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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Few JMod questions before I start

So all the parts and tools for the JMod are ordered, they should be here Friday, I'll install them next week. I will for sure do the 1-2 and 2-3 stuff. I'll do the mild settings for the JMod... I don't plan on doing the OD servo (although I'd like to, I don't have the nerves to do it LOL). And I'm going to skip the reverse servo. I've also ordered the B&M transmission drain plug kit which I'll install to make future drains much easier.

1. One thing is I heard that there is a check ball in the valve body that prevents the torque converter from draining completely until the valve body is removed. Is that true? I was planning on draining the fluid via the rad line, then drain the torque converter (for like 30 mins) and then putting the plug back in and then dropping the pan. So I only have a mess in one spot at a time LOL.

2. Another question. Do you need to adjust the MLPS after doing the JMod? Or do you not touch that part of things?

3. Is there a 2-3 upper spring? It appears not.

4. I know, I know, everyone says to remove the 2-3 spring, but has anyone here actually installed it? I'm 99% sure I'll leave it out anyway. The "Mild" setting says to put the spring in, and anything above that it says to leave it out. I know I want the 2-3 to be more firm than soft.

5. For hooking into the rad tranny line for draining the fluid, does anyone have a picture of what the 5/16" fitting looks like that I need to buy?

Wish me luck. I've printed off the instructions (A-Train) and I'll read them a few more times before next week LOL Hopefully I won't have too many more questions :-)

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-24-2011, 11:45 PM
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I left the 2-3 spring out and it shifts firm, not hard - sorta like a new sport car feel. I've never heard of the ball/drain thing - I thought just drain the TC and removing pan removes pretty much all the fluid except what's in lines and cooler. Unless you disturb something you don't have to disturb, the MLPS should be just fine and not require any adjustment. I also did the mild settings when I drilled my plate, and I put both springs in the 1-2 servo (although I did change the upper spring the the light-blue spring).

I kinda wish I had left out of the 1-2 lower spring when I did my 'Bird. When I do the J-Mod to my Mark VIII, I am going for the 450hp settings and leave out the 1-2 spring for even 'snappier' shifts.

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 07:16 AM
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watch this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yl1lGdQ9jwk
It explains what you need to know. For a stock converter be conservative as it can ge too hard fast. I had to order drill bit that I am expecting tomorrow.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g View Post
...For a stock converter be conservative as it can ge too hard fast...
What do you mean by be conservative? Do you mean drive nice when it's done or stick to the mild smaller hole sizes when I drill the plate?

I've already got the proper drill bits for the mild settings.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 12:53 PM
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Did you watch the video?

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I didn't hear you say "conservative" once, I'm still confused on what you mean.

My tranny has 80K miles and the fluid & filter was changed at 30K & 60K. Do you think I will likely need to replace the pressure control solenoid and pressure regulator valve? Or is that for higher mileage units? If I'm feeling brave I'll pull them out and inspect them for wear.

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- How To Bleed Teves ABS Brakes
- How To Remove Front Plate Bracket

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny View Post
Yeah, I didn't hear you say "conservative" once, I'm still confused on what you mean.

My tranny has 80K miles and the fluid & filter was changed at 30K & 60K. Do you think I will likely need to replace the pressure control solenoid and that other valve thingy? Or is that for higher mileage units? If I'm feeling brave I'll pull them out and inspect them for wear.
You said you're sticking to the 'mild' settings. I'm sure that's what is meant by conservative.

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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Alan, if I decide to replace the pressure regulator valve, which one do you recommend?

http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/...ion/parts/1456
or
http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/...ion/parts/1458

Do you sell both? How much $$ are we talking for one of these?

And would a Ford EPC be good enough if mine shows wear? What's the difference between the OEM one and the one in the video? I like using OEM stuff...

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 04:09 PM
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that's a nice video, wish i would have know about that pressure reg valve in the valve body when i had mine apart, would have replaced it. that vid though should definitely be in the articles.

oh, and my 2c if your using your car as a daily driver like i am, then get yourself a new bluish 1-2 spring and leave it in their. its a bit harsh for daily use in my opinion. its not completely unbearable, and sort of fun :P but i worry about my Ujoints and that stock 2piece drive-shaft I'm still using... its totally up to you i suppose, you'll find out but if you don't like it, you'll find yourself dumping 5 quarts of expensive Merc5 to pop it back in later, really no big deal.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 04:14 PM
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Because the stall on the stock converter is so low, sudden large changes in RPM across the converter will cause the converter to stall and you will get a very harsh shift if the shift completes extremely fast.

As far as settings... I did the mild settings as well (left all springs in except for the 2-3) and the shifts feel consistent during acceleration. IE the 1-2 and 2-3 feel about the same.

On the Cougar I did the most mild settings possible; I didn't drill the hole for the 1-2 shift and left springs in, as well as leaving the 2-3 spring in. It feels pretty much stock, although the engagement from park and into/out of OD is faster.

-Brandon
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 04:34 PM
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and I'm not even using the stock one :P i got the flywheel from a dead Mk8 DOHC motor and used the smaller T/C. feels pretty harsh to me. if your in just the right RPM and throttle position, she'll shift pretty smooth, but of its too low, or too high, it hits hard and will knock your head back a bit, possibly chirping the tires.

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny View Post
Alan, if I decide to replace the pressure regulator valve, which one do you recommend?

http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/...ion/parts/1456
or
http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/...ion/parts/1458

Do you sell both? How much $$ are we talking for one of these?

And would a Ford EPC be good enough if mine shows wear? What's the difference between the OEM one and the one in the video? I like using OEM stuff...
The -12k kit has the high pressure spring that makes a mild pressure increase. I use them on anything performance related. The EPC I use is just an OEM epc, it could have been the high pressure one from 5.4 they are only available aftermarket now.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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So I bought the JMod stuff except the lower spring. I do have one question through pertaining to the gaskets.

One of the gaskets F7AZ-7C155-AA was not in the system. The number changed up to 1L3P-7C155-AB, which I bought. Do you think that will be a problem? If a Ford part number changes up, the part should be the same though, right?

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 12:41 PM
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yea it should; just make sure the new gaskets are the same as the old ones because there is different gaskets for different years.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny View Post
I do have one question through pertaining to the gaskets.One of the gaskets F7AZ-7C155-AA was not in the system. The number changed up to 1L3P-7C155-AB, which I bought. Do you think that will be a problem? If a Ford part number changes up, the part should be the same though, right?
Not necessarilly Swanny... see below:


""""""""Quote:Originally Posted by TonyD. I went to the ford dealer today to get seperator plate gaskets. the parts man told me the 7d100-a gaskets are obselete and no longer available. He gave me a 7d100-ab. will this work with modifications? and how much different is it? """""

I'm holding the 2 different gaskets in my hand - I'm told it won't work by local Parts Guru & I believe him:

7D100AB is for 2001 up THRU ??? 4r70w VB only - DEFINITELY not for 2000 & older 4r70w VB - Below is pic of
7D100AB showing one of the areas of difference where the small Pac Man Plate is deleted in 2001+ VB & Casting change deleted 2-3 Capacity Modulator Valve in corner of 2001+ VB... they added hole to Vent the void in 2001+ Casting - There are other changes around Main Regulator, ETC... as compared to PRE 2000 VB Gasket & probably more importantly the various PRE 2000 Seperator Plates & VB Castings & all the internal VB sub-assembly changes over the years.

2001 + Sep Plate Gasket pic @ http://forums.tccoa.com/vbpicgallery.php?do=big&p=3086

SO>>> 7D100EA is good for 2000 & at least as far back as 96 4r70w VB but you'll want to verify that it's good for 95 - I think you'll find that it is.

They do ask for VB casting number sometimes as there are parts overlaps between Tranny years - Seems like there was VB Casting change in 96 as well as Tranny casting - Good stuff on casting changes here:
http://www.p71interceptor.com/

You oughta change the Top Gasket & the VB to Tranny Gasket also & Torque all carefully - Teeny VB Filter & VB Screen + a 96+ Pan.

You have a Stock / Original 95 Tranny & VB right ??? - Frankly a 95/96 Tranny needs EVERYTHING upgraded so... ??? - VB & Tranny could badly use some Sonnax parts & Hard Parts if you insist on beating an old horse:

http://www.sonnax.com/index.php

Best Tranny Parts guy in S.C. is @ PT in North Charleston - 843-747-5348

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Doh. Anyone got a good scan or picture of an actual F7AZ-7C155-AA gasket? I could compare it to mine. The gasket shown in A-Train's article may or may not be that exact gasket.

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- Ford 4.6L Vacuum Hose Replacement How-To
- T-Bird DIY Cheap Headlight Restoration
- Multifunction Switch Replacement
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 11:24 AM
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The Sep Plate GASKET shown at bottom of Page 14 in Jerry's article is a 96 to at least 98 Sep Plate GASKET for SURE if that helps - At least a 98 Seperator Plate is pictured just above the picture of 96 to at least 98 Sep Plate Gasket laying over the at least 98 Sep Plate.

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...n/page14.shtml

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 01:54 PM
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Swanny,
You need not be scared of the OD servo and the reverse servo. You only need some snap ring pliers to do the job. It makes for a good maintenance upgrade while you are in there.
None of the Jmod stuff is hard, just take your time and reread the directions a few times.

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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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I am scared of doing the OD servo I'd like to do it but I don't want to screw it up. I have a good set of snap ring pliers.

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--> My most recent pics <--
I'm documenting some of my MN12 stuff @ MN12Tech
- Door Hinge/Bushing Replacement
- Ford 4.6L Vacuum Hose Replacement How-To
- T-Bird DIY Cheap Headlight Restoration
- Multifunction Switch Replacement
- How To Bleed Teves ABS Brakes
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 04:41 PM
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OD Servo IS worth doing IMO BUT it IS Tricky & a bit of a PITA - & Unless you are the Terminator it DEFINITELY takes more than just a set of Snap Ring Pliers to swap out the OD Servo - Reverse Servo is EASY but honestly probably NOT worth doing.

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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Maybe I ought to buy one of these - http://atoztool.com/970.html

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- Ford 4.6L Vacuum Hose Replacement How-To
- T-Bird DIY Cheap Headlight Restoration
- Multifunction Switch Replacement
- How To Bleed Teves ABS Brakes
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 05:02 PM
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In Car a Piston Jack & PVC adapter get's it done but it's TRICKY... I've done it but one could Jack up entire Car if Servo Pin bottoms so you could destroy stuff... including possibly you...

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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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You're not making it any better LOL. Sounds like dropping $40 for the tool is the "proper" way

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- Ford 4.6L Vacuum Hose Replacement How-To
- T-Bird DIY Cheap Headlight Restoration
- Multifunction Switch Replacement
- How To Bleed Teves ABS Brakes
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 05:41 PM
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I've got about 40 years experience not killing myself under cars, mind you I've lost at least one friend who knew better & made a fatal mistake - I'm not all that keen on how the Stongback Tool is retained to the teeny Threads in Tranny - SO IMO if you have ample experience, & have a Piston Jack & get up in the little square window in Casting with something to retain OD Band in place when you remove OD Pin then go for it - If you don't have a warm fuzzy then leave it alone - JMOD will help existing smaller OD Servo function too.

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 07:58 PM
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I use a bar of steel about 1 inch wide, 1/4 thick and has one hole in the end. Put a valvebody bolt completely in using the hole in the end and put a socket on the piston then lever it down.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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I think the new gasket will work... some of the holes are obviously bigger but I think that's OK.

JMod gasket picture:


My gaskets picture:

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--> My most recent pics <--
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- Door Hinge/Bushing Replacement
- Ford 4.6L Vacuum Hose Replacement How-To
- T-Bird DIY Cheap Headlight Restoration
- Multifunction Switch Replacement
- How To Bleed Teves ABS Brakes
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 08:11 AM
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I say you have a 7D100EA good for a 2000 & at least as far back as 96 4r70w VB - Most obvious clue is near the Upper Left hand corner where you lack a second big hole where the 2001 Gasket Vented the Void left in the 2001 Main VB when they deleted the 3-4 Capacity Modulator in 2001 Casting.

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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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All I know is the part # on it was 1L3P-7C155-AB (on the package).

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--> My most recent pics <--
I'm documenting some of my MN12 stuff @ MN12Tech
- Door Hinge/Bushing Replacement
- Ford 4.6L Vacuum Hose Replacement How-To
- T-Bird DIY Cheap Headlight Restoration
- Multifunction Switch Replacement
- How To Bleed Teves ABS Brakes
- How To Remove Front Plate Bracket
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 12:53 PM
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I go by the slot out of the hole on the right, the late gasket does not have it.
Alan

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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-05-2011, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtyd0g View Post
I go by the slot out of the hole on the right, the late gasket does not have it.
Alan
Do you mean the slot that goes down and to the left near the right side? Mine has that, it's just hard to see.

Will this gasket work? I did track down one of the original jmod part number gaskets, so I can buy it if necessary.

1996 Ford Thunderbird LX - 80K miles, 4.6L Auto, 2nd owner
Mostly stock except for tint, stereo, SC ground effects, and wheels/tires
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