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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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need rebuild help for trans experts

I started to put my trans back together last night. I install the steels and frictions in the direct clutch and i have over .100" of play. I did install them dry and was going to soak the whole drum before installing in the trans. Will the frictions swell after being soaked, I know you are supposed to soak them before you install them. The spec is .062-.091 or so depending on the book I look in. It already has the thickest snap ring in it. Any insight would be great. Thank you in advance.
Corey
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-25-2010, 11:04 PM
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IMO (not a professional trans expert) I think you should be fine once you soak them, on the AODE that i rebuilt i had a little bit more clearance than the specs said and it worked out. Just make sure that if you have a belleville clutch to put it in the right direction inside the drum.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-26-2010, 08:10 AM
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It will be fine. What you may notice with more clearance is a harsher engagement when the clutch applies.

Did you use a 6 or 7 plate stack?

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-26-2010, 12:20 PM
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Use this rule of thumb when stacking frictions. No less than .005 no more than .010 per friction. There are few exceptions to the rule (4r100 reverse to name one) however in this transmission if you keep within those specifications you will not have problems. Tight packs apply smoother and loose packs apply more aggressively. You can buy thicker steels when needed, are you removing the pressure plate or using it? If you are removing it stack the top 3 using .080 steels to stiffen the top of the pack.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys very much. I have another question and it will likely not be the last. The forward clutches were fried and the wave spring does not look good were can i find one and should it be stock or from a 5.4 truck. I read that somewhere on here and wanted your opinion. Thank again.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 07:29 PM
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You can stack it without a wave plate if you want. the OEM plate will give softer shifts than the 5.4 and no wave plate will give the hardest shifts.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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If you dont and a wave spring do you add an extra steel then?
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ok after more research I am really lost now. I was going to get the 5.4 wave spring (XL3Z-7E085-A). But my trans is a 1995 and I read that the stock one is .039 and the 5.4 is .081 is this correct and if so is there a way to make it work safely. Sorry for all the question but I really only want to do this once. Thank you all so much!!!
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 12:23 AM
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I remove the wave spring then add one friction and one steel. Sometimes you have to add 2 steels to get clearance right. Most of the time one is enough.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 09:51 AM
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If this is a street car, daily driver, under 600 hp, just go with 5 in the fwd with the 98+ .07 wave that is common to find. I have found the clearance with the OLD stamped drum (pre96) with the .083 truck wave, and sometimes even the .07 wave is too tight. If you can't fit the .07 then just use the .034 it sounds like you have. The .034 NEVER looks good, they are not the same material as the newer units. They are just spring steel...and it will work fine.

On the direct, sounds like you went with .068 clutches and .07 steels. The 6 clutch uses .068 clutches and .079 steels. HOWEVER YOU WILL be okay, but you might dig up some .079 steels to get it right - or just keep stacking for a 7 clutch using 2 steels or more for a top PP.

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I am finally going back together with my trans. I installed all the internals and have a snap ring left over. I have looked in the book and looked at exploded views and must be overlooking it. The snap ring is large ,like 7 in around, it is just smaller than the one that goes in the case after the planetary that has the tabs. Please help if you have any ideas, I would like to install the trans this weekend. Once again sorry for all the stupid questions. I should be getting good at putting this together, I have had it apart 4 times now.
Thanks again
Corey
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 09:33 AM
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I always put those back, but I know that some don't. It's the snap ring that goes in the case just before you put the reverse band in place.

I have to think that since Ford spent the money on that ring that it serves a purpose but I never looked into why it's there, and like I said, some leave those out when they rebuild these. I don't know why one would do that on purpose since the thing is right there and it doesn't take anything to put right back where it came from.

But since the band rides on the reverse servo pin and the 2 pins in the case, I guess it would be ok to leave it out. Sure wish I knew off the top of my head why Ford went through the effort and expense on that par thought. It has to do something.

P.S. though, if it were me, I would go back in and put it back. I have never left one out.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 11:22 AM
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Sounds like the snap ring that goes above the planetary gearset. It was used as an assembly aid. You can delete it however it does help with getting the reverse band lined up with the servo. I have left them out on many occasions even tho I generally just put them back in. It won't hurt anything or help anything either way. The original purposes was so that when the transmission went down the assembly line the planet didn't fall out. After production it is just a spare part like the bobber floating in the pan.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Hey thanks guys, it threw me for a loop since there is not an actual groove for it to sit in. I took it back apart and put it in. Now just have the VB and the pan and put it back in. Cant wait to finally drive it. Hopefully by Monday night
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ok hopefully this will be the last dumb question. What is the propose and how important is the rubber piece that slides over the output shaft in the tailshaft housing. I went to the bench to get the bolts for the starter(the last thing to put in) and found it laying on the bench.
Thanks Again
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by birdless View Post
Ok hopefully this will be the last dumb question. What is the propose and how important is the rubber piece that slides over the output shaft in the tailshaft housing. I went to the bench to get the bolts for the starter(the last thing to put in) and found it laying on the bench.
Thanks Again
Corey
You know, that part may actually be the total key to it all and it absolutely must be put exactly where it belongs.

I first put mine in a big blue can that I regularly empty into a large metal orange container that 2 trained men who wear orange coveralls and white hats and who drive a specially equipped orange truck come and empty every Friday. This specially equipped truck then delivers them to where they belong.

You can put yours in whatever recepticle that will get it to the men, or women, who do this very special job in your area so that they can get yours where it belongs too.



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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-13-2010, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Darrin thank you so much for the very fast and entertaining reply. That is great news as my fuse is getting shorter by the minute with this project.
Thanks again and again
Corey
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 08:24 AM
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Aka Trash, Seals Tailshaft For Storage/shipping

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-14-2010, 02:29 PM
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That is what I do with them I put them into the tail housing after everything is assembled to keep dirt out of the transmission during transit. Then people can knock them in or pull them out when installing it, same as the filler pipe plug.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Ok the trans is back in the car and it has forward gears now but I don't think it is quite right. Let me start be saying I have never driven a car with a high stall before so this maybe ok but it does not seem so. I installed a 3200 stall in the car and the shift recal kit from RobertP.. When I let off the throttle the RPMs instantly drop to idle instead of coming down with speed like normal. Does anyone have any ideas. When I ordered my stall conv. they asked me what gear ratio in the diff. I told them 3.73 even they are not installed yet. How much will this effect the stall speed if any.
Thank you guys in advance again.
Corey
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-27-2010, 07:52 AM
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You will have less engine brake effect yes, but you should still have engine brake.
If it truely goes all the way to idel in 1, then reverse won't work, if in 2, then OD won't work, not possible in 3.

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