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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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rear cooling mod question

just curious the write up says to use a 1/20th drill bit to put the whole through the bushing. what are people actually using as I can't seem to locate that size of a bit? better to go a little big or a little small?

Thanks,
David
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 08:58 AM
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The article says to use a .050 drill bit for the bushing hole. Good hardware stores carry "wire size" drill bits. You won't find them at lowes and Home Depot usually. I'd go smaller rather than bigger as you wouldn't want to adversely affect line pressure. a 3/64 bit is a little smaller and probably easier to get.
Check out this drill conversion chart and compare.
Hope this helps with your question.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/drillsizeconvert.html

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 09:13 AM
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The bit I use is .046. I have bought .050 bits but they are $5-6 each and for that I can get 10 of the .046 bits.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 10:53 AM
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& any Bit drills a few thousands over-size - Get a few as they tend to dig into softer metal like the Bushing & snap unless you have a dulled Bit.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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Anybody have correct part numbers for the bushing and seal? dumb lady at the parts counter can't get it right..............
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 07:45 AM
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You bumped two of your posts within 3 hrs. after you originally posted them. You need to let people wake up first!

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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sorry but when i hit new posts they weren't showing up any more, just wanna resolve this on my way home from work at 11
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 09:09 AM
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Well I buy the bushings and seals from a dedicated transmission parts house. The rest of the tranny parts I buy I get from DirtyDog or Ford.

I wouldn't think that a regular parts place would have the bushing. Autozone, O Reillys and the like may have the rear seal but in the past everything I bought there turned out to be wrong. So I found another source...

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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i was going through a stealership, called them today and what do you for some strange reason they think they have my part on the shelf and they don't normally carry..........i think the gal just got the wrong thing off the shelf. if somebody has ford #'s i'd still take them if before 11 so i can double check but i am taking the old pieces with me.

Thanks!
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 09:44 AM
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Well I'd think the rear seal wouldn't be an issue. The bushing on the other hand I don't think that would be a common shelf item.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUCK View Post
& any Bit drills a few thousands over-size - Get a few as they tend to dig into softer metal like the Bushing & snap unless you have a dulled Bit.
Drill slower, lol. Soft metals like brass, bronze, copper and lead all have that problem. And your holes end up oversize.

The metal 'flash melts', encases the bit, then cools, snapping the bit off. It happens faster than you can react; cutting fluid can help keep it cool, if the piece is thin.

Even if it doesn't melt enough to stop the bit, it can melt slightly, and make a hole a few thousandths bigger than you want. Not good if you want a nice, smooth hole.

Using a drill press +vice helps also, because the tendency is that the flutes on the bit will set the feed rate in soft metals if you're not careful. With a hand drill, the flutes will bury the bit if you let it. The drill press helps a lot.

IMHO, cutting fluid doesn't help much over ~1/2" thick; you just have to take your time.

I have some experience; I have to make test fixtures at times. Most of ours incorporate lead and/or copper. (And tungsten, which is a whole other problem, lol.)

I freeze 4"x6" lead bricks in ice before I drill small holes in them, lol.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collimator

Thankfully, I don't have to do that often. I use lead bricks at work with .020" and .015"; they're 4" thick. Which stops 511keV photons pretty effectively, except where the hole is...

I have a lot better success than the guy that tried to do a .015" hole in 2" tungsten... drills aren't very effective; but wire edm works, lol.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 01:16 PM
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The tailshaft housing/yoke seal part number is 7W7Z-7052-A

The bushing is unobtainable through the dealer

-Matt
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 01:38 PM
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I've read several references to this rear cooling mod but I can't seem to find the writeup referencing this modification.
Would one of you folks kindly point me to this document and what benefits I may receive from such a mod? I see comments about a rear cooling mod for the 4.6L engine heads but nothing for 4r70w transmission.

Thanks,
-g

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
I've read several references to this rear cooling mod but I can't seem to find the writeup referencing this modification.
Would one of you folks kindly point me to this document and what benefits I may receive from such a mod? I see comments about a rear cooling mod for the 4.6L engine heads but nothing for 4r70w transmission.

Thanks,
-g
Its not exactly a "cooling" mod ... its a Forced Lubrication to the transmission Tailshaft / driveshaft yoke.

Link here ..

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...n/page12.shtml
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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any suggestions on which loctite product to use on the rear seal?

David
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coggonobrien View Post
any suggestions on which loctite product to use on the rear seal?
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 02:15 AM
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I pack the spring full of transgel or petroleum jelly, put a coat of hylamar on the outside of the seal and use paste thread sealer on the fittings.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S4gunn View Post
I've read several references to this rear cooling mod but I can't seem to find the writeup referencing this modification.
Would one of you folks kindly point me to this document and what benefits I may receive from such a mod? I see comments about a rear cooling mod for the 4.6L engine heads but nothing for 4r70w transmission.

Thanks,
-g
One of our Supporting Advertisers sells a kit:

http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/t...t/prod_57.html

This is way easier than replacing the bushing myself, iirc.

I hear there's a discount for Club Membership, as well.

Red '96 Cougar XR-7 240k mi. '02 4R70W, PST DS : '03 PI engine, 04 maf, 24lb injectors, 2.5" exhaust, '02 4r70w + Jmod, DirtyD0g TC + cooler + 3/8" lines, 255 walbro fp. Alpine system.
Black '96 Cougar XR-7 (Lazarus) 210k mi PI Intake, '02 4R70W, Jmod, PST DS, GrogTune, Konis, Mark LCA+Poly, racecougar Custom Engine Chain, and JL and racecougar Bracing.
Black '97 Tbird Limited Edition, '02 4R70W, 255 walbro, PST DS, PBR Brakes&SS lines, Toicko Blues & Springs, GrogTune.


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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 02:37 PM
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Thanks for the explanation, Dan.
Having seen what the problem is (Tailshaft bearing lubrication), I found this DIY from a mustang forum.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-write-up.html

Only thing I'm missing is a pic of the completed modification w/ the lube line installed but it should be pretty straight forward.
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 04:42 PM
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If you need the parts I have them all in stock and will sell a DIY kit. You do have to be very careful doing this job it isn't exactly straight forward. Ending up with a bushing that is too tight for the yoke is common.
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