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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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J-Mod run-down

Hello all

I have a 99 Mustang GT and have been planning on doing the J-Mod for a while now. I want to make sure I have the steps correct in what I need to do.

Parts needed:

XW7Z-7D100-AA Gaskets
1L3Z-7C155-AA
~8 quarts trans fluid - MERCON V
trans filter

1. Take pan off/drain fluid.
2. Take off the filter.
3. Pry off the black plastic piece on the valve body.
4. Remove the 8mm bolt holding the other metal bracket.
5. Take out all of the 8mm bolts.
6. Remove the black gasket on top. Then remove the eight 10mm bolts holding on the circle plates and clean them.
7. Remove the last 10mm bolt holding the separator plate. Then clean the plate off.
8. Drill holes #2, 4, 5, 9, and 11 to .100- .110 (7/64 drill bit).
9. Drill hole #10 to .093 (3/32 drill bit). <---Worth it?
10. Put new gasket onto the valve body.
11. Reinstall separator on top of the new gasket.
12. Place the other new gasket on top of the separator plate.
13. Reinstall the two circular plates and toque the 10mm bolts down to 90 inch lbs.
14. Remove the ring holding the 1-2 shift accumulator spring (larger yellow spring). Remove the spring and replace the plate and snap ring.
15. If the 2-3 shift accumulator spring didnt already fall out, remove it. Pop off the plate and remove the spring.
16. Put valve body back up, make all connections, put in filter, bolt up pan, fill with fluid, enjoy.

Does this sound right at all? Sorry for the novel of a first post lol.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 06:57 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong... but I was under the impressions the 99+ valve bodies were already manufactured to J-spec.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 07:00 PM
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There are a few holes that are already at jmod specs and have some of the upgraded parts, but they are far from true j-spec.

-Matt
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Any idea what holes they would be? I guess I'll just wait and see when it gets done.

The only thing I never really understood is why the holes are numbered from 1-11 on the pics when half are never drilled out? It doesn't affect anything having them numbered, but it's just one of those things that bothered me lol.


Thanks for the replies!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 07:34 PM
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They were only numbered for reference, they could have been lettered just as easy.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2010, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I just figured it would've been easier to just number the ones that are going to be drilled. But no complaints here. I'm hoping it turns out as easy as most people say it turns out to be. Since it's my daily driver I can't afford to mess up which is why I was making sure I have the steps right.

There are two write-ups I read about doing the mod and one says if the 2-3 accumulator fell out, to put it back up. The other one says if it didn't already fall out, to take it out. I suppose it's by choice?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone? Also on the lower separator plate gaskets, all of the write-ups say to use: 1W7Z-7D100-AB which is for 01-05 4R70W's. But from what I found online, XW7Z-7D100-AA is the correct one for 96-00. Do I go with the one for 01-05 since some of the holes would be drilled out a little more, or stick with the 96-00 gasket?

Otherwise, I think this may be done next week, finally!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white99gt View Post
Anyone? Also on the lower separator plate gaskets, all of the write-ups say to use: 1W7Z-7D100-AB which is for 01-05 4R70W's. But from what I found online, XW7Z-7D100-AA is the correct one for 96-00. Do I go with the one for 01-05 since some of the holes would be drilled out a little more, or stick with the 96-00 gasket?

Otherwise, I think this may be done next week, finally!
Yes, the specs you mentioned were stated by Jerry to be ideal for 98- 4R70W transmissions so you are fine. As for hole #10, when you put your car in reverse, does it irritate you having to wait that pause before it engages? That's what enlarging hole #10 does for you, reduce the time length of that pause.

If the yellow spring on the 1-2 is the lower spring (1st to come out before the piston), yes you can leave it out.

I don't know about the gaskets. Look at them side by side and compare?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Well I don't have the gaskets yet and wanted to know before placing the order at the dealership. I do remember reading that some gaskets need a 'slit' made to match up with everything, but I may be wrong.

Other than the gaskets and just removing the 1-2/2-3 springs(and not replacing pistons, etc) confusion. I think I'll be good.

Thanks for the help!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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OK, so I did the mod the other day and it's great!

But I have one question, when taking out the 1-2 shift accumulator snap ring, I totally forgot about the c-clamp and when the ring came out, the whole accumulator and both springs flew out.

Since they came out the way they did, I wasn't sure how it went back up and the color of the springs were faded. When putting it back in, I put the longer of the two springs in the accumulator(deeper end) and put that straight up followed by the 'cap' and ring. So in-turn I took out the shorter(bottom?) spring.

Is that correct? I know it says to take out the yellow spring but the color of the springs were identical after 101k miles on the trans.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2010, 09:13 PM
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I guess it will sort of have to be ok, and since you said it worked well, I guess you're ok, huh? I just remember I replaced the top spring with a new one from Ford that was blue. I believe I put the bottom spring back in (cause my GF said it better not shift like a race car) and it was purple.

I did this quite a while ago so I may be wrong. There are a lot of people here that do these j-mod's all the time - they'll let you know better, but that's the best I recall.
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