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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-10-2005, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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Wirebrush?

I got the engine stripped down to the block and I'm cleaning off the heads for new Hg's. Ive tried some gasket remover spray and a scraper, but its not as clean as I want it/as it needs to be. My father keeps telling me to use a wire brush on a dremel tool or on a drill to clean the block up. He says since its cast iron it wont hurt it. I jsut dont wanna ruin the gasket surface for the new HG's and have to do this all over again in a few months. Can i use a wire brush ina drill/dremel tool as long as I dont put much pressure on it? I have this gut feeling not to, but I want to make sure.


Is there any suggestons on how to clean the block well enough for new hg's?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-10-2005, 08:54 PM
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I've used a wire brush on cast iron before and I mean on gasket surfaces. You can do Aluminum too if you use brass brissles. Yeah, if you're nervous, use a brass brush attachment on your dremel then finish up with acetone to cut the grease and oil.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-10-2005, 10:32 PM
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You can get little attachments for a wiz-wheel that has a bunch of rubber fingers on it and you can use that to clean off both the heads and the block. Works great and won't damage anything.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-11-2005, 09:35 PM
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3M Roloc Discs are your friend. This is from using an aluminum Roloc on my aluminum 4.6L block.



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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perch
You can do Aluminum too if you use brass brissles.
i would advise against this. i took a brass wire wheel on a drill to a set of aluminum fox stang valve covers, and it creating gouges in the metal. i would use a razor blade scraper on aluminum gasket surfaces. it may help to wet down any gasket remains.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 05:27 PM
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I'll defer here to Big Mike. I have however used brass on Al and you do have to be careful. I do think that brass on the iron block is safe.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 05:55 PM
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well, the wheel i used is about three inches in diameter, so the bristles will be stiffer. a bigger wheel may yield different results otherwise, due to more flexible bristles. either that or my valve covers are made of a softer aluminum than heads. brake cleaner is safe to use on aluminum, too.

for an iron block, fire away with the brass wire wheel.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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I tired a wire wheel on the block where the heads bolt on to...I got one side nice and shiney and clean. And no scratches. So hopefully i wont run into any problems wth the other side tomorrow night.


Does anyone have the torque specs for putting on the new heads/hg's?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big mike
well, the wheel i used is about three inches in diameter, so the bristles will be stiffer. a bigger wheel may yield different results otherwise, due to more flexible bristles. either that or my valve covers are made of a softer aluminum than heads. brake cleaner is safe to use on aluminum, too.

for an iron block, fire away with the brass wire wheel.
yeah, the ford v6 valvecovers and aluminum/magnesium alloy. Somewhat durable, but light weight.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-12-2005, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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oh, and speaking of the valve covers, when I pulled mine off, its like all the paint on them were bubbled up and scraped off easly...has anyone else ran into this? I'd like to repaint mine before I put them back on, but I'm unsure how well any type of paint will stick if the factory paint wont even hold up...hmm? I got a can of high-temp ford blue engine paint in a can, would that work? any good way to prep it besides making sure its cleaned throughly and scruff it up with sand paper?
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-13-2005, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas
yeah, the ford v6 valvecovers and aluminum/magnesium alloy. Somewhat durable, but light weight.
im referring to a set of 5.0 fox stang covers

187 - for torque specs, get a haynes manual from vatozone. very useful. when i painted my (v6) covers, the paint had started chipping too. i started to scrape it off, and it took a while. then my buddy's dad said let me take them to work and put them in a beadblasting cabinet. he did, and they came back clean. all the paint was gone, even around the ford logo. i proceeded to paint them, and the paint sticks well. high temp paint, absolutely. sandblasting will work, but im not sure if the sand will leave pits on the covers. maybe a light wire wheel action will get the paint off.

here's a shot of my somewhat detailed bay. notice the covers btw, they are actually for sale, along with my intakes.


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