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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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cooling fans to a switch

got a question, i was curious if anyone has put there fans onto a switch. im kind of in a tough spot because the EEC doesn't seem to want to turn on the fans when it gets hot. i just got a chip made from lonnie for the stroker 3.8L motor i built and this i sthe only thing holding me up from driving this car. On the initial start up and first drive i noticed that the temp spiked to 205-210 degree's. i immediately shut it off. the fan clutch does work, because i isolated that by testing it. i would like to put the fans to a switch because it works out really well for my 91 SC? i also noticed that i have a push/pull fan. any thought on what size AMP to use??

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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 01:37 AM
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Hey- I transplanted a Taurus fan into my *cough* jeep *cough, and it needs a 60A relay for the high speed, and should have a 40A for the low, but I've been running a 30A for most of the summer with no problem.
Look for a thermostat that mounts on the radiator. That way you won't 'forget' the switch. I'd still put the switch in, so you can force the fan on, with the car off, for extra cooling.

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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M
Hey- I transplanted a Taurus fan into my *cough* jeep *cough, and it needs a 60A relay for the high speed, and should have a 40A for the low, but I've been running a 30A for most of the summer with no problem.
Look for a thermostat that mounts on the radiator. That way you won't 'forget' the switch. I'd still put the switch in, so you can force the fan on, with the car off, for extra cooling.

Peter M

i was thinking baout the 60amp, but what size wires did you use... 10 guage, 12 guage?????????

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 02:51 AM
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I belive I used 10 or 12 ga, but my runs were quite short.

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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well i ran the wires and the fan works great now, but the 12 guage wires are getting really hot quick even with the 60amp fuse. im a little concerned that it will cause future problems.. any thoughts?

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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 05:54 AM
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I'd at least use 10 gauge wire, and that would be just for short lengths. You are using a relay, right? Running that much current all the way to the interior of the car isn't a good idea.

-Rod

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar
I'd at least use 10 gauge wire, and that would be just for short lengths. You are using a relay, right? Running that much current all the way to the interior of the car isn't a good idea.

-Rod
no, i am not using a relay at the moment and its not a short length either, what do you recommend?

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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i found this on the web, will this work????????????






COOLING FAN SWITCH - 85-86 Thunderbird or Cougar
by Jim Portteus

If your Radiator Cooling Fan isn't working on your 85-86 Thunderbird or Cougar, here's a way to wire in a manual switch to control the fan.

First, insure that your Cooling Fan does work. You can do this by using a 12-volt hot wire and a ground wire. Unplug the fan and connect the wires to the terminals on the fan plug. Be sure to keep clear of the fan blades!

Tools you'll need: Torx Bit Screwdriver

Phillips Screwdriver

Wire Cutters/Crimping Tool

Light (Circuit) Tester



Parts you'll need: 15 amp 12volt Lighted Rocker Switch

30 amp Relay

25 amp Fuse and Fuse Holder

7 12 gauge (Blue) Spade Connectors (for the back of the Switch and Relay)

1 10 gauge (Yellow) Butt Connector (for splicing)

2 12 gauge (Blue) Ring Connector (for ground wires)

~24 inches of 12 gauge wire

If your fan motor is OK, locate the Fan Control Relay behind the glove box. You access it from under the glove box. It's held on with one screw. You may have to take out the glove box, but on mine there was enough slack in the wiring to pull the whole unit down.

You'll need to leave the box in place with all the other wiring because this relay also controls the A/C Clutch.





Fan Control Relay



This is how the wiring is on my car:



Fan Control Relay Plug



Wire/Stripe Color Gauge:

1. Yellow/Red 16 From Coolant Temp Sensor in Lower Intake

2. Orange/Black 12 Always Hot

3. Orange/Blue 16

4. Black 14 Ground

5. Brown/Yellow 12 To Radiator Fan

6. Pink/Blue 14 From Heater/AC Control (signals A/C on)

7. Black/Yellow 16 To A/C Clutch

8. Grey/Yellow 12 Ignition Hot




Tap into the #8 wire and connect it to the 12V+ terminal on the switch. I just cut the wire in two, and stuck a new 12 gauge wire along with one end of the #8 wire in and crimped, then stuck the other end of the #8 in the other side and crimped it. You could use one of those blue wire tap things, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Now connect the Switched terminal (sometimes labeled "Acc.") on the switch to Terminal 85 on the Relay.

Connect a wire between Terminal 86 of the Relay and ground.

Splice into the #2 wire to feed 12V to the Fuse Holder w/ fuse. Then connect the other end of the fuse holder to Terminal 30 on the Relay.

Cut wire #5 and connect it to Terminal 87 on the Relay.

Finally, connect a short wire to the Ground terminal on the switch (be sure to ground the other end of this wire). This wire lets the switch light up so you know the Fan is getting power.

Now mount the switch using one of the screws that holds the glove box.

I've found that I don't have to run the fan when it's cool outside (unless I let the car sit and idle for more than a few minutes). You will want to run the fan whenever you run the A/C in the summer, though. This will keep air flowing over the A/C Condenser (in front of the Radiator) so cool air will keep flowing inside your car!

A side note:

I now have installed a Thermostatic Fan Controller (Carquest part number 77528). It can control two fans (with the addition of another fuse holder) and also ties into the A/C so the fans run whenever the A/C is activated. This provides me peace of mind that the car won't overheat if case I would forget to turn on the fan manually. The install took me about 2 hours.

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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 08:33 AM
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Shoulda made life easier on yourself and find a replacement IRCM module.......

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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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oh well, to late now!

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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.3Lcougar
no, i am not using a relay at the moment and its not a short length either, what do you recommend?
A 60 amp relay with short 10 gauge 12V, feed, and ground wires would be ideal.

In a pinch, two 30 amp relays wired in parallel will work, but it's "rigging it" if you ask me.

-Rod

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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 07:28 PM
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I was doing some looking around on the web, and I can't seem to find a 60a universal relay. Anyone know where one could be picked up? I can find 40a relays without any problem, but I can't seem to locate anything heavier than that.

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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how well do you guys think that having the fans in the push position fair in cooling( pushing the hot engine heat out the front while driving) will it go any good, or just be fighting to cool. im anxious to drive my car.....my original set up works good in the pull position, but not so well in push

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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkadder
I was doing some looking around on the web, and I can't seem to find a 60a universal relay. Anyone know where one could be picked up? I can find 40a relays without any problem, but I can't seem to locate anything heavier than that.

http://www.electrostock.com/pic/picautomotive.htm

60 amp relay thats what i'm about to get to run manual fans on my cars.
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.3Lcougar
how well do you guys think that having the fans in the push position fair in cooling( pushing the hot engine heat out the front while driving) will it go any good, or just be fighting to cool. im anxious to drive my car.....my original set up works good in the pull position, but not so well in push

If you're running a pusher fan, it needs to be in front of the radiator. If you're running a puller fan, it needs to be to the rear of the radiator. You want the air to flow from the front of the car through the radiator into the engine bay.

-Rod

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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 07:54 PM
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Thanks Birdman.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdman232
http://www.electrostock.com/pic/picautomotive.htm

60 amp relay thats what i'm about to get to run manual fans on my cars.

Ron

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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar
If you're running a pusher fan, it needs to be in front of the radiator. If you're running a puller fan, it needs to be to the rear of the radiator. You want the air to flow from the front of the car through the radiator into the engine bay.

-Rod

well its the stock fan which has both! its mounted behind the radiator originally.

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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
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well its the stock fan which has both! its mounted behind the radiator originally.
If you're getting the stock fan to push air from the engine compartment through the radiator toward the front of the car, you have that circuit wired backwards. The stock fan is a two speed (low and high speed) puller fan.

-Rod

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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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really???!!!! there was only three wires coming from the fan. when i checked the fan the first time to make sure the clutch was good, i took both wires to power on the battery and the ground to ground. and that was the way it was. 2 different directions. push/pull!!!!????, i thought the same thing as you racecougar, because i did the same thing with my SC when the relay went out. and when i tested one wire.. it was pull( as it should be) then i did the other wire and the fan stopped and switched directions!

now im really confused!!!!

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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 05:42 AM
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Trust me, reverse the polarity of the two wires that are causing the fan to run in reverse. It's not supposed to do that.


-Rod

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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 10:20 AM
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I have the fan on my Mark VIII rigged to switch it on command via a wireless relay as an over-ride at the track.

To improve upon this I put in a digital controller to switch the fan on/off at programmed temperature USING THE STOCK TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT. This thing is cool. It can control a single speed fan, a dual-speed fan or two fans or more.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/pac-2000b.pdf
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar
Trust me, reverse the polarity of the two wires that are causing the fan to run in reverse. It's not supposed to do that.


-Rod

how do i do that? i know i sound stupid for asking this, but explain please!
thanks

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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 05:11 PM
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how do i do that? i know i sound stupid for asking this, but explain please!
thanks
Take those two wires, and switch their locations. I.E.: The one supplying 12V to the fan needs to switch places with the one supplying the ground.

-Rod

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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 05:52 PM
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blah get an aftermarket fan and be done with it
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racecougar
Take those two wires, and switch their locations. I.E.: The one supplying 12V to the fan needs to switch places with the one supplying the ground.

-Rod

I got 3 wires that go in to a connector to the fan. if i read wires at the connector i should see 12V right?

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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-09-2006, 08:31 PM
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I got 3 wires that go in to a connector to the fan. if i read wires at the connector i should see 12V right?
Ok, you have three wires at the fan. One wire is either supplied with 12V or a ground (I can't remember at the moment). The other two wires are the trigger wires for the low and high speeds, which receive the opposite of the supply wire (they either supply a ground or 12V).

If you have a Helm's wiring diagram or a factory Ford service manual for your car, it's all laid out in there.

-Rod

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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-10-2006, 02:20 AM
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Ok according the my info the three wires are as follows:

Dark Blue - Low Speed Power
Brown/Orange - High Speed Power
Black - Ground

Hope that helps.

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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-10-2006, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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well, ill play around with it!

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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-11-2006, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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i got it to work correctly, thanks guys!!!

had the high speed wire to ground. i am so stupid!!!

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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-11-2006, 01:49 AM
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