Hey all, I'm new to the site and learning how to navigate it but I joined up because it seems like a lot of guys over here have some great knowledge about the SVO style supercharger.
I've got one installed on my 1996 Mustang Gt but haven't been able to get it running correctly for months. I have a nice misfire at idle that won't go away. I've been doing remote tuning through dirtydirtyracing.com since he reached out to me with experience tuning these things.
I wanted to chase down the misfire before I purchase better injectors and throw more money into it.
I changed back to my stock injectors, stock coil packs (was converted to coil on plugs), stock MAF sensor, took apart my wiring harness to look for broken wires, and returned the tune to stock... still have the miss.
I think it comes down to my vacuum harness, I haven't been able to find direct information on how to run the vacuum lines and I think they are off (possibly causing the misfire).
I did some digging on this forum and MikeB said he had a sketch he emailed someone. I am unable to send PMs so I figured I'd make a post. Does anyone have a complete vacuum diagram for these?
Thanks for the diagram Mike! I appreciate the help!
dDUBb: I have a set of the 30# injectors originally from the kit but they looked pretty beat up. I bought some 42# injectors off eBay but I don't trust their quality after the first two remote tunes were loaded on my car. I'm leaning towards buying a set of 47# with EV1 adapters from the tuner I've been using. If that doesn't work and you want to let the FRPP PCM go, let me know what you want for it.
Trunk Monkey: I'll plan to pull the plugs after I re-arrange some vacuum lines. I just installed NGK TR6 plugs gapped at .033.
I'm running a Walbro 255 lph pump 42# injectors (which may need replaced with higher quality brand) and a 90mm MAF sensor
I put the stock injectors and MAF back in and reloaded the stock tune so I could try to pinpoint the misfire without other variables being in the way. I will keep you guys posted but I hope fixing the vacuum lines makes a difference.
Thanks for the information and phone number for Robert!
I ran the vacuum lines as MikeB described and started messing around with the car while it was running...
I pulled all the spark plug wires from the cylinder heads one at a time and each one is firing away when the engine is running. The engine seems to stumble when I pull each individual injector too so I think those are doing fine too.
I watched an old video of right after I installed my comp xE-262-ah cams 2 years ago and realized that my engine shook a little more than normal (but ran great for 2 years). So I pulled the belt off and realized that the knocking sound is coming from the snout of the supercharger when I rotate it by hand back & forth. I'm not ruling out a misfire but the snout spring might be what's causing my knocking issue.
I'll keep you guys posted as I dig deeper into it but I really appreciate the help so far
I let it run and it's idling smooth except for the sound of a box of rocks shaking in the front of the supercharger. I used a dowel rod to pinpoint the sound and it was coming from the snout. After seeing all the slack it has when turning the pulley by hand (no tension with the belt removed) and doing some googling it looks like I have a bad coupler.
Anyone have advice on a good coupler to replace it with? And does anyone know if a standard m112 coupler fits on this unit?
I ordered a solid one like you recommend, and yes the price is reasonable enough that I should've replaced it regardless before the install. The stock plastic one on mine was almost fused to the snout pins and the spring moved freely back & forth so it was probably a matter of time before the slack broke it more
Installed the new solid coupler last night, the thing fit so snug in the pins that it took some tapping with a plastic hammer to get the snout seated and there is no slack in the pulley anymore.
I wanted to give the rtv gasket some time to dry before filling it with oil so I'll fill it up tonight after work and see how it runs.
Threw some oil in the supercharger case and fired the old pig up. It's running pretty damn smooth now with the new pulley and stock MAF, Injectors, and tune. It is rich as hell (14-15 to 1 on my AFR gauge) but that'll be sorted out.
I'll probably email my tuner tomorrow and order some FRPP injectors so he can finish remote tuning the car with the proper supporting air and fuel components. I also need to put the wiring harness back together and clean things up a bit.
14.7 is Stoichiometric on a NA gasoline engine with a factory tune .. at 11% rich, you would want to get it to 13.1. On a supercharged engine, you'll be looking for about 11.47 AFR - the tuner will figure it out. :wink2:
Thanks for the link TrunkMonke. The tuner has been great to work with so far and has put up with my extremely slow progress so I figure I should give him my business for (hopefully) the last significant purchase for this project. I think the extra few bucks for a good shop might help out a little.
I'll keep that site for future use, they've got the best prices I've seen so far.
Figure I should keep this thread updated. The injectors should be here this weekend.
In the mean time I bought a set of $100 stock wheels to roll around on since my current set of tires kept losing air and I have no desire to spend the money to replace 18" tires right now. The car runs well as is (staying out of boost of course) so I put some miles on it over the weekend.
Hoping to get the rest of the parts and tuning done soon so I can enjoy it for a few months before snow starts flying.
Drove the car a bit but it wasn't going into boost without some serious throttle so I bought a 2" shorter belt to make up for the difference in pulley size from the supercharger and the removed a/c compressor.
It hits boost easier but has a tendency to kick the belt off. After a few days of investigation I've discovered that my alternator must be the culprit; every other pulley seems to be aligned properly and spin straight but the alternator has a clearly noticeable wobble when spun by hand.
Changed the alternator... cranked like hell but wouldn't start. Checked all the fuses and connections, still won't start. Switched back to the old alternator and it still won't start.
Inertia switch looked good and the fuel pump seems To be humming so I'm not sure what to do next.
I spent the morning checking voltage, fuel pressure and spark. Walked away after all checked out ok.
I realized that after doing some wire tucking that the crank sensor wires sat right under the alternator and probably got jolted after several alternator swaps. Found a broken solder point, fixed it and it fired right up.
The things I learn from doing stupid things is endless!!
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