Gray leather down but not out?
89 Cougar LS 3.8/Oxford White/Gray velour/HG need replaced AGAIN
00 Grand Marquis LS/Vibrant White/Gray velour
63 Falcon 302/black and rust/shed isn't moving
82 F-150/Oxford White/dumb VV carb doesn't pass emissions
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-01-2005, 02:29 PM
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If you have a broadband connection and a CD burner: http://www.fordcds.com/

--
97 Mark VIII LSC/Silver/Gray leather
97 Cougar 4.6 Sport/White Opalescent Tricoat Metallic /Gray leather down but not out?
89 Cougar LS 3.8/Oxford White/Gray velour/HG need replaced AGAIN
00 Grand Marquis LS/Vibrant White/Gray velour
63 Falcon 302/black and rust/shed isn't moving
82 F-150/Oxford White/dumb VV carb doesn't pass emissions
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-01-2005, 02:38 PM
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Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to «Section 14-01».

2. Disconnect fuel charging wiring (9D930) from camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (12126).

3. Remove camshaft position sensor retaining screws and camshaft position sensor from camshaft position sensor housing.

4. If removing camshaft position sensor housing from the engine front cover (6019), proceed with Removal Step 5. If camshaft position sensor housing is not being removed, proceed to Installation Step 7.

5. CAUTION: Before proceeding with this procedure, set cylinder No. 1 0 degrees Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. Then note the position of the camshaft position sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the connector be located in the same position.

Remove retaining bolt and hold-down clamp (12270).

6. Note: The oil pump intermediate shaft (6A618) should be removed with the camshaft position sensor housing.

Remove camshaft position sensor housing from engine front cover.


Installation

1. CAUTION: Special service tool Syncro Positioning Tool T96T-12200-A must be obtained prior to installation of the camshaft position sensor. Failure to follow this procedure will result in improper camshaft position sensor alignment. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage.

Attach Syncro Positioning Tool T96T-12200-A on camshaft position sensor housing and turn it clockwise until tool boss engages notch in camshaft position sensor housing.

2. Transfer oil pump intermediate shaft from old camshaft position sensor housing to replacement camshaft position sensor housing.

3. Install camshaft position sensor housing so drive gear engagement occurs when arrow on locator tool is pointed as shown in the illustration. This step will locate the camshaft position sensor electrical connector in the pre-removal position.

4. Rotate Syncro Positioning Tool T96T-12200-A clockwise slightly. This will engage the oil pump intermediate shaft. Push downward adjusting the syncro Positioning Tool T96T-12200-A until the Syncro gear engages the camshaft gear.

5. Install hold-down clamp and retaining bolt and tighten bolt to 20-30 N-m (15-22 lb-ft).

6. Remove Syncro Positioning Tool T96T-12200-A.

7. CAUTION: If camshaft position sensor electrical connector is not positioned properly, DO NOT reposition the connector by rotating the camshaft position sensor housing. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage. Remove the camshaft position sensor housing and repeat installation procedure, beginning with Step 1.

Install camshaft position sensor and retaining screws. Tighten screws to 2.5-3.5 N-m (22-30 lb-in).

8. Connect fuel charging wiring connector to camshaft position sensor.

9. Connect battery ground cable. Refer to «Section 14-01».


--
97 Mark VIII LSC/Silver/Gray leather
97 Cougar 4.6 Sport/White Opalescent Tricoat Metallic /Gray leather down but not out?
89 Cougar LS 3.8/Oxford White/Gray velour/HG need replaced AGAIN
00 Grand Marquis LS/Vibrant White/Gray velour
63 Falcon 302/black and rust/shed isn't moving
82 F-150/Oxford White/dumb VV carb doesn't pass emissions
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-01-2005, 08:48 PM
 
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I recently had to replace my '97 Taurus's squeaky cam synchronizer. Here are the steps if you do not have the synchro positioning tool. Note that Ford now calls the cam position sensor housing “the cam synchronizer” while only the actual sensor is referred to as the “cam position sensor”.
1. Set the engine at TDC.
2. Remove the cam position sensor.
3. Mark the vane shutter position on the cam synchronizer.
4. Mark the cam synchronizer position on the block.
5. Remove the retaining bolt and clamp.
6. Remove the cam synchronizer.

Installation is simple. Just make sure all your marks line up.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses guys. I guess tomorrow will be the test.

Wish me luck,
Rob

02 AL PI 4.6L, 02 GT MAF and air box, SCT tune by lonnie.
2.25" true duals, no cats, Borla XS mufflers.
96 trans with 300HP + gear change J-mod, Mark VIII TC, & Hayden 30K GVW cooler.
Solid Rubber engine and tranny mounts. Polly front-end, tranny crossmember, and IRS bushings.
3.73 TL, 93 Mark VIII DS. Tokico Blues all around.
PBR dual piston calipers in front, Rear Disc Brake Swap.
97 console. Cooper 225/60/16s.
14.874 @ 93.56 with 3.27 before 3.73 upgrade
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