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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Bypass AC compressor?

I know on some motors you can get a shorter belt and bypass the AC compressor and on some you can't depending on how it all winds around everything. Can we do it on our 3.8s? If so what belt can we use?

Thanks!

Jake
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 08:08 PM
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I don't think there is a specific belt that bypasses the compressor. You would have to run a string around the pulleys (make sure the direction of rotation is correct) and see if a parts store can get you close.

As I remember, older Mustangs had a pulley and bracket that you could install on the engine to replace the compressor and still utilize the stock belt. I am not sure if this would work on an MN12, but like most problems, if you throw enough money at them they go away.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 04:12 PM
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Post up a pic of a 3.8s belt routing, and I will figure out a way for you to re-route the belt bypassing the AC.

Mike

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 04:16 PM
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Motormite make a bypass pulley, part# 34184. You can get one at Autozone, though they'll probably have to special order it.

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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cool thx if they make a pulley kit there must not be a way to re-route it like you can on a 4.6L and I can't find any pics of the front of the motor anyway. I'll look into a kit.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 07:00 PM
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I can't see how it would be bypassed seeing that it would hit the water pump without the A/C there and not be tensioned by the idler pulley, but here's the pic of it.


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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN12BIRD
cool thx if they make a pulley kit there must not be a way to re-route it like you can on a 4.6L and I can't find any pics of the front of the motor anyway. I'll look into a kit.
They make a 4.6L kit too, yet all you have to do on a stock 96-7 Bird 4.6 is use a 79 inch belt. but yeah, looking at that diagram I don't see a way.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-14-2006, 09:40 PM
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Ok, its hard to say if this will work or not, but here is what I would try. Starting from the crank, go left around the tensioner, then up to the top of the idler, so that the grooved side of the belt is riding on the idler pulley, then around the alternator and down to the power steering pump, the up and wrap around the water pump, then back to the crank. Without seeing the actual front of the engine I'm not sure if it will work or not. You might not have enough clearance from the water pump pulley where the belt goes from the tensioner to the idler. If you can make it past there, then it will work, but if not you will need the delete pulley.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-15-2006, 12:30 AM
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Nah, it wouldn't clear the water pump. And wouldn't it be bad for the ribs of the belt to ride on the idler pulley?

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-15-2006, 08:34 AM
 
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MN12BIRD,

Here's what you need to do. I did this exact thing this summer because my compressor locked up. It's been fine ever since.

You can remove the idler pully up next to the alternator. Then remove the belt tensioner located underneath the AC compressor. You can then put it in place of the idler. You'll need to drill a hole in the idler pulley bracket to allow the dowell from the belt tensioner to fit properly. Then you can use a shorter belt and completely bypass the AC compressor and where the belt tensioner used to be. You'll need a belt around 57.5" long. You might want to get this first because these are usually a special order item for a 6 rib belt. However, as a temporary belt you could use a 5 rib belt of the same length. You'd need to tell the guys at the counter exactly this, though, because they may not understand what you're trying to do.

I did this about 6 months ago and it's been running great ever since.

Email me at [email protected] if you need more details.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-16-2006, 04:44 PM
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just take off the AC compressor, tensioner assembly, and the entire passenger side accessory bracket off. Then route it with a shorter belt, and like Tiberius said, remove the idler assembly and drill a small hole for the tensioner assembly dowel to fit on the driver side accessory bracket, install the tensioner assembly, and put on the belt. Worked for me


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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-16-2006, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
 
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damn yes it did. looks so much simpler and clean too! nice engine bay!
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-16-2006, 11:31 PM
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Nice engine bay Thomas. Looks good.

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-17-2006, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas
just take off the AC compressor, tensioner assembly, and the entire passenger side accessory bracket off. Then route it with a shorter belt, and like Tiberius said, remove the idler assembly and drill a small hole for the tensioner assembly dowel to fit on the driver side accessory bracket, install the tensioner assembly, and put on the belt. Worked for me


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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-17-2006, 08:39 PM
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I did it myself. I got a 3g 130amp off of ebay, it was in great condition, but I had to pull it apart to coat it, so I rebuilt it while I had it all apart, might as well. That way I know its good for a long time. I can do yours too, if you want.
-Thomas

edit: oh, you have a gun too I see. Well PM me if you want instructions.

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2006, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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I just took another look under my hood and I swear the tensioner is already beside the alternator on my car! and it really looks like the idler is down below the compressor! WTF is up with that!
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2006, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN12BIRD
I just took another look under my hood and I swear the tensioner is already beside the alternator on my car! and it really looks like the idler is down below the compressor! WTF is up with that!
nah youre wrong, its the other way around.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2006, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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does the idler pulley look JUST like a tensioner on an arm and everything?
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-30-2006, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MN12BIRD
does the idler pulley look JUST like a tensioner on an arm and everything?
yes, minus the internal spring.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-27-2007, 12:21 AM
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might do this to my totaly stock 3.8 with 200k miles on it...lol...will it pick up any horses?

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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-27-2007, 12:30 AM
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I hope you arent serious, seeing as you are pretty knowledgable. But no. Or at least not more than 1hp, just from less rotating mass of pulleys. Weight reduction will make it faster though, from weight savings. about 2.5lbs of refrigerant, 10 lbs on the condensor, 2lbs on the dryer/accumulator, 30lbs on the comrpessor and accessory bracket.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-27-2007, 12:39 AM
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i was just kidding...

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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas View Post
just take off the AC compressor, tensioner assembly, and the entire passenger side accessory bracket off. Then route it with a shorter belt, and like Tiberius said, remove the idler assembly and drill a small hole for the tensioner assembly dowel to fit on the driver side accessory bracket, install the tensioner assembly, and put on the belt. Worked for me


-Thomas
I know this is a necropost but after trying to figure out how Thomas made this work on his tbird, I had the TCCOA system email him and asked him for details. On my 95 3.8L Tbird, my problem was that I couldn't see how to align up the Tensioner where the idler assembly sat as the bracket wasn't in the same plane.

This was his reply:

HI I'm not active with MN12's anymore, but I'm still doing the Ford thing with an 88 notch stang. Anyway, you'll need an 89-93 accessory bracket. The 94+ brackets used an integrated arm cast in to the bracket with an idler pulley. My bracket used an idler arm that is otherwise identical to the tensioner, but solid and with an offset location dowel. So all I had to do was simply drill a new hole in the bracket for the tensioner dowel to align properly, and I was done.

I believe the solution (for me at least) is to find an A/C delete bracket b/c it'll be cheaper than trying to find this specific accessory bracket unless it's a good junkyard find.


-g
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-02-2011, 11:49 PM
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That accessory bracket is on every 89-93 3.8N/A and SC MN12

-Matt
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