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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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new engine/transmission mounts

A couple questions before I do this.

#1: Will it be a huge deal if I only get to do the driver's side mount (the one that's broken) until tomorrow when I have more time to do the passenger side and the trans mount (both are still good)?

#2: Anyone know what size sockets/wrenches I'll need to use? I'll be doing this at home, but I need to get the tools from my box which is up at the shop I work at.

I've been putting this off until I can get some time to do it at the shop (with a lift, and all the proper equipment to work with) but I noticed a spot on the oil pan where it is rubbing on the crossmember, so I need to get this taken care of as soon as possible. Thanks for your answers.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 11:14 AM
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#! is not a problem. It is a pain to do. Do one at a time, and have fun.!

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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you're not kidding it's a pain to do.

i worked for 2 hours today, and didn't get one thing done...not even one bolt.

first, my air compressor pump seized up, so i had no air to run my impact gun.

then i tried using a 1/2" breaker bar with extension to undo the through bolts that hold the bracket to the subframe, and broke the extension (i guess i'll be seeing the matco guy next week for a new one).

after that, my only option was to use 3/8" drive stuff with a bunch of extensions, but then i just couldn't get any kind of torque to break the bolts loose.

any suggestions to make this a bit easier? obviously working with the car in the air would make things a ton easier, but that's just not an option right now. it really is a pain working on the ground, but i have to get this done and i have no other way of doing it right now.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 03:50 PM
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I had the use of a lift, but we dropped the subframe as far as it would go and jacked up the engine as far as it would go and did both at the same time with the solid mounts.
Even on the lift it still sucked. You have my sympathy and best wishes.

Darrin
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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so looking at the diagram in the manual, it looks like you removed the 8 bolts holding the subframe to the unibody, then lowered it as far as it would go without ripping everything off that is attached to it, then stuck a jack under the engine and jacked it up as far as that would go, then proceeded with the engine mounts as before?

am i correct? i can't really tell if that would make it easier or if it would just be one more thing to get in the way (i am laying on the ground after all)

i spoke with the A tech where i work and he doesn't even want to touch it, he says he absolutely hates doing them because they're such a pain in the butt.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 04:30 PM
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try tapping the nut with a hammer, if you can fit one in there. maybe that will "shock" it some and break it loose.

when i cant break a nut or bolt loose, i usually get a hammer or rubber mallet and start tapping the handle of my ratchet or wrench as i pull it in the direction to loosen it. tap harder and harder and pull at the same time. just dont hit your hand with the hammer make sense?

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 06:15 PM
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I just put a board on top of a floor jack and jacked on the oil pan just enough to take pressure off the mounts, had both changed in 1.5 hours.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 06:21 PM
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We jacked my engine up until it lifted the car. There was no way that the mounts would go without dropping the K in that car, ask Alan
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 07:06 PM
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well, darrin you did this on a v8 right (as by your signature). 3.8's are a lot easier to work on! but i agree with rancherlee, thats how i would go about doing it. also, if you still can't get the bolts off, you can always put the motor on some jackstands (to relieve the pressure like rancher said) and use your jack on the end of the wrench to jack that sucker up until you can do it by hand, or if you have 2 hydralic jacks you can just leave on on the oil pan. i've use this technique many times, and it works pretty good.

just gotta get a little inventive! think mcgyver
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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well i'll have to call up my matco guy tomorrow to find out where he's at and get a new 1/2" extension and then i'll be trying out some of your suggestions. i have all day tomorrow to work on it, so hopefully i'll be able to get at least one changed.

feel free to keep the suggestions coming.

thanks for all your help guys!

-nick
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 08:11 PM
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well, darrin you did this on a v8 right (as by your signature). 3.8's are a lot easier to work on!
Nope, this was a 97 v6 car that I bought.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-24-2006, 11:12 PM
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13mm and 15mm wreches and socket, and flex head ratcheting wrenches make the total time a lot less. I did both motor mounts in about an hour and a half. the tranny would take about half an hour.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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bump for a new question....

i was able to get the right side mount changed a few weeks ago when i originally posted this, but ran out of time. i will have more time to work on the car next week, but was wondering if there were any tricks to doing the left side?

when i looked at it, the cat was right in the way on the back, and the only way to get to the bolts on the front was through a tiny hole in the subframe. i can stick an extension in there easily, but the lack of visibility makes it difficult to see what i'm doing. even if i could get all of the bolts out, it didn't look like the mount would come out easily because the cat is right in the way of where you would pull it down.

any suggestions to make it a bit easier? all you guys that are saying it took 1.5 hours to do both must know something i don't, since it took me almost 3 hours just to get the one changed.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 08:05 PM
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with a lift and knowledge, an hour and a half is about right. On your back the first time, nope.
I still say they suck. I would almost rather pull the tranny.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 08:08 PM
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ooooh come on guys, first time changing them only took me hour and a half with a lunch break! haha. In my driveway, I just put a 2x4 under the oil pan and jacked it up once I unbolted the mounts, and they slid right out.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
 
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yea, that's about what i figured. unfortunately, i don't have any time at work to get the car on the lift, so this will have to be done at home on the ground.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2006, 08:11 PM
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Changing the tranny mounts I've found the biggest pain so far to be the exhaust pipes! I have to get some joints put in so I can get them out of the way. I haven't done the motor mounts. [crosses fingers]mine are still good so far[/crosses fingers]


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