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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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1995 Super Coupe Transmission Wont Shift

Last week the transmission in my super coupe began acting up. It shifts into 1 and 2 just fine but wont go to 3 or 4. I have no clue what may be wrong. I have found a 4R70W from a 98 mustang gt. Would this be a direct bolt on replacement? Or would it not work? Should I try to fix the transmission I already have in there? Thanks for any and all advise.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 10:24 AM
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You need to find a 4R70W from a donor 3.8; the 4.6 uses a different bolt pattern. Try to find one from 99+ if at all possible.

As to the problem... Check to be sure you're not low on fluid, but it could be a burned up direct clutch.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Fluid is fine. Went from shifting fine to not shifting into 3 or 4. Could it be a sticking solendoid or something in the valve body? So you are saying the not any 4R70W will work? That sucks if true.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by marc1971 View Post
So you are saying the not any 4R70W will work? That sucks if true.
Yes that's what he's saying. Same guts, different bellhousing. The problem with this transmission is that the bellhousings are integrated into the transmission itself; you cannot just swap the bellhousing to fit other engines like you can with other transmissions.

On the bright side, there are tons and tons of 3.8L mustangs out there...

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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With that being said. Will newer 3.8 mustang trannies work ok? Or should I consider a new tranny for the super coupe?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 11:25 PM
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Not sure when the 3.8 Rustang went to no VSS and the output shaft changed to not have the teeth to run the VSS.

Another possible source of the SBC bellhousing 4R70W is the 5.0 Explorer, 99-01. Make sure it is a 4R70W I think only the V6 got the 5 speed 5R55x.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 06:15 AM
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With regards to the VSS/OSS, you can swap your existing OSS and extension housing over to the new trans to keep your 7 tooth output shaft and existing VSS.

-Brandon
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc1971 View Post
Last week the transmission in my super coupe began acting up. It shifts into 1 and 2 just fine but wont go to 3 or 4. I have no clue what may be wrong. I have found a 4R70W from a 98 mustang gt. Would this be a direct bolt on replacement? Or would it not work? Should I try to fix the transmission I already have in there? Thanks for any and all advise.
Perhaps you have a bad accumulator piston, a valve body issue, or a sensor issue.

If the fluid is fine (not low & not burnt), I would drop the pan and valve body, and take a look. If you drop the pan and find a lot of metal, you may have serious clutch problems, but some fine metal sludge is normal.

About 10 years ago, my '94 LX stopped shifting from first to second. Knowing it would cost a small fortune to replace the trans, I dropped the pan & valve body to have a look. I'm an amateur, but "fearless" sometimes when messing with cars.

When I dropped the valve body, I could see the 1-2 accumulator piston was jammed almost sideways in its cylinder. It was a very easy fix.

While I had it open, I replaced all the accumulators/pistons, sensors, and rebuilt the valve body with a TransGo shift kit. TransGo included a video, and even a dumbazz like me could follow the instructions.

*** Important note: The Overdrive piston/servo has to engage with the O/D band.

This video shows you how to install the O/D servo, but you DON'T have to pull the trans from the car. This guy uses a special tool. I didn't use any special tools. I think I used a coat hanger.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjSyDCaW32s
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I will look into doing that. I am actually in automotive school right now and havent gotten to the transmission classes yet, which sucks. I can do most anything mechanical related, just need the motivation. I took it in to a local trans shop for diagnostic test. He said level was fine, had burnt smell to it. He said needed a total rebuild at a whopping cost of like $1700. Anyone have any suggestions on transmission that will fit this car that maybe I can get from salvage yard?
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 11:45 PM
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I've had several bad experiences with transmission shops. I really don't trust anything they say.

Obviously, I'm not a transmission expert. However, my understanding is that "burnt" fluid is NOT a death sentence for an automatic transmission. Burnt fluid may mean the fluid is waaaaay overdue for a change. It may not have been changed as needed, or it was never changed.

Your trans may only need a fluid change, and some replacement parts that are relatively easy to install. If I can do this without tech school training, you can do it. With good instructions, a chimpanzee could fix most things.

If you don't want to mess with rebuilding the valve body, you can buy a rebuilt valve body.

I had my trans shifting pretty hard with the shift kit changes I had made. When my daughter started driving my T-Bird, I put a stock valve body back in the car. I bought a rebuilt valve body from Transmission Exchange. It's been in the car for several years – with NO problems.

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 07:58 AM
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Generally yes, burnt fluid is not an immediate sign that the tranny is dead or in danger of immediate failure. It does mean the fluid has been overheating, and as a result the friction modifier additives have been "used up". This condition where the friction modifiers are no longer present is definitely bad because now all of a sudden the fluid isn't providing the correct friction coefficient for the clutches, which accelerates heat generation and wear.

In short, if a transmission is running on burnt or "used up" transmission fluid, you are wearing the clutches in the transmission much more quickly than normal.

Best way to avoid this? Keep the fluid cool and change it at the recommended interval.

http://tccoa.com/articles/tranny/tra...on/page5.shtml

BTW, AVOID the trans-go shift kits for the 4R70W. The ONLY acceptable shift-kid or modification is the J-mod, as documented on this site.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showpost.php...25&postcount=8

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theterminator93 View Post
Generally yes, burnt fluid is not an immediate sign that the tranny is dead or in danger of immediate failure. It does mean the fluid has been overheating, and as a result the friction modifier additives have been "used up". This condition where the friction modifiers are no longer present is definitely bad because now all of a sudden the fluid isn't providing the correct friction coefficient for the clutches, which accelerates heat generation and wear.

In short, if a transmission is running on burnt or "used up" transmission fluid, you are wearing the clutches in the transmission much more quickly than normal.

Best way to avoid this? Keep the fluid cool and change it at the recommended interval.

http://tccoa.com/articles/tranny/tra...on/page5.shtml

BTW, AVOID the trans-go shift kits for the 4R70W. The ONLY acceptable shift-kid or modification is the J-mod, as documented on this site.

http://forums.tccoa.com/showpost.php...25&postcount=8
+1 on the fluid change and keeping it cool.

My Exploder has torque converter shudder, I replaced the fluid with Merc V and the tranny never shifted better.....

~Rick

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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ok. So I just pulled the pan and found this odd looking part hanging around in the bottom of it. It is a round plastic piece with an oring around middle part of it and has a tiny shaft or peg on one end of it. I would post a pic but it wont let me. I am sure it is something that has fallen from the valve body. Can anyone help identify it?
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 11:18 AM
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ok. So I just pulled the pan and found this odd looking part hanging around in the bottom of it. It is a round plastic piece with an oring around middle part of it and has a tiny shaft or peg on one end of it. I would post a pic but it wont let me. I am sure it is something that has fallen from the valve body. Can anyone help identify it?
You might want to try uploading the picture somewhere else and posting the URL to it.
If TCCOA.com refuses to let you post URLS as text, leave out the http:// part.
Someone else can then drop it in as an inline image.

Approximate Dimensions along with your description would help. Is it bigger or smaller than a toaster?

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. I posted a pic of the unknown part. Maybe you guys can give me insight as you what it is. Thanks.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 11:35 AM
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Dipstick tube hole plug from the factory used during assembly to keep crud out. It means the pan has never been dropped before. Toss it.

-Brandon
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 09:50 PM
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BTW, AVOID the trans-go shift kits for the 4R70W. The ONLY acceptable shift-kid or modification is the J-mod, as documented on this site.
Thanks I'll keep the J-mod in mind. I've replaced the TransGo modified valve body with a rebuilt stock unit. The TransGo mods were fine with me, but I didn't have anything to compare against.

When my daughter started driving my T-Bird, I thought it would be best to put a stock valve body back in.
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