Oil Level Indicator Tube broke at the block - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Level Indicator Tube broke at the block

While replacing the heads, the Oil Level Indicator Tube broke at the block. Its a clean break (flush with the block) but what do I do? I was not able to pull it out before when it was whole, how do I get the rest of the stub out or make a fix?

Any ideas would be appreciated!

Thanks.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 09:43 PM
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well, it should have just pulled right out except for the part that has a header bolt going through it. you could always try drilling it out very carefully if you have the motor out, but even then thats a little dangerous. the easiest thing might be to get one from a junk yard and grind it down until it fits the smaller hole, and put some silicone around it so it doesn't leak.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-01-2007, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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Drilling is out of the question. Last thing I need is shavings in the pan...

The last 3.8l I did the tube just pulled out with no problems. This one, no matter what I did it would not come out. Then while moving it to the side I heard a tear.

I was thinking of going to the hardware store and getting a peice of tubing that just fits inside the tube and make a sleve to go between the two and use some silicon to seal it. I will see how it goes.

Engine is still in the car:



Thanks for the help.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 05:49 AM
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My dipstick tube broke when I was pulling it out of my 94 SC block, same place as yours. I had to drop the oil pan and tap it out from the backside, but I needed to change the oil pan anyways, it was broken.

- Dan
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 08:01 AM
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well the trick is to put plenty of grease on your drill bit. that keeps the shavings out, and just do a quick oil change with some cheap oil, then put the good oil in. but since it's still in the car, yeah, i would try to do some adapter stuff, or like i said, find another one and grind it down until it fits the smaller hole.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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Will do. Thanks guys for the help. I will let you know what I find out and what I do to alleviate the problem.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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This is how you do it...



You will need:
PB penetrating oil
Mac EX-4 EZ-Out or similar
Tap wrench (you will need to tighten the flange with pliers or something so it is real tight)
Something to turn the EZ-Out with (I used an Allen wrench - they usually come with a rod)
Small hammer to seat the EZ-Out into the tube
Large hammer and pipe to tap on the Allen wrench (or rod) used to turn the EZ-Out and knock the tube loose so it will start to turn (1/4 at a time! That sucks.)
Something to loop through the Tap wrench / EZ-Out (where the Allen wrench or rod goes) to turn it while pulling on it. I used an old u-bolt with a washer on it to hold onto it while turning.

Once you see the tube is turning, that is time to put the "u-bolt" start turning and pulling.



Hope this helps someone.

Last edited by white lincoln; 04-02-2007 at 11:43 PM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 11:14 PM
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glad to hear you got it dude, just make sure you flush that oil well incase any shavings from the tap got in the pan.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2007, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Oh crap. I said tap and I ment EZ-out! Frack!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2007, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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It dawned on me tonight while working the old Oil Level tube that it was painted black by Ford and the other ones where all just stainless steel and no paint. The paint must corrode in the block and that is what makes it stick inside the block. So it you have a 94 3.8l, be careful on pulling out the Oil Level tube because it is most likely frozen in because it was painted.
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