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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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99 GT trans issues?

It amazes me the amount of knowledge here on these trans so I must ask a few questions. When I'm cruising down the road I have a terrible vibration through out the car. If I let off of the throttle it goes away until I accel. again.

From what I've read on here I might say it's the same problem many have. I did the flush, filter and merc V change but it did return after a few hundred miles but not as bad. I've heard that the J-mod may help and I'd like to do it anyway but not sure what to do on the 99 transmissions since parts were being corrected by Ford this yr.

My question is would I benefit from doing a trans filter/fluid change again( I thought there might still be old fluid in there) to get rid of the vibration/shudder or is it something else? What do I need to drill/change on the 99 trans to do the J mod? The cars got 160k on it and I have no idea what the previous owner did as of maintenace but the fluid was pretty clean the first time a flushed it.

Sorry for the long post.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 10-12-2012 at 11:47 PM. Reason: Format for easier reading
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 09:15 PM
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Is this happening in all gears, or only 3rd and 4th?

The J-mod won't cure torque converter shudder, if this is what you are experiencing. If the fluid and filter are new and you still have vibration, either the TC itself has gone bad or there's another cause to the vibration (motor mounts, trans mounts, misfire etc).

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-21-2012, 09:44 PM
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I would also check the U-joints for not only slack, but also hard spots in the needle bearings. To check for hard spots, you will have to remove the driveshaft. I also agree with Brandon on checking all of your mounts. All 3 (L and R engine mounts and the transmission crossmember/mount) were busted in my 99GT and it had strange vibrations while cruising. Blew my mind that the whole trans mount on the 99-04 is the "crossmember."

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Is this happening in all gears, or only 3rd and 4th?

The J-mod won't cure torque converter shudder, if this is what you are experiencing. If the fluid and filter are new and you still have vibration, either the TC itself has gone bad or there's another cause to the vibration (motor mounts, trans mounts, misfire etc).
Yes its just 3rd and 4th. How do you tell if your mounts are shot, Ive got some movement on the drivers side but cant tell if its a normal amount or not when you rev it up.

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I would also check the U-joints for not only slack, but also hard spots in the needle bearings. To check for hard spots, you will have to remove the driveshaft. I also agree with Brandon on checking all of your mounts. All 3 (L and R engine mounts and the transmission crossmember/mount) were busted in my 99GT and it had strange vibrations while cruising. Blew my mind that the whole trans mount on the 99-04 is the "crossmember."

I checked the u-joints for slop but didnt think about hard spots. I may just relace them anyway since its a cheap repair and Im sure down the road Ill have to anyway.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:19 AM
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i usually just wedge a BF prybar in their and start prying, they shouldn't move around very much if at all. the motor mounts will move a bit more since the engine torque. if you have an excessive amount of movement, or if the mount is completely broken like the trans mounts do sometimes, you'll know right away.

just make sure you not prying on anything delicate, or easily broken

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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:53 AM
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Or, of course, you COULD just replace the motor mounts.

They're really not that expensive.

Plus, for a Mustang, you can go poly easily enough ... http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...d+Mustang+1999 and there are poly mounts for motor and transmission, complete set for under $204 shipped.

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 11:18 AM
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If it's only in 3rd and 4th, then it could still very well be TC shudder (the converter only locks in 3rd and 4th in the stock tune). You can try with fresh fluid again, but if the converter itself is bad or if your trans is running hotter than it should be, fresh fluid will only be a band-aid fix.

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Ive also noticed its got a "whistle" in 1st gear but once it hits second it goes away. Overall the trans shifts fine for a stock trans thats why I thought it maybe something simple. Is there a way to rule out the converter other than replacing it?
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 06:53 PM
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The whistle could be a vacuum leak that gets drowned out with road noise.

I'd verify no vacuum leaks first.

Whistling - someone who does transmissions (RobertP, DirtyD0g, et al) may chime in with how one can do that, but AFAIK, that's not a valid sound from a transmission.

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 06:55 PM
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Whine is the pattern on the gears - all 4R70Ws have that in 1st gear. Whistle is the valve body. I recommend talking to Darrin @ BC Automotive if you decide you need transmission work.

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-23-2012, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Does the valve body need replacement? With the whistle and shudder am I looking at have to replace the trans soon? What about the J-mod is there anything thats different than the write up Ive seen for the 99 and up? I did notice when I did my filter that it has the new accum. in the 1-2 so I assume the others are the newer ones as well.

On a side note I did check all my mounts and they look fine.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-10-2012, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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The trans was a little low on fluid(about 1/2 qrt) and it seems to help it about 90%. Apparently I have a small leak at the rear seal and it drips on the h-pipe and burns off which is why I never noticed it. Im assuming the other 10% is probably wear?

Any ideas on the other questions I asked in the above post?
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 06:09 AM
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The trans shouldn't lose any fluid. It won't consume fluid when it wears like an engine will. If it's losing fluid, it's leaking somewhere. Common places are the front pump seal, rear seal and pan gasket. If all those places are dry then check the lines to the radiator cooler, then lastly the cooler itself.

As far as your other questions, I don't know enough to give a solid answer. You should already have the newer accumulator pistons though - if you do the j-mod it will be a matter of enlarging a few holes in the separator plate and possibly removing accumulator springs (depending on your needs).

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 08:44 PM
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The 4R70W has inherent problems that will appear with age, reguardless of mileage (within reasoning) wether you agree or not is not of my concern, only to quash the idea that replacing a '94-97 trans with a newer version will be of benefit or worthyiness to the actual owner in question if the replacement unit is just as screwed as the original unit it is meant to replace, mechanical diode be dammened.

Kevin.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 10-12-2012 at 07:21 PM. Reason: Edited for content
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 09:39 PM
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These newer 4R70W transmissions are LIGHT YEARS ahead of the AOD; I hated the AOD and broke a few over the years, I LOVE the 4R70W!

They handle more abuse than ever before - more revs, more torque, and failure spots have been addressed throughout the years -

1994- New MLPS to address water getting in and ruining
1996, 1999, & 2001- Better valve bodies throughout the years
1996- New pan for slightly more, cooler, and not sucking air in the filter
1998- New high friction clutch material and mechanical diode
1999- Higher Pressure EPC solenoid
2004- New front pump
2006- Renamed 4R75W supposed to handle more torque and new pan
2007- Mechanical diode improved with more locking teeth

I haven't heard of the problem you mentioned before, but I'm no transmission expert either. I don't know if and when Ford put a better spiral ring because aftermarket has had them for years and I know of a few other tricks re-builders use to make for a stronger transmission.

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 09:48 PM
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Nobody "Breaks" an AOD, they only burn them up because of what they don't know.

Kevin.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 10-12-2012 at 07:23 PM. Reason: Edit for content
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 10:04 PM
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Nobody "Breaks" an AOD, they only burn them up because of what they don't know.


Kevin.
There's a couple of split ones at a local tranny shop that begs to disagree with you

RwP

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 10-12-2012 at 07:23 PM.
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 11:13 PM
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Net ole buddy, nobody "Breaks" an AOD, they only burn them up because of what they don't know.


Kevin.
Oh, I wish I had pics. The last one I tore up had pieces of metal in the pan that looked like a bunch of 'Chicklets'!


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There's a couple of split ones at a local tranny shop that begs to disagree with you
RwP
I never split an AOD, but I once broke a Turbo 350 tranny in half with my Chevelle!

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 12:13 AM
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You should have taken those pictures there, were those "Chicklets" in the pan clean metal or blued from heat colored? Clean metal would indicate a fatigue failure, possibly a internal shaft torrington bearing shedding itself into the gearset caused it? or did you lose the lube circut(radiator cooler/lines) and cause a failure of the pinion bearings of the gearset? both would be considered a internal contamination failure.

Now, if all those little chunks in the pan were black & blue from heat discoloration, I'd look for a lube circut flow problem/restriction that caused the heat to discolor those little chicks into chicklets, but what my money is riding on is that you never bothered to look past what you saw in the pan after draining. In which case you just don't know or cared to find out, you only know what you saw in the bottom of the pan.

But now that you've drilled a spacer plate, you consider yourself a drivetrain specialist.

Kevin.

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 10-12-2012 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Edit for content and format for easier reading.
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 12:20 AM
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Why so hostile? Yes I too have see AOD's split, it can happen.

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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 12:31 AM
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I'm not hostile or infuriated, it's you that argue with logic/mechanical science.

You guy's do understand that under acceleration/crankshaft rotation the helical cuts of the gearsets draw the ends towards each other, it's under manual downshifts where the loads try to seperate things right? maybe you guy's need a little more time by yourselves to figure things out.

Kevin.
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 05:36 AM
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You are most definitely hostile - you just don't see it. I've noticed you're this way in a lot of your posts. You can't have a discussion about something - you have to let us know how right you are and how dumb we are then talk down to us. I want nothing to do with it, and personally I couldn't care what kind of technical knowledge you might have to offer if you can't offer it correctly.

Then you wonder why we don't take you seriously. BTW stop using the apostrophe for plurals. English 101 - apostrophe for possession and contraction.

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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NetKeym View Post
They handle more abuse than ever before - more revs, more torque, and failure spots have been addressed throughout the years -

1994- New MLPS to address water getting in and ruining
1996, 1999, & 2001- Better valve bodies throughout the years
1996- New pan for slightly more, cooler, and not sucking air in the filter
1998- New high friction clutch material and mechanical diode
1999- Higher Pressure EPC solenoid
2004- New front pump
2006- Renamed 4R75W supposed to handle more torque and new pan
2007- Mechanical diode improved with more locking teeth
Good list!

To add to that list, if I may, from 2003 I believe they also got hardened gears.

-Brandon
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07 Redfire Fusion V6 SEL 178k, for the wife
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by NetKeym View Post
These newer 4R70W transmissions are LIGHT YEARS ahead of the AOD; I hated the AOD and broke a few over the years, I LOVE the 4R70W!

They handle more abuse than ever before - more revs, more torque, and failure spots have been addressed throughout the years -

1994- New MLPS to address water getting in and ruining
1996, 1999, & 2001- Better valve bodies throughout the years
1996- New pan for slightly more, cooler, and not sucking air in the filter
1998- New high friction clutch material and mechanical diode
1999- Higher Pressure EPC solenoid
2004- New front pump
2006- Renamed 4R75W supposed to handle more torque and new pan
2007- Mechanical diode improved with more locking teeth

I haven't heard of the problem you mentioned before, but I'm no transmission expert either. I don't know if and when Ford put a better spiral ring because aftermarket has had them for years and I know of a few other tricks re-builders use to make for a stronger transmission.
Good list!

To add to that list, if I may, from 2003 I believe they also got hardened gears.

The changes were so substantial in 2003 that the transmission was NO LONGER called the 4R70W but the 4R75W.

See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AO...smission#4R75W

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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
The changes were so substantial in 2003 that the transmission was NO LONGER called the 4R70W but the 4R75W.

See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AO...smission#4R75W
That article shows that the 4R70W was used right up through 2008. They had both transmissions available 2003-2008.....

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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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The trans shouldn't lose any fluid. It won't consume fluid when it wears like an engine will. If it's losing fluid, it's leaking somewhere. Common places are the front pump seal, rear seal and pan gasket. If all those places are dry then check the lines to the radiator cooler, then lastly the cooler itself.

Yes it had a leak at the cooler and the tail shaft seal is still leaking after replacement unless theres another one there I missed

As far as your other questions, I don't know enough to give a solid answer. You should already have the newer accumulator pistons though - if you do the j-mod it will be a matter of enlarging a few holes in the separator plate and possibly removing accumulator springs (depending on your needs).
Are the accumulator pistons "wearable" component?, The J=mod i want to do but Id like to fix the annoting vibration and whine first
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Trunk Monkey View Post
The changes were so substantial in 2003 that the transmission was NO LONGER called the 4R70W but the 4R75W.

See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AO...smission#4R75W

Quote:
Originally Posted by NetKeym View Post
That article shows that the 4R70W was used right up through 2008. They had both transmissions available 2003-2008.....
Yes, for the purpose of this discussion, as it relates to automatic V8 Mustangs, the 4R75W was used in 2003 and 2004 until Ford switched to the 5R55S in 2005.

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Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 07:16 PM
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Thread edited for content.

Those of you who were arguing for the sake of argument. Take your school yard bickering to the house. I don't want to see it here.

Keep the thread on topic and if you wish to discuss something do it in a civil manner with the respect that you would expect for yourself. Keep the condescension, and attitudes out of your posts.

- TCCoA Moderator

Mods? Yea, I got mods ...
Air silencer delete, warp drive, dilithium crystals, flux capacitor, Slingshot Rubber band power adder, Moonshine & Gas, Leaf Blower Supercharger, Hamster Wheel & Hamster, Energizer Bunny generating 1.21 gigawatts, Mr. FusionŽ Home Energy Reactor, hover conversion and a sextant celestial navigation system (The original GPS)
Best 1/4: 1,320 nanoseconds @ 670,616,629.2 miles per hour

"There isn't that much difference anymore between spacecraft, aircraft and modern automobiles..." - Keith Henry, NASA's Langley Research Center
See a list of my real mods and pictures of my car HERE. The true performance of my car was made possible by the Carolinas Crew Chief, RobertP at Rob's Tire & Auto

Last edited by Trunk Monkey; 10-12-2012 at 08:05 PM. Reason: Update
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 12:39 PM
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Thread edited for content.

Those of you who were arguing for the sake of argument. Take your school yard bickering to the house. I don't want to see it here.

Keep the thread on topic and if you wish to discuss something do it in a civil manner with the respect that you would expect for yourself. Keep the condescension, and attitudes out of your posts.

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My apologies to you and the forum...

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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Well ive changed the U joints had the tires re balanced and still have the vibration at cruisng speed. I also noticed my leak is coming from up front between the motor and trans but i pulled the TC checker plug in the bottom of housing and its pretty dry in there. Any ideas about either one?
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