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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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hestating and lack of power

well i finally got the baffles on the valve covers for the splitport 4.3L, but now it seems like the duration between shifts have become long winded. it was very responsive prior to the baffles and i dont think that its related at all to it, but what do you guys think.

it feels like a cross between lack of fuel and a tranny slip. the transmission is new and fluid level is normal. fuel pressure is at 20-22psi. i know that my o2 sensors are dirty from the oil blowing out the back and my rotor and cap are new! and sometimes feel like when your on the throttle and let completely off the pedal it decellerates faster then normal. i dont know where to even look. but i was going to clean the o2 sensors and pull the plugs to see it there nasty too. any other suggestions

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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.3Lcougar
sometimes feel like when your on the throttle and let completely off the pedal it decellerates faster then normal
that happened to me 3 years ago on my way to a meet...to make a long funny story short, it ended up being my maf...might want to clean it off? if not i dont know what to tell you, im too burned out from the engine swap
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 02:07 AM
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That fuel pressure seems way too low. I don't know how you have your setup configured but stock is about 29-32 psi at idle and 39-41 psi with no vacuum.

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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 03:24 AM
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yea now that i re-read that your pressure is kinda low man...you should have swapped in a 04 pi motor
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop
yea now that i re-read that your pressure is kinda low man...you should have swapped in a 04 pi motor

i had the same problem...

also, when i had it in park and reved it up, it was extremly slow and wouldnt rev past like 3k, and when i gave it gas it just bogged down unless the trans down shifted.


my fuel pump was bad, so i got a new one, and it helped a little bit, but the thing that made the biggest diffrence was the mass air flow sensor, i replaced that and then cranked it and noticed a diffrence right from the start. it revs fairly quickly now and when i give it gas it does what its soposed to.


i would definately recomend replacing the maf.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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well the MAF is new 73mm from SCP, i think ill clean the maf and raise the fuel pressure to 30psi. i agree the a pi swap might have been better but ive liked this swap so far, other then the issues here and there.... is there a special cleaner for mafs or is it just the same as a airintake/throttlebody cleaner????

i also noticed some backfires from the exhaust today.....huh!!!????

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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.3Lcougar
well the MAF is new 73mm from SCP, i think ill clean the maf and raise the fuel pressure to 30psi. i agree the a pi swap might have been better but ive liked this swap so far, other then the issues here and there.... is there a special cleaner for mafs or is it just the same as a airintake/throttlebody cleaner????

i also noticed some backfires from the exhaust today.....huh!!!????

i belive the cleaner is the same, i dont think it matters too much.
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 12:21 PM
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just use throttlebody cleaner....carb cleaner will leave a residue
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 02:21 PM
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Backfiring? Are you sure the timing is right? Because that could also cause your lack of power.

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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 02:32 PM
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backfire? can we say timing is off?
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop
backfire? can we say timing is off?
i should have explained that a little better, when im driving and let off the gas, the rpms obviously go down, (deacceleration issue) and i'd get a occasional .....put put .....put....put.. like when you down shift... but i ended up cleaning the throttlebody and the maf, up'd the fuel pressure to 32-35 and put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank, and she seems to be back to her normal self... acceleration is definitely better and rpm's raise quicker instead on hanging out under 3000rpm. but i still have the put's from the exhaust... but other than that it seems to be good!

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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-23-2007, 09:52 PM
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great!!!

now when are we gonna take some engine bay shots side by side
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-24-2007, 01:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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great!!!

now when are we gonna take some engine bay shots side by side

what to see which one looks better...LOL i guess whenever we have another meet or you sell something to me where i have to pick it up......

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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-24-2007, 10:26 AM
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you're lucky you havent melted your pistons with that kind of fuel pressure. Get a freakin dyno tune man. You'll be surprised how many problems will disappear when you have a custom engine custom tuned.

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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-24-2007, 02:18 PM
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yea its just 150 an hour for a dyno tune
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop
yea its just 150 an hour for a dyno tune
And how much does a melted piston cost? How much do you spend on an aftermarket part to get 6-10rwhp?

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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 08:01 PM
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Wow. I wouldn't drive my cars more than on/off the trailer without a dynotune. Do you at least have a wideband hooked up to it to monitor the A/F ratio?

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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-26-2007, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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who's got a trailer and where is there a dyno tuning palce in the central valley!!!!
obviously i am destroying my car by driving it.........

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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-26-2007, 08:25 AM
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well potentially yes. If you run it too lean you'll melt a piston. If you run it too rich you're just washing your cylinder walls and causing a lot of premature wear. Just want the best for your motor here. You'll get a lot more results from it with a dyno tune.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-27-2007, 07:44 AM
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with the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator your fuel pressure MUST BE 40-42psi at idle, your computer won't be able to compensate enough if its off too much either way.
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post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-27-2007, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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vacume line is on the regulator

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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-28-2007, 01:24 AM
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What rancher is saying is, adjust the FPR so that your fuel pressure at the rail is between 40 and 42 PSI at idle with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged. Then reconnect it and get a chip burned man. Even if you don't get a dyno tune, at least call one of the major tuners and describe your configuration so they can get you closer than where you are.

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post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-28-2007, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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du i did get a chip burned. unless your saying that i need another reburn on my current chip.

what a pain....

so what ive gather'd here, .....i need a tune, wideband o2's higher fuel pressure and a reburn....correct.

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post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-28-2007, 03:53 PM
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I didn't know you were running a custom chip. I would say, get your FPR dialed in and see how it runs. If it's not a LOT better, call the guys who did your chip and explain the situation.

Do you ever get the CEL?

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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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24/7. it will stay off for about 5-7 seconds on a start up and then come on....

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post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 08:59 AM
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Have you checked to see what codes it's throwing?

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post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-29-2007, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_Keady
I didn't know you were running a custom chip. I would say, get your FPR dialed in and see how it runs. If it's not a LOT better, call the guys who did your chip and explain the situation.

Do you ever get the CEL?
regardless of having a chip. Nothing does it like a good ole dyno tune. A tuner can only GUESS what A/F to dial in with a mail order tune. I've seen people melt pistons mmmkay. Just be careful. I'm still on a mail order tune and I was at the specific fuel pressure and on a prolonged WOT interstate run I got my headers glowing red, which indicates a lean mixture = melting pistons if you're not too careful, luckily I didnt run it any longer. I pushed the FP up, but that only hides the problem. I'm now running really rich down low. Only a dyno tune can fix this correctly. But Im waiting to get the M112 SC put on first.
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post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 12:11 AM
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I realize that it won't be optimal without getting it on the rollers, but you should be able to get it safe to drive around a little and I'm kinda trying to figure out if he's got more problems than just the tune. It's a beyotch to trailer the car all the way to the dyno to tune it, only to find out that you've got a bad sensor or a wiring problem.

That said, 4.3Lcougar, have you looked at the codes it's throwing?

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post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I realize that it won't be optimal without getting it on the rollers, but you should be able to get it safe to drive around a little and I'm kinda trying to figure out if he's got more problems than just the tune. It's a beyotch to trailer the car all the way to the dyno to tune it, only to find out that you've got a bad sensor or a wiring problem.

That said, 4.3Lcougar, have you looked at the codes it's throwing?

its hard to read codes only because its OBD1. but i did just get a ebay code reader. so ill try to do that, but i dont feel like that should be a solid source of code info....i can pretty much guess that it will be o2 sensors because of the non-baffled valvecovers i have. (which have been built and corrected).

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post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-30-2007, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.3Lcougar
its hard to read codes only because its OBD1. but i did just get a ebay code reader. so ill try to do that, but i dont feel like that should be a solid source of code info....i can pretty much guess that it will be o2 sensors because of the non-baffled valvecovers i have. (which have been built and corrected).
But are arent certain are you. No. Get the codes read. And also, if you dont have a tune for the engine, the codes it throws can be pertaining to that. ie: lean mixture indicated, rich mixture indicated, EGR flow insufficient (cams can do this)

Driving an untuned car to the dyno is not dangerous if you keep your foot off the pedal. In fact, my buddy Joe drove his ported NPI heads, PI intake and cams Cougar from Iowa to Kansas City for a tune, getting 32mpg the whole way. Its the WOT and higher RPM tuning that usually is the dangerous aspect of an untuned car, which is what you're modifying the car for anyway. So get it tuned

-Thomas

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