Tips on dropping the 4R70W? - TCCoA Forums
 
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Tips on dropping the 4R70W?

Gonna be dropping the 4R70W outta my pops '94 LX here soon. I have the basic idea on dropping it. Exhaust, gas tank, then driveshaft and trany to engine bolts in a nutshell. Just curious if anyone has any quicker tips on dropping these tranies that might make life easier?

- Chris



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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 08:06 PM
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Get yourself a 10mm gear wrench, a 10mm swivel socket, and a 4" extension. Those tools will make removing the starter a hell of a lot easier. Also, leave the bottom starter bolt until last because it will hold the starter in, and make it easier to get the 2 upper ones out by hand, then you can remove the one with easy access last.

For the tank, don't drop it completely, just lower it enough to slide the driveshaft out towards the driver's side, then bolt it back up in place so it isn't hanging by the filler tube.

Oh, also since you're a chevy guy, remember that it has 4 torque converter nuts, not 3.

Other than that, it's just the same as swapping out any other RWD trans.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Whoops. Meant to say this would be the third time dropping it. Haha

And yea I do remember the starter being a complete PITA!

And, thanks for the DS tip. Didn't know it could be slid over like that.

- Chris



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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 08:39 PM
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When I dropped mine to swap in a different torque converter, I dropped the exhaust, but I didn't drop the fuel tank. I've pulled it twice - the first time I just loosened the tank to let it fall far enough to slide the driveshaft out of the way, the second time I tried what someone else here did, and just loosened the pumpkin nuts/bolts.

IIRC, I had to pull the DS loops both times. Drain the torque converter first to lighten your job (there is a plug unlike a Chevy). Make sure to pull the bolt from the fill tube and pay attention to the easiest way to pull that tube (I think I did it when the tranny was 1/2 way out). I learned the hard way about the tube and tried to put it in after everything else was installed and what a pita (I'm not sure I ever put that bolt back in come to think about it!) lol

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 09:00 PM
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Yep lol. I just separated the tranny and motors in two mn12s within three days (one of those being my car) lol. And the starter is the bi+[# about the whole job!

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Rick, do you have more information on the loosening the pumpkin bolts method?

- Chris



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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 12:26 PM
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you can also, take the clips out of the yoke on the driveshaft, hammer and punch will be needed to pop the caps out. this will eliminate having to drop the drive shaft, fuel tank, or lowering the pumpkin. makes it alot easier.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 12:42 PM
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On the starter I just use long extensions (swivel type) and go in from in front of the AC compressor. I've never had that much of a problem dropping the starter.

It is SO much better to use a tool to separate U joints than using a hammer!!!


AutoZone had a ball joint press as a "Loan-a-Tool program that has the big C clamp...

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 01:03 PM
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The starter is the reason for a hole in my garage wall. Damn that thing.

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 01:19 PM
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Ok I'll do this one more time, because I cannot find the last time I did it

Step #1 disconnect battery, remove dipstick and remove 15mm nut(4.6L only) on driver side exhaust by using a long extension reaching down between the valve cover and master cylinder, then lift vehicle and remove 13mm nut retaining transmission shift cable to transmission. Then using a flat head screwdriver simply pop the cable off of the ball at the lever. It is important this be done before removing mounts or cable damage can occur.

Step #2 remove rubber exhaust hangers, support exhaust, disconnect all o2 sensors, remove remaining 3 exhaust stud nuts, remove 2 5/8 bolts holding mount bracket to transmission case and remove wiring harness from crossmember. With help of a buddy remove the 2 15mm crossmember bolts and remove exhaust.

Step #3 remove 4 12pt 12mm driveshaft bolts, remove 4 21mm nuts from differential mounts, the top is usually 15mm some however are 18. Let differential swing on axles. Slide driveshaft back out of transmission above differential. It may need to be turned ever so slightly to find the best location but it will come out of the transmission.

Step #4 remove 4 torque converter nuts using a 14mm wrench or 9/16. I find the tighter 14 is less likely to strip them out. Using a air ratchet, 3 inch 3/8 drive extension, 3/8 ball swivel and 3/8 drive mid depth 10mm swivel socket you can remove all 3 starter bolts with ease. This setup also works to remove the dipstick tube while you are there.

Step #5 remove cooler lines, make sure to hold the fittings if they try to spin, disconnect wiring harness, install transmission jack, using long extension and 13mm swivel socket remove all bellhousing bolts and drop transmission.

Reverse order for assembly.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 02:40 PM
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DD what do you use to separate the engine and trans?

I love my V8, but I'd love it more if all 8 cylinders worked. (they do now)

My T-bird is like George Jetson's wife, you try to give her a little money, she takes the whole wallet.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 03:16 PM
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Usually I just force it up and down side to side until it pops loose. I have had to use a prybar in the past.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 07:07 PM
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Do you have to let the motor drop down in the back to get to those top two on the DOHC's? Looks like the one on the passenger side in particular is hard to get to.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-05-2011, 07:27 PM
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It will tip a little in all applications.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2011, 09:51 PM
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With the wiper cowl off the car, the top two are easy to get to with a wrench from the top. (I had it out already)

Two long extensions with a ujoint between them help from the bottom with those two.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2011, 10:17 PM
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Sounds like too much work to me, A long extension does the job just fine. Visibilty is a problem. I learned a long time ago how to remove bolts by feel not sight.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 12:15 AM
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I pull the wiper cowl too, open space is much easier on the knuckles. Plus it gives you a chance to clean any crap out that's gathered in there.

-Matt
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 06:58 PM
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Good info guys, thanks. I've had my cowl off a couple times before. I to have also removed alot of bolts by feel. Just a little tricky when its time to put them back in. I've read on another post where DD talked about dropping the diff to remove the driveshaft so I'll go that route. My stock Mark shaft should work with an 00-03 cv tranny should'nt it? I know I will have to move my vss over.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 08:33 PM
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oss, im sorry.
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