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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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jmod seperator plate spec question

i would like to firm up my shifts as much as possible without making it so it will break something in my drivetrain or feel like its snapping my neck right now everything in the car is stock 96 4.6, but i will be doing the pi head cam and intake swap soon have all parts. i have a 96 seperator plate

right now according to this http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...ission/d96.jpg and what ive read in jerry's article i think im going to drill it like this

hole #1 no change
hole #2 0.100"
hole #3 0.180"
hole #4 0.100"
hole #5 0.081"
hole #6 0.125"
hole #7 0.125"
hole #8 no change
hole #9 0.089"
hole #10 0.076"
hole #11 0.089"
slot#1 0.100" with razor

and how do you make that slot with a razor, is it supposed to connect to the hole next to it or be seperate is it really a slot or a hole where that slot is

i have the new accumulators, blue top spring and purple bottom spring for the 1-2 accumulator and i want to use both of those springs none on the 2-3 accumulator

would this slam the gears? should i go with a milder setting, #4 0.081", #9 0.081, #11 0.081", slot#1 no change?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 09:04 PM
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No need to bump so soon, it's only been 5 1/2 hours.

I'm no expert, but I would recommend starting with the 300 hp setting and leaving the springs of the 2-3 and the lower spring out of the 1-2 accumulator.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-17-2010, 01:25 AM
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How many miles on the 96 Tranny ____? - Original 96 hard parts__?

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-17-2010, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
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im rebuilding it have all new seals gaskets bushings frictions etc..

all original 96 hard parts i believe i dont see any part numbers on the parts it looks like it was rebuilt not too long ago though it came in a car i bought two years ago and back then the guy said it was rebuilt two years before that

its been in my garage for a little over a year
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-17-2010, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by msp252 View Post
im rebuilding it have all new seals gaskets bushings frictions etc.. all original 96 hard parts i believe i dont see any part numbers on the parts it looks like it was rebuilt not too long ago though it came in a car i bought two years ago and back then the guy said it was rebuilt two years before that its been in my garage for a little over a year
Great... you might be ahead of the game already if it's been gone thru but there are defiinitely some more hard parts you;ll want to scrutinize to verify "where you're at" in your 96 Tranny & Main VB - Think about a nice TC, a Cooler & a new Starter, maybe some O'2 sensors while you have the piping out, if original, ETC>>> - With the help of the great guys here I rebuilt my 96 @ :

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=51637

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-17-2010, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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yea, i took alot of pictures and have printed out dozens of other peoples teardowns and rebuilds from this site and more. i think the only thing i might have trouble with are which way the bearings go back in i've read on another site some of them have wavy surfaces and those are supposed to be seated and they have pictures so im hoping that's enough

i'm probably going to buy a great book for it i saw at the store where i got my stuff also might be wanting to get that 98+ reverse drum with mechanical diode.

definatley planning for the cooler and trying to decide on which tc.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-17-2010, 10:28 PM
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I found the year specific MK8 Ford Manual for entire car on Ebay for like $50 so you can darn sure find a REAL TBird Manual there - Guys talk up the ATSG Manual & I bought one too being they are so cheap but it's VERY thin on detail & I would not reccommend the ATSG - You get what you pay for - D/Dog the man on your TC & certainly all our Board Vendors can help - In the end each of the Bearings install direction is common sense but I screwed up & flopped one & caught it when doing the Thrust Bearing measurements.

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Last edited by BUCK; 10-17-2010 at 10:34 PM.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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In my automotive technology program at my college they have this computer software called shopkey 5, and shopkey 5 transmission that has great information. It's basically like the ford manual you're talking about in an electronic version with detailed pictures telling you everything including taking it out of the car down to checking specs and measurements for everthing. Plus there's 4 seasoned mechanics there who've all worked one one at some oint in time. I've also already talked to D/Dog and he recomended a 3200-3500 stall converter, hopefully everything turns out ok.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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slot#1 0.100" with razor

anyone have a picture after this has been done?
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 05:51 PM
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When I do this I just take a small strand off with a razorblade

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 06:22 PM
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would i have to worry about anything if i'm about to get the j-mod done to my stock "original" 97 thunderbird tranny with 118k?
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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When I do this I just take a small strand off with a razorblade
why did my valvebody only have one gasket under the seperator plate, the gasket without the 3 big holes, but my rebuild kit came with two? is one an extra or something?

so would opening up hole #4 to .100, and #9 and #11 to .089" make may shifts to firm for a stock engine if i have both springs in on the 1-2 accumulator?
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msp252 View Post
why did my valvebody only have one gasket under the seperator plate, the gasket without the 3 big holes, but my rebuild kit came with two? is one an extra or something??
Probably the Gasket between Main VB & Tranny Case.


Quote:
Originally Posted by msp252 View Post
I've also already talked to D/Dog and he recomended a 3200-3500 stall converter,

so would opening up hole #4 to .100, and #9 and #11 to .089" make may shifts to firm for a stock engine if i have both springs in on the 1-2 accumulator?
Just make sure you get answer to this from someone running similar TC Stall.

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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can anyone with a similar set-up please comment
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 04:42 PM
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As for the springs, what you have chosen is exactly the setup I put in mine and it works fine. I used the light blue on the top of the 1-2 piston (goes in bore first), and the purple on the bottom (goes in last after the piston). No springs are used at all on the 2-3 piston.

FWIW, here is a list of the springs in order of stiffness and the stock applications:
F7AZ-7F284-CA Dark Blue (94) (Grand Marquis, Crown Vic)
F7AZ-7F284-AA White (95-97) (Grand Marquis, Crown Vic, Tbird/Cougar, Mustang)
F75Z-7F284-AA Light Blue (98-00) (Mustang, 4v MarkVIII)
1W7Z-7F284-AA Light Green (01-05) (Trucks, SUV's, Vans)
F75Z-7F284-BA Brown (Ford trucks & vans, very stiff)


As for the holes in the plate, make sure they are drilled smooth/cleanly with NO burrs. Here is the hole sizes for up to 300hp which should be fine for you (I noticed you chose the higher hp settings and put in some notes):
Hole #1: .160" / drill size #20 ALL APPLICATIONS (you have no change - is yours already that big?)
Hole #2: .081" / drill size #46 (you have .100" which will just be firmer 1-2 shift - ask Darrin or Alan)
Hole #3: .180" / drill size #15 (you have correct)
Hole #4: .081" / drill size #46 (same as #2, but 2-3 shift)
Hole #5: .081" / drill size #46 (you have correct)
Hole #6: .125" / drill size 1/8" (you have correct)
Hole #7: .125" / drill size 1/8" (you have correct)
Hole #8: No Change (you have correct)
Hole #9: .081" / drill size #46 (3-4, 4-3 shifts you have .089 which is ok)
Hole #10: .076" / drill size #48 (you have correct - this is just faster reverse engagement)
Hole #11: .081" / drill size #46 (you have .089 same as #9 which is ok)
Slot opening: I didn't change this, do what RobertP said.
According to Jerry, if you put in a mechanical diode, you can open up #6 to a slot as well - use the slot in the gasket as a template.

There are other Sonnax parts that can be changed, ask Darrin - he knows. I am no expert, but he pretty much is

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 10:53 AM
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http://www.sonnax.com/index.php

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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NetKeym View Post
F75Z-7F284-BA Brown (Ford trucks & vans, very stiff)

This on top of the 1-2 and no bottom is a lot of fun!

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NetKeym View Post
I used the light blue on the top of the 1-2 piston (goes in bore first), and the purple on the bottom (goes in last after the piston). No springs are used at all on the 2-3 piston.
What spring is purple? About to do the JMOD to the 99 Stang and am gathering parts info again. I am going to go with the brown spring on top, I think. Is the brown spring the one that I read about in Jerry's thesis years ago? If so, that's the one I have in my Thunderbird currently and I think I will use it on the Mustang too. I am considering using a lower 1-2 spring to take a little bit of harshness of it for my wife. Let me know what you guys think. If this is a good idea, which lower spring to use? Stock 99 GT? Thanks

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2011, 06:52 PM
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What spring is purple? About to do the JMOD to the 99 Stang and am gathering parts info again. I am going to go with the brown spring on top, I think. Is the brown spring the one that I read about in Jerry's thesis years ago? If so, that's the one I have in my Thunderbird currently and I think I will use it on the Mustang too. I am considering using a lower 1-2 spring to take a little bit of harshness of it for my wife. Let me know what you guys think. If this is a good idea, which lower spring to use? Stock 99 GT? Thanks
Mine had the purple spring on the bottom stock. I just put it back in because of my woman, too! If it was up to me, it wouldn't have any spring under it. I don't use any springs on the 2-3 accumulator. If you don't have the bottom purple spring, I've seen people use the 2-3 spring on the bottom of the 1-2 to "soften" up the 1-2 shift. The brown spring is pretty harsh, I think. Ask dirtydog or RobertP, they've done a bunch of these...

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